Customer Reviews

Moog K80055 Control Arm with Ball Joint

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This is a quality part, but it does not have a MOOG balljoint. That is unless MOOG makes balljoints for TRW. This balljoint clearly says TRW on it's clear silicone dust boot, just like the OEM Ford part. The forged casting also has TRW cast into it, just like the factory Ford part. No zerk fitting, which is completely ridiculous. This is a Ford part, plain and simple. Probably has the low-friction OEM design balljoint in which Ford feels no servicing is necessary. Yeah, right...that's why I'm changing the originals on my barely 100,000 mile Thunderbird. Not an isolated incident either, 89-97 Thunderbirds are notorious for balljoint and bushing problems. Check TCCOA dot com for proof of this.

The box it comes in is covered with false advertising showing exploded views of MOOG's superior balljoint technology, and then the part in the box is a TRW piece! Also be nice if they would paint the rubber bushing's metal housing, since it's bare steel which will rust immediately unless you live in a desert type terrain. Still made in USA atleast. This exact same part sells at Kragen for $129.99! The only other quality aftermarket alternative to this MOOG part is the Raybestos unit, which I could not find any detailed information on. Amazon's super saver shipping beat Rockauto's out the door price. Bottom line, don't put cheap balljoints on your car. Buy a trusted brand like MOOG (or whatever they feel fit to rebox), OEM, or Raybestos. Read about the horror stories of knock-off chinese suspension parts on TCCOA dot com!

I ordered and installed the left and right arms for my '96 Thunderbird, as well as a complete set of Ford strut rod bushings. There were absolutely no issues with fit.

There are a couple of things you should know about these arms, however:

1. A new nut is supplied, but it is NOT a castle nut w/cotter pin as you may read elsewhere about Moog arms. The one included in both the USA and Canadian labeled boxes is known as the prevailing torque type (crown lock) -- the Amazon photo is correct.
These nuts are difficult to install if the new ball joint's taper is not seated tightly -- the ball joint will just twist in its cup as you turn the nut. Do not discard your old non-torque nuts! The best method I've found is to use those old nuts to seat the taper very firmly (e.g., torque them to spec or near it), remove them and then the new Moog nuts can be tightened to spec with relative ease.
If you currently have torque type nuts, find a normal nut that fits the new ball joint's threads and have it on hand for the install.

2. Not all Moog arms are made in the USA, and the non-USA joints are not as tight as the USA ones. I received a Canadian-made 8596 upper arm, returned it (because the boot was damaged anyway) and specifically requested a USA-made 8596 arm. I was sent another Canadian arm. Neither Canadian joint is as firm/tight as the USA joint. I discovered this is especially true with these lower arms -- USA ones are extremely tight, Canadian ones not so much.

I presume this is a matter of factory tolerances being different -- assuming identical design, materials and construction methods.
I contacted Federal-Mogul, but never heard back from them, so I don't know whether the 8596 (and certain LCA's) are simply not made in USA at all, or if it's just that Amazon doesn't have the USA version (or didn't bother reading my replacement instructions).
Good luck getting matched-pair USA-made arms, from Amazon at least.

So far, I can't tell much, if any, difference in real world driving performance or feel between the Canadian and USA arms. Only time will tell if one side wears much faster than the other.