Two Meatballs in the Italian Kitchen (Hardcover)

by Pino Luongo (Author), Mark Strausman (Author), Christopher Hirsheimer (Photographer)

Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly
Starred Review. In this delightful book, Luongo and Strausman, friends and restaurateurs in Manhattan, put a personal spin on the divide between cuisine from Italy and the American variety. Each chapter opens with lengthy back-and-forths between the two over the merits of certain ingredients or cooking methods, and their disagreements over these specifics is as edifying as they are amusing to read; the recipes aren't all simple, but with Luongo and Strausman's vocal observations and tips close at hand, those familiar with Italian cooking techniques should have no trouble mastering them. Luongo's loyalties to his native Tuscany show in recipes such as Garfagnana Bean and Apple Soup and Sausage and Cranberry Beans with Polenta, though he also refers to many of Italy's other regions in his focus on authenticity. Strausman defends his Americanized vision of Italian food with dishes both old-fashioned (Chicken Parmigiana) and chicly modern in flavor (Carrot and Ricotta Ravioli). The indispensable chapter of meatballs and meatloaf crystallizes their disagreements, as Luongo defends small, flavor-packed meatballs with unusual ingredients like amaretto cookies, mostly served on their own, and Strausman advocates the plump kind Americans serve atop spaghetti and tomato sauce. Cooks interested in the distinctions between regional Italian specialties yet still fond of the American versions they grew up with will savor almost every recipe in this spirited book. (Oct.)
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Review
In this delightful book, Luongo and Strausman, friends and restaurateurs in Manhattan, put a personal spin on the divide between cuisine from Italy and the American variety. Each chapter opens with lengthy back-and-forths between the two over the merits of certain ingredients or cooking methods, and their disagreements over these specifics is as edifying as it is amusing to read; the recipes aren ?t all simple, but with Luongo and Strausman ?s vocal observations and tips close at hand, those familiar with Italian cooking techniques should have no trouble mastering them. Luongo ?s loyalties to his native Tuscany show in recipes such as Garfagnana Bean and Apple Soup and Sausage and Cranberry Beans with Polenta, though he also refers to many of Italy ?s other regions in his focus on authenticity. Strausman defends his Americanized vision of Italian food with dishes both old-fashioned (Chicken Parmigiana) and chicly modern in flavor (Carrot and Ricotta Ravioli). The indispensable chapter of meatballs and meatloaf crystallizes their disagreements, as Luongo defends small, flavor-packed meatballs with unusual ingredients like amaretto cookies, mostly served on their own, and Strausman advocates the plump kind Americans serve atop spaghetti and tomato sauce. Cooks interested in the distinctions between regional Italian specialties yet still fond of the American versions they grew up with will savor almost every recipe in this spirited book. Publishers Weekly (Publishers Weekly )

In this delightful book, Luongo and Strausman, friends and restaurateurs in Manhattan, put a personal spin on the divide between cuisine from Italy and the American variety. Each chapter opens with lengthy back-and-forths between the two over the merits of certain ingredients or cooking methods, and their disagreements over these specifics is as edifying as it is amusing to read; the recipes aren’t all simple, but with Luongo and Strausman’s vocal observations and tips close at hand, those familiar with Italian cooking techniques should have no trouble mastering them. Luongo’s loyalties to his native Tuscany show in recipes such as Garfagnana Bean and Apple Soup and Sausage and Cranberry Beans with Polenta, though he also refers to many of Italy’s other regions in his focus on authenticity. Strausman defends his Americanized vision of Italian food with dishes both old-fashioned (Chicken Parmigiana) and chicly modern in flavor (Carrot and Ricotta Ravioli). The indispensable chapter of meatballs and meatloaf crystallizes their disagreements, as Luongo defends small, flavor-packed meatballs with unusual ingredients like amaretto cookies, mostly served on their own, and Strausman advocates the plump kind Americans serve atop spaghetti and tomato sauce. Cooks interested in the distinctions between regional Italian specialties yet still fond of the American versions they grew up with will savor almost every recipe in this spirited book.
—Publishers Weekly (Publishers Weekly )

See all Editorial Reviews

Product Details

• Hardcover: 320 pages
• Publisher: Artisan; illustrated edition edition (September 12, 2007)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1579653456
• ISBN-13: 978-1579653453
• Product Dimensions: 10 x 8.1 x 1.1 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2.8 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.9 out of 5 stars See all reviews (12 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #84,550 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

16 of 16 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Don't be fooled; these are fantastic chefs who care about 'home cooking', November 15, 2007

By	Jesse Kornbluth "Head Butler" (New York) - See all my reviews (TOP 50 REVIEWER)    (REAL NAME)

My wife worked for Pino Luongo for years and years.

