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Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages [Hardcover]

Anne Mendelson
4.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)


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Book Description

October 7, 2008
Part cookbook—with more than 120 enticing recipes—part culinary history, part inquiry into the evolution of an industry, Milk is a one-of-a-kind book that will forever change the way we think about dairy products.

Anne Mendelson, author of Stand Facing the Stove, first explores the earliest Old World homes of yogurt and kindred fermented products made primarily from sheep’s and goats’ milk and soured as a natural consequence of climate. Out of this ancient heritage from lands that include Greece, Bosnia, Turkey, Israel, Persia, Afghanistan, and India, she mines a rich source of culinary traditions.

Mendelson then takes us on a journey through the lands that traditionally only consumed milk fresh from the cow—what she calls the Northwestern Cow Belt (northern Europe, Great Britain, North America). She shows us how milk reached such prominence in our diet in the nineteenth century that it led to the current practice of overbreeding cows and overprocessing dairy products. Her lucid explanation of the chemical intricacies of milk and the simple home experiments she encourages us to try are a revelation of how pure milk products should really taste.

The delightfully wide-ranging recipes that follow are grouped according to the main dairy ingredient: fresh milk and cream, yogurt, cultured milk and cream, butter and true buttermilk, fresh cheeses. We learn how to make luscious Clotted Cream, magical Lemon Curd, that beautiful quasi-cheese Mascarpone, as well as homemade yogurt, sour cream, true buttermilk, and homemade butter. She gives us comfort foods such as Milk Toast and Cream of Tomato Soup alongside Panir and Chhenna from India. Here, too, are old favorites like Herring with Sour Cream Sauce, Beef Stroganoff, a New Englandish Clam Chowder, and the elegant Russian Easter dessert, Paskha. And there are drinks for every season, from Turkish Ayran and Indian Lassis to Batidos (Latin American milkshakes) and an authentic hot chocolate.

This illuminating book will be an essential part of any food lover’s collection and is bound to win converts determined to restore the purity of flavor to our First Food.


Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

In a recipe book that is part cultural critique and part culinary history, Mendelson (Stand Facing the Stove) reaps nearly 400 fascinating pages from that most elemental of ingredients. Yet the story of dairy is perhaps not quite so surprising as the title suggests--it's more or less the story of all industrialized food production through the last century, in which the flavor and quality of natural foods have been subjugated to dietary concerns, food safety and the sheer volume needed for mass consumption. As a result, Mendelson argues, the product most Americans call milk bears very little resemblance to what initially spurts from the cow's udder. Mendelson exhaustively traces milk production and consumption back to 6000 B.C. and through the Middle East, India and Europe, where milch animals were first herded and bred. The final two-thirds of the book are divided into chapters devoted to fresh milk and cream; yogurt; cultured milk and cream; butter, true buttermilk and fresh cheese, each with traditional recipes from around the world. Aspiring cheese makers will find some basic science, and the eclectic recipes (such as French Vichyssoise, Turkish Ayran and Eastern European Kugel) are reliable and detailed. Mendelson is optimistic that a brighter future for dairying lies in the rise of small farm operations--a future in which more consumers can share her obvious passion for the product. (Oct.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

From Booklist

Whether or not it’s “nature’s perfect food,” the milk people buy at the supermarket has been processed, heated, deconstructed, and its parts reassembled in ways that consumers have been persuaded are good for them. The twin developments of pasteurization and refrigeration began this, abetted by advances in dairy-cow husbandry and transportation. Tuberculosis and other pathogens have virtually disappeared from the milk supply, but at the expense of milk’s native flavors. Moreover, mechanical separation of milk into its constituent fats, sugars, and proteins has flooded the market with all manner of fluid milks, each claiming some health benefit depending on the nutritional fad of the moment. Mendelson reminds that virtually no one today knows what milk really tastes like. To help people nevertheless enjoy available milk, she presents a host of recipes featuring milk, from milk toast through rice pudding. She includes exotica such as India’s panir cheese, Mexico’s dulce de leche, and a home method for producing English clotted cream. --Mark Knoblauch

