Customer Reviews

Mike Lawrence's Workbook on the Two

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Mike Lawrence's version of 2/1 is a bit different from Max Hardys. The book explains the differences and why the choices were made. Whats especially nice is the author discusses both views on a topic, rather than just presenting his choice.

Just a few of the major differences -

a) This version uses Strong Jump Shifts, but not the kind you think, there are 3 types and they dont all promise 19 points like the old ones.

b) 1 Diamond - 2 Clubs is forcing to 2NT or 3 of a minor rather than game a la Hardy

c) 2/1 is 95% game forcing, but may end up in 4 of a minor if 3NT is unsuitable

d) 1 Heart - 2 Clubs - 2 Hearts doesn't show 6 Hearts. It shows 5 with no other rebid

The justification for these choices is explained.

2/1 is more complex than Standard American. There are many bids with fairly precise meanings and you nee to know them if you are to use the system to its full effectiveness. The book discusses the rules and then elaborates on them with lots of bidding problems (given the hands and the auction). Compared to the Hardy book this gives a fuller more integrated system.

Example:

What is the difference bewteen 1 Spade - 2 Spades and 1 Spade - 1NT - 2 Clubs - 2 Spades?

The former is showing a better hand. The later can have 3 Spades but will then have a bad 6-7 points.

I strongly recommend buying the 2/1 CD as well as it covers the material as well as adding a lot of newer competitive and constructive bidding conventions and has 125 quizzes.

The only negative is I think it would be helpful to have a list of bidding rules. I went through Mike Lawrences 2/1 CD and thsi book and took 9 pages of system notes. These helped me to learn and remember the 2/1 system. If you are unfamiliar with 2/1 it may be hard to learn the system from this book because the "rules" are never formally stated, they are hinted at. The way I learned 2/1 was to do Mike Lawrences 2/1 CD, then read this book, then read UncOntested Auctions. (And I still dont feel entirely comfortable with the sysytem). 2/1 is complex. If you and your partner don't know the system well you will noty get that much extra out of it, and you will suffer some costly mistakes.

Stay away from 2/1 unless you and partner are willing to invest a lot of time. I like 2/1 and feel it was worth the effort.

In Standard American bidding a 2:1 bid is a one round force. In 2:1 it is forcing to game. Two versions of 2:1 exist. One by Mike Lawrence and one by Max Hardy. The Max Hardy version is almost a 100% game force. The Mike Lawrence version has many sequences that are not forcing to game. This book explains them all but it often gets difficult to read and you have to remember which sequences are not forcing when you actually use his system while playing bridge. I prefer the Max Hardy version of 2:1. If you are trying to play the Mike Lawrence version of 2:1 then this is the best book to read. For the Max Hardy Version of 2:1 I suggest Bridge In The 21st Century.

If you are not a bridge player and were thinking of learning the game this book would be too difficult to read.

This book gives lots of examples of 2 over 1 auctions and covers many of the options for handling different situations. As such it is good for tuning your bidding but less so as a first book for learning 2 over 1. I suppose that is fine, given that it is called a "Workbook". I find that it lacks the clear and careful explanations of the reasoning behind choices that is present in Lawrence's other books. That said, this is well worth it if you view it primarily as a workbook.