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4.5 out of 5 stars39
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10 of 11 people found the following review helpful
on October 16, 2014
I am happy with the fit and finish of the Moog part, but time will tell. I am mostly an OEM parts type of guy and I'm really picky about repair parts in general.

Anyway, I thought I would give a couple of pointers to those installing this Pitman Arm on GM vehicles. I remove the skid plate and sway bar (good time to check/replace the bushings while you are there). This gives you plenty of room to work. The challenge replacing the pitman arm is that there is a cross member on GM trucks and SUV's that prevent you from using a standard pitman arm puller. Even if you can get a puller on there many times they are stuck so tight that the puller will break. Some sites are advising people to remove the entire steering box to get a puller on there, big time waster. Or use heat, a torch, etc. and your steering box seals will be destroyed. I don't do any of that.

I use a cutoff wheel on an air grinder and CAREFULLY make a cut on the side of the pitman arm opposite the actual arm at a 45 degree angle almost through the pitman arm. You could also use an electric 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel if you don't have a pneumatic like this:

I make the cut at a 45 degree angle so that the wheel has more clearance and less chance of hitting the steering box. Do this very slowly, you are trying to make a cut that comes within about 1/8" inch from the internal splines on the steering box without touching them. Take your time, really take you time, you don't want to buy a new steering box. Did I say take your time?:) When the cut is made take a large chisel and put it in the cut. Then smack it really hard with a mini-sledge. That will crack the rest of the pitman arm steel along the cut line. Then just hold the chisel at a downward angle and tap the pitman off. Even taking your time this is easily done in 15 min. There are plenty of stories of people spending hours trying to do this job. Then put just a light coat of water proof grease on the steering box splines for reassembly and you're done. I hope this helps.
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7 of 8 people found the following review helpful
on March 15, 2010
2006 Chevy Silverado CCSB 2500HD LBZ Z71 These parts wear out fast if you have bigger than stock tires and aftermarket wheel offsets make it worse. Moog quality is unsurpassed and I have never been disappointed by their products. A lifetime warranty makes it all better. Sure you can get parts at autozone, but you cant get moog and you cant get a better price than Amazon. I checked everywhere and even my Napa guy giving me the military, shop, large account, and buddy discount could not come close to the price on Amazon. Just wish I had ordered the Pitman arm puller at the same time, was $45 at said napa, which I returned after use. I was able to replace the Idle arm, Idle bracket, pitman arm and add the cognito kit all in my driveway on jackstands in less than 2 hours with hand tools only. Did not even have the correct size wrench for the pitman arm, a 12" crescent got it done.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
on November 2, 2014
Quality part not a fake... If you plan to replace this yourself be prepared to spend some time, the old one will not give in. Be sure to have a heavy duty puller, a serious cheater bar and some time. So if you need to replace this go out now and spray some penetrating oil on it right now. Not WD40 but some quality penetrating oil. I'll wait while you do that... This is one of the hardest part I have removed from various vehicles and I always want to get the torch out and cut it off. So be paitent use penetrating oil, take the time crank the puller until you think it will break. If you can manage while the pulleris mounted and it seems at max pull tap/hit the old pitman arm around where it mounts, this does help. On my H2 I had to drop the steering gear box, equaling very little leverage. It took a couple hours of beating and cranking and spraying and I noticed it slipped a 1/16 now it was on. Some friends watching the mayhem thought I was sure to have seriuos injuries from the force on the wrench and cheater bar and they were surprised nothing broke and equally surprised when it gave in. Good luck...
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
on October 12, 2009
Much heavier duty than the stock part. Mine went out at 45000 but I am running 37" tires so it accelerated wear on the front end. GMC Sierra 2500HD 2006
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
on December 26, 2014
After 168k on my 2007 Classic 2500HD 4x4 Crew, my Pitman and Idler were too loose for an alignment. I decided to replace the inner/outer tierods and upper/lower ball joints at the same time, all Moog. The Pitman/Idler/tierods took about 3 hours with me having no previous experience doing this. There is a crossmember that prevented me from putting the Autozone puller on, but I found a much easier solution. Take a small angle grinder (I used a die grinder with a cutting wheel) and cut to within 1/8" of the spline, it took about 10 min. Then use an air hammer or chisel to split the metal. The Pitman then fell off, less than 15 min total effort and no need to move the steering box or bust your knuckles.

The inner tie rods are tough to get off with the center link still attached. Since I was replacing the Idler too, I went ahead and popped both off, disconnected the dampler, and removed the center link. Then it was a breeze to replace the tie rods with the center in my bench vice. I measured the distance from the back of the tie rod nut to the center of the zerg fitting on the tie rods and adjusted the new rods to match this length (about 15" both sides), and my steering was straight enough to drive in for an alignment -- actually it pulled less than before the repairs.

The hardest part of the whole job were the balljoints, those took the next afternoon and a really big breaker bar.

I see a lot of people asking about 3 vs 4 spline. Mine was 3 spline and it's easy to see if you push up the bearing cup above the pitman arm, you should just be able to see the splines. From what I read, 4 splines are only on the 1500s and maybe vans.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
on May 28, 2013
These things last at least twice as long as the stock pitman arm. I use this with the cognito brace kit and have been really happy.
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on November 23, 2015
Quality of the product is fine.
2003 3/4 ton duramax
Would just like to mention that the GM service manual says to change this part with the steering box on the bench, and after doing it with the steering box in the truck, I would recommend you pay someone to change it. Using a Lisle brand pitman puller, I let my 600 ft-lbs impact hammer for upwards of 15 minutes before I took the smallest cutting wheel I could find and cut as deep as I could into the arm. Even then the impact struggled to get the arm off. Not to mention that K-member is directly under the retaining nut so loosening 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the box to the frame and rotating it is the only way to get a socket on that nut; even then it is not on squarely. 6+ hour job with a small fortune in tools.
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on June 5, 2013
My 1500HD did not pass inspection due to a worn pitman and idler arm. The shop wanted $450 to replace. Ended up coming to Amazon and bought the pitman, idler arm, and idler arm bracket for much less. Took about 3 hours to change, which included taking the steering box off, because I couldn't get the pitman arm off. I also installed the Cognito kit to strengthen the whole steering up.

Wow what a difference this made, now the truck does not wander all over the road. I thought it was the crappy tires I put on. It turned out the new arms made all the difference.

These Moog parts seem much sturdier than stock and are cheaper when bought on Amazon.
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on June 18, 2015
Best price on the net, quality part, and straight forward installation. You will need a pitman arm puller, don't waist your time making cuts and wacking it. I wasted a lot of time thinking that was the easiest route. All I did was remove the three bolts to the steering box, pushed it back, and with the puller removed the old one. All this was done in drive way. I also replaced idler arm and support bracket.
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on April 25, 2014
This part comes to you more sturdy than the OEM one that comes stock on a 2005 H2 Hummer. OEM part snapped during 4x4 trip in mountains very scary when you cant steer your vehicle when its moving. Ordered this part got to me rather quickly which was appreciated. Fairly simple to install but an alignment is needed after installation to ensure proper tire wear.
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