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on June 21, 2014
Wear gloves, thin latex or nitrile or vinyl. Otherwise it will take a long time to erode off your hands.

Apply liberally. The instructions say to apply a thin coat, but this work is so tedious that I only want to have to do it once, so I went heavier than a thin coat.

Have enough Seam Grip. Unless you have a tiny tent, you'll need more than a tube. I used 2.5 tubes to do the rain fly for a family-sized tent with a 10x16' floor.

Observe the ventilation warnings. This stuff emits solvent, and if you're not careful you'll wake up with a headache and a tent cemented to your forehead.

Seal your seams well in advance of your trip date. This goo takes a while to apply, and at least overnight to cure. Don't do it the night before your trip.

Dust with talc. After it cures, Seam Grip is tacky and may stick to itself. I sprinkled talcum powder on an old sock and wiped down the sealed seams. Goodbye tack!
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on June 26, 2010
OK, i'll start off with the negative. Seam Grip is really smelly (has tolulene in it - think a strong smell like contact cement) and is very, very, very sticky. It has an 'oily' residue even after it's been initially wiped off that can stay on your skin for a week or so before it finally wears off. Once you open the tube it's really hard to completely re-seal it. I use a 2-layer piece of kitchen plastic-wrap over the opening and screw the cap on tightly then put it in the freezer. Honestly, when i prepare to use some Seam Grip i make sure i have enough projects set to use the whole tube - usually never a problem!!!

OK, now the positive:

1) It bonds very, very strongly
2) It makes a permanent, super-hard-wearing seal/coating on ALL porous fabrics (EXCEPT SIL-NYLON - McNett has a different product for that which works well)
- Seam Grip is especially useful with Cordura nylon/polyester type items (nearly every outdoor clothing item)
3) Is completely waterproof - making it PERFECT for sealing seams on tents, but i use it on camera bags, backpacks, etc - EVERYTHING!!!!

When Seam Grip dries, it's polyurethane composition is like a flexible, hard rubber. It is abrasion resistant while sealing out moisture and adhering fabrics together.

I use Seam Grip in the following ways:
1) sealing the seams on all my tents
2) putting on the bottom of every backpack, camera bag i own to seal out moisture and add an abrasion resistant coating on the bottom
3) permanently patching, repairing and sealing my Outdoors garments and equipment like a) gators/boot coverings b) g-tex coats/jackets/parkas/alpine bibs c) sole separation on leather hiking/mountaineering boots d) patching holes in plastic mountaineering boots (probably would work on ski boots too)

4) adds a "sticky" strip to self-inflating sleeping pads to help sleeping bags stay put when tent is on a slope

I usually buy 3-4 tubes at a time and when i get down to one tube i buy more to ensure i have it on-hand. There is always something that needs sealing, repairing or reinforcing and Seam Grip is my #1 go to fix-it.
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on April 17, 2015
This was enough to do a 8x8x7 foot tall tent. (Copper Canyon) This includes the rain fly and all interior seams along the sides and bottom of tent. After I did all seams I let it dry in my living room for a month and a half. It drys to a clear high gloss flexible finish. You must brush baby powder on all the seams or they will stick to each other. Even drying it out for 11/2 months the seams still stuck to the tent and each other after packing it up and then setting it up 2 days later. The sealed seams pulled apart ok but I don't know what would happen if it would have been packed away for a longer period. I vacuumed the excess baby powder off with a vacuum and soft bristle brush attachment. This powder turns the seams a flat finish with a slight tint of white which I think looked better than the clear high gloss. I haven't tried it out in the rain yet but I'm sure it will be fine. Also,seam seal in a well ventilated area or wear a respirator
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on March 14, 2010
I have used seamgrip for lots of stuff. Sealing bivys and tents. Patching holes in outer wear. Repairing wear on boot and just about anything else.

One thing to be careful of, it is difficult to manipulate. It comes out as a goo that is tacky. You will be tempted to use your fingers to manipulate it. Once on your hands or something you do not want it on, it can be very hard to get off and a small mess will become a big one quickly.

I found that WD40 cuts it very well before it sets up. If you get it on your fingers make sure NONE is under your fingernail. Even a thin layer can set up and take WEEKS to wear off. If it is under your fingernail... it will seamgrip your finger to the nail and you will get an infection. The stuff does NOT want to come off.

Great stuff, gives a good buzz too...
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on May 31, 2013
I had a few uses for this product so I purchased the big 8oz unit. I treated all the seams on my tent and my hiking boots with this product as well as some rain pants I use when riding my motorcycle.

The good:
It works very well. I squeeze a golf ball size blob of it into a small yogurt cup and use one of those small metal handle paint brushes to apply it to the material I want to seal. This works well as the seamgrip product dries slowly allowing me to work for an hour or more at a time.

The not so good:
Seamgrip dries very slowly, requiring that the tent (if you're sealing tent seams) must remain setup overnight, and preferably 24 hours or longer, to allow the product to fully cure. There is an accelerant (Cotol-240) which will speed this up greatly. However the Cotol-240 is not easy to work with and it is fairly expensive when you consider the small amount you get.
The second issue with seamgrip is that it dries very shinny, so if you put it on your rain gear you'll see the seams from a mile away. Well, rain gear isn't supposed to be a fashion statement anyway. If you can get to the inside of clothing seams that would be the better place to apply the seamgrip and you won't have the fashion issue to deal with.

