The development of the upper garment, known as the kurta, probably began in the nineteenth century and it is, at present, a popular garment among men of Rajasthan. The length and girth of the kurta may both vary from region to region and it can be tailored in a variety of styles.
The kalidar kurta is made up of several geometrical pieces. It has two rectangular central panels in the back and the front. The width of these panels is equal to the shoulder size and the length varies from above the thigh to below the knees. Four, flared-side panels called kali, are attached on either side of the central panels. Their shape is roughly triangular, narrow at the top and wider at the bottom to achieve the desired fullness. This ensures a snug fit around the chest which lends the lower part a loose-flared fall. Comfort is further emphasized by deep slits at the side seam. The sleeves, which are generally full-length, are also rectangular. They are cut square at the top and the armholes are set somewhat deep. Small triangular gussets are inserted under the arms and the sleeves taper very slightly towards the wrist. The neck of the kurta is usually round; although it may sometimes also have a Chinese collar and most garments have a side pocket. The centre front-opening has a placket with buttons and buttonholes as closures. Sometimes, buttonholes are made on both sides of the placket, into which are inserted silver or gold buttons, which are held together by ornamental chains.