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 352 pages
  • Publisher: Knopf (October 7, 2008)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1400044103
  • ISBN-13: 978-1400044108
  • Product Dimensions: 7 x 1.4 x 9.5 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.6 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 4.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #677,979 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Beware: You will get cravings reading this book! Lawrence Pugliares  |  1 reviewer made a similar statement
If you have the interest, this book will reward, in kind. Todd Ondick  |  1 reviewer made a similar statement
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
12 of 12 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Delicious Book! April 28, 2009
Format:Hardcover
I loved this book from start to finish. It would have been easy for her to pick sides in a raw-milk argument or something like that, but instead she just promotes the pros of real, fresh milk.
The history section as well as the section about the modern milk industry were very interesting, but the recipe sections, complete with "milk experiments" takes the reader on a truly delicious adventures. Start with the Lemon Sponge Pudding!
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7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars The title says everything.... June 22, 2009
By Cec
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase
I bought this book for the recipes (which I haven't tried yet) but to my surprise, I am REALLY finding the historical content fascinating. It's well-written and witty; the author has a lovely sense of humor that comes out in her writing. I highly recommend this book to anyone who wants a good read about what life has been like for the past 10,000 years, told from the everyday perspective of our relationship with our herd animals and customs over many years. After reading this book I'll be a lot braver about trying some "odd" yogurts and cheeses! (Water Buffalo cream cheese, anyone?)
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5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
I found this book a delightful and inviting journey into the natural history of the human relationship with, and creation of, the domestic milk animal and their amazing gift to us!

Read it if you want to learn something new about milk and the animals with whom we have intertwined our lives. Mendelson has done an outstanding job of telling what could otherwise be a tedious tale with wit, verve, and a healthy dose of remarkable details. Keep reading if you want to play and experiment with some of the myriad foods created using milk as a primary ingredient from around the globe.

This is not an easy read, but a rather enjoyable one! Mendelson's prose is vivid and stimulating, but requires some work on the reader's part. If you have the interest, this book will reward, in kind.

This book could have been used as a soapbox, pushing for a certain agenda- promoting milk that is raw, unpasteurized, organic, grass-fed, unhomogenized, or from a specific animal. On the contrary, Mendelson describes the differences while promoting personal exploration. Seek out the variations and try them for yourself; what a novel idea! She appears rather reluctant to endorse a milk genre, though she does voice her opinions and notes the detriment of certain processes on taste and culinary suitability. For me, this was the critical piece in enjoying this book; Mendelson wants to share a fascination and love for milk, no strings attached! What a wonderful read!
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars very interesting
This book starts out with the history of milch animals and how important these animals were to the development of civilization. Read more
Published on August 21, 2010 by M. Lang
4.0 out of 5 stars As much a living fluid as blood. Think about it. The first time maybe...
years ago that a person considered that which comes out of another of another species could be used as a food source. This first occurred in the mid-east, perhaps Iran or Eurasia. Read more
Published on July 23, 2010 by JOHN GODFREY
4.0 out of 5 stars Good History Book
I bought this for its historical element; the recipes are a nice bonus. The narrative takes up about the first half of the book, and that is well researched and written. Read more
Published on April 5, 2010 by Suellen Kolbo
3.0 out of 5 stars Interesting but short because of the recipes
This book was a pretty quick read, because half of it is recipes involving milk, cheese, and other milk products. Read more
Published on September 23, 2009 by M. Godon
3.0 out of 5 stars Somewhat sour milk
I'm a lover of all things dairy and a whole book dedicated to milk made me ecstatic. Unfortunately, this book was something I had to plod through. Read more
Published on June 11, 2009 by LBB
5.0 out of 5 stars Great resource for the home cook.
I have been collecting butter recipes from old cookbooks and the internet for years and have found this book to be a wonderful resource. Read more
Published on May 18, 2009 by Kristi M.
1.0 out of 5 stars Sour Milk
I am a milk lover and expected an interesting an favorable travel through the history of milk -- such Peter Kaminsky's Pig Perfect did for ham and pork, or the ones on Cod or... Read more
Published on February 1, 2009 by Donald B. Harris
5.0 out of 5 stars Milk: the surprising story of milk through the ages
Great book- loved the recipes. One I will keep referring to as I will experiment with the recipes from all over the world.
Published on January 19, 2009 by Kerry Van Wiltenburg
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent and creamy!
Beautiful! Part cookbook, part history text....I love it - simple yet ingenious.
Beware: You will get cravings reading this book!
Published on January 15, 2009 by Lawrence Pugliares
3.0 out of 5 stars Great Information, Not an Easy Read
The book was interesting, but was not an easy read. It was like a college level textbook. The writing style was dry and academic so it satisfied my desire to learn about the... Read more
Published on December 28, 2008 by Joe Horn
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