Conclusion:
Buy the big tube if you have lots of waterproofing to do or if you know you'll use it often, like at least once every month. The reason for this is that seamgrip will harden in the tube's opening, making it difficult or impossible to use a second time if you wait too long and allow too much of the product to harden in the tube. I've only used seamgrip recently so I can't vouch for its long term effectiveness, however, in the short term the product remains flexible and remains attached to material when folded up and opened up many times.
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on May 26, 2014
I just applied it on the "cheap found it in the trash texsport tent". I needed to do this to find out all the do's and don'ts. If you like fumes, you are going to love applying this stuff; however, if you don't get a fume filtering 3M mask or the like when applying this stuff (this is not something that you are going to do in a large excavated living room.) Use a small 1/2 inch stiff bristled brush when applying to get the stuff in the cracks and crannies. The sealer has no problems sticking to the fabric tent material, but the plastic tarp floor stuff is another story. If someone has the time, one could get a small scouring pad, or something of the like and really rough up that tarp material for better adherence of the sealant, but not too much as to disrupt the integrity of the material. Not sure, might try later. If you just apply the sealant as is on the tarp material, then it will eventually peel or rub off.
How does the sealant work on the fabric material. LIKE A BOSS!!! I wish they made a product that would water proof the tent like it does. Camp dry is OK, but . . . I took a garden hose and blasted the seams after they were all dry, not one drop!!!!!!!!!!! Mind you, this is not a top of the line tent too. Not gonna lie, this stuff will make your tent look ugly afterwards, so if your into lookin' pretty out there this might not be what you need. I suppose if you only apply to the inside of the tent it might give your tent a better appearance. I applied it to both inside and outside BTW.
In my quest for waterproofing my tent, I stumbled on a review/blog/post where some guy was just laughing at all of us for doing what we do with the sealants/ sprays/ goops/ what-have-ya's, he posted just use a tarp and cover the whole tent and your done. I like the idea, but have yet to explore the action. Good luck y'all.

Oh yea, buy some talc powder. After this stuff dries, it likes to stick to itself, rub talc on all the applied sites to prevent this. I didn't have any, so I used all purpose flour. Not sure if that was a good idea or not at this time.
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on March 2, 2015
Go for the 8oz. I figure I used at least an once just sealing a bivy. But it definitely works as expected, no complaints!

As a side note: I may have been lazy and largely used my finger to apply along the seams.... don't do that. WEAR GLOVES. It was on my hands for days. And it is a similar material to an eraser. Took me too long to figure out why I was smudging everything.
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on December 24, 2012
After years of use and many projects, especially PU coated nylon tarps, Seam Grip is my favorite for long-term dependable sealing and repair. Makes tough, flexible waterproof repairs. Rips are easy to fix and stronger than the fabric (or rubber). I worried that fabric waves would not straighten out but that is no problem. Store partially used tubes in a freezer to prevent drying. The sealer never freezes and is always ready to use for years. Project drying takes several hours and is still very sticky. If it is shiny, it is sticky. Before moving anything apply a small amount of Baby Powder to eliminate all problems of sticking. Unlike other sealers, this is a "one-time" application. Use small brushes to apply the sealer. Brush out to avoid waste and keep brush close to your work to avoid drips and "strings". The screw-on applicator brush with the small tubes is too wasteful. Latex or nitrile gloves also work good, such as inside boots. Just avoid bare finger applications because of a fast drying effect. Good ventilation is important. Although hazardous, gasoline works good for clean-up of skin and brushes. I use this product often and the 8oz. tube is a great deal.
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on November 3, 2015
For repairing leaks in waders, you can't do better than this. It can be messy to work with and takes a long time to cure (8-12 hours) unless you use an accelerator, but it absolutley does the job. Sticks tenacoiusly and permenently to the waterproof-breathable fabric in waders and the neoprene in wader's stocking feet. Super flexible so it will bend any way you need it too, and it will not peel off. Just make sure you clean the area you are applying it to (isopropyl alcohol works great) before you apply it. Keep your work as level as you can at least until it sets a bit (about an hour, maybe less). You don't need to use much, either. Just a thin coating will generally do the job. Naturally, it is great for lots of other sealing and repair uses, too, but I mostly use it to repair my waders. I really like getting it in an 8 oz tube, too. Way more economical than the 1 oz ones you have to pay around $8 for. Just make sure you store the unused portion in your freezer so it won't harden in the tube on you.
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on August 20, 2014
I followed the instructions exactly and even gave it an extra day to cure. It felt tacky but not sticky, but when I folded the tent and fly up, the Seam Grip stuck to itself very strongly. When I opened up the tent and fly to set them up, the seams had stuck together. I pulled them apart as gently as I could, but the Seam Grip stretched the seams apart and ripped the tape off of the previously taped seams. I've used other seam sealers on other tents with no problem whatsoever in this regard. My tent is now significantly less waterproof than it was before I put the Seam Grip on, and I will have to replace the tent if I want to camp in wet weather again. Additionally, this product leaves a very sticky residue on your hands that takes days to wear off.

This was a huge disappointment, a waste of time, unpleasant to use, and ultimately very costly in that it ruined my tent.
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