Mark Strausman cooked our wedding dinner.

And now, burdened by this long collaboration and friendship, I'm going to try to convince you of a proposition you may find extremely unlikely: This is the most practical --- and certainly the most fun --- Italian cookbook out there.

Let's start with the fun. These guys, as the title almost suggests, are goofballs who will fight with one another over just about anything. Start with meatballs. Luongo insists they should be pan-fried in olive oil, "only occasionally served with tomato sauce and never on the same plate as spaghetti." Strausman wouldn't dream of cooking them that way. For him, meatballs are to be simmered in tomato sauce and invariably to be served over pasta.

And they have their reasons --- just ask them. In one of the dialogues that launch each section, Luongo and Strausman explore the philosophical depths of their disagreement. Here's a highly abridged version:

Strausman: I like the sense of abundance you get with a big, juicy meatball.

Luongo: But the proportion is all off.

Strausman: Is the dish too humble for you? Oh, I forgot: You were born in northern Italy, wearing an ascot.

Luongo: What you're talking about has no basis in Italian tradition.

Strausman: Meatballs are all about the meat. Italian-Americans came to this country with nothing, and as soon as they could afford to buy meat, however inexpensive, they created big, juicy meatballs.

Luongo: Yes, you put raw balls of meat into tomato sauce and cook them long enough to suck all the juices out of the meat.

Who wins? You do. "A cook-off is in order --- let the reader decide," Strausman proclaims. And so you can. And you can also go on to cook Mark's mom's meat loaf, Pino's meat loaf, Pino's fresh pasta with meatballs and mushrooms, Mark's turkey meatballs in spicy tomato sauce and Pino's meatballs with amaretti.

In short, two books in one.

Well, one, actually, for Pino Luongo and Mark Strausman are really brothers separated at birth. Luongo may be one of New York's most successful restaurateurs --- his establishments have included Le Madri, Coco Pazzo, Tuscan Square and Centolire --- but he remains the son of a loving Italian mother. Strausman may have been at the helm of some of Manhattan's most satisfying restaurant's --- he now is chef of Fred's at Barneys New York and Coco Pazzo --- but he too is a kid from the old neighborhood. It's just that Luongo's from Tuscany and Strausman's from a working-class neighborhood in Queens. One's tall, one's short. One's Catholic, one's Jewish. Otherwise, no difference.

What Luongo and Strausman agree on is all that ultimately matters: "The simplest food is best." That's why more than a third of this book is given over to pasta recipes --- hey, it's what you like. Fish? A few recipes, mostly for the grill. Meat? A hearty Tuscan pot roast, ribs (no baby back for Strausman!), even pork chops. There's an entire section on --- gasp! --- Italian-American cooking: veal and chicken parmigiana, sausage and peppers, the dishes you find on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. Because Sunday is for family, there's a section on hearty meals. As a sop to modernity, there are nine vegetable recipes. And in the short dessert section, the range goes from "ugly but good" cookies to pears in vin santo with sweet polenta.

This is not, the authors emphasize, a book for readers. It's for daily cooks, people who need to set dinner on the table for their families. Old-fashioned? Try this: They see nothing wrong with serving chicken every Tuesday, pasta every Wednesday, just as it was when the authors were kids.

So okay, these are boys who never grew up. But they're hardly prisoners of their childhoods. They're keepers of the flame, protectors of the idea that "sometimes the best dish for the moment is the one that makes you forget about your problems and brings back happy memories of times past." Amen.

9 of 9 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Inspiring!, October 1, 2007

By	shast "shast" (New York NY) - See all my reviews

This is the best kind of cookbook -- one that combines amazing, delicious recipes, easy to follow instructions and lots of helpful hints with amusing anecdotes and fascinating back-stories. Of course you'll find new versions of Italian classics, but I was interested to see that they included really fabulous-sounding grilling recipes too.
I have already tried Pino's Baked Penne and Mark's Spaghetti which I've had at Barneys and I'm happy to duplicate at home. I think it might be fun to do a meatball cookoff to see which of these chef's meatball recipes my own family prefers.
I definitely recommend this cookbook!

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars THE gift for everyone on my holiday list!, October 14, 2007

By	toymagnet (New York, NY) - See all my reviews

This is such a great cookbook, even if you don't make the recipes! It's a fun and interesting read for anyone interested in Italian food. I made the Farro and Bean Soup Lucca-style this weekend, and it was easy and delicious. Next weekend I'll tackle the meatballs, if I can decide which recipe to try first!

I've been eating in these guys' restaurants for years, so it's great to get a peek into their dynamic. Highly recommended!