4.0 out of 5 stars
Delicious and tasteful, January 10, 2005
This review is from: A Matter of Taste (Hardcover)
I recently got this book as a gift, and I was utterly delighted by its contents. It is a departure from Lucy Waverman's earlier books, in its particular attention to more formal occasions rather than weekday meals, and thus filled a much needed niche in my cookbook collection.
Ms. Waverman has carefully created seasonal menus, some more general, others appropriate to particular occasions (Thanksgiving, Burns Night, Christmas, New Years, Passover, etc.), and James Chatto has paired these menus with wine suggestions. Dispersed throughout the book are informative discussions of particular aspects of matching food and drinks; decanting, sherry, or brining a turkey, etc.
When having company, it's nice to know that someone has done the worrying about wine and appetizers for you, and you can feel entirely safe in the steady hands of Waverman & Chatto. The food, while up-to-date, is not glaringly trendy (i.e. lemongrass and cilantro in everything) or dull (full flavoured, yes, but concussive, no). The wine suggestions are not unreasonable either; Chatto does not call for a specific vintner or vintage, but takes a more universal approach (he calls for a valipolicella classico, for instance, rather than a Masi Valpolicella classico, thus departing from the pattern of his Food & Wine recommendations).
The food is delicious, and the bits of information and history surrounding it make this a wonderful book to read as well as cook from; the photography decadent; the writing is the closest thing to Nigella Lawson's sumptuous prose we have in the Canadian market.
The onion tarts and the roast beef in a mustard-rosemary rub are my favourites so far - and the accompanying gravy is divine.
I have not given the book four stars only because it doesn't attain the diverse utility of a compendium like the Joy of Cooking. If, you desire a more basic cookbook, I'd direct you to Lucy's other books, or a Rachael Ray publication. Also, this book isn't really suitable for vegetarians.
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