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A Most Hostile Mountain : Re-Creating the Duke of Abruzzi's Historic Expedition on Mount St. Elias
 
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A Most Hostile Mountain : Re-Creating the Duke of Abruzzi's Historic Expedition on Mount St. Elias [Hardcover]

Jonathan Waterman (Author)
3.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (5 customer reviews)


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Amazon.com Review

In 1897 an Italian nobleman--Luigi of Savoy, the duke of Abruzzi--set out to climb North America's second-highest peak, the 18,008-foot Mount St. Elias (known to the native Tlingit people of Alaska as Yasetaca). A century later, the author of A Most Hostile Mountain attempts to recreate this same land-sea journey by sailing north out of Seattle and into the Gulf of Alaska. While Abruzzi traveled with an army's worth of supplies and numerous porters to shoulder creature comforts fit for a duke, Jonathan Waterman chooses the relative quiet of a single companion in his attempt to retrace the duke's historic expedition. Once on the mountain, after a hectic passage via a small sailboat, the climbers endure a variety of difficulties: harsh weather conditions, avalanches, a lack of food. As their circumstances become increasingly dire, Waterman finds refuge in the journals of the duke and his men. Taking his cue from these voices of the past, the author seeks solace in ideals held worthy in the Age of Exploration--a pure desire for adventure and knowledge that transcends the more modern notions of ego-driven success. The result is an engaging narrative that has its crampons firmly imbedded in the ice.

From Library Journal

Luigi Amadeo di Savoia, Duke of Abruzzi, was the first to scale Alaska's Mount St. Elias (18,008') on July 31, 1897. In this centennial celebration, Waterman (Kayaking the Vermilion Sea, LJ 5/15/95) and friend Jeff Hollenbaugh trace his journey beginning with a three-month, 1200-mile approach sailing from Seattle to the base of the mountain. They intend to climb the South Face without the accoutrements and communication devices of modern technology. Unfortunately, 11,000 feet short of the summit they abandon ascent because of insufficient food supplies?rendering presumptuous this book's subtitle. Waterman recounts typical mountaineering experiences?near-fatal avalanches and rock falls, camaraderie made fragile by proximity partnership, the straining of stamina and steely resolve. More fascinating, however, are the interspersed texts derived from accounts and journals of the duke's expedition. Recommended only for libraries specializing in mountaineering or travel literature.?Lonnie Weatherby, McGill Univ., Montreal
Copyright 1997 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 253 pages
  • Publisher: Henry Holt & Co; 1st edition (October 1997)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0805044531
  • ISBN-13: 978-0805044539
  • Product Dimensions: 9.5 x 6.3 x 1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 3.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (5 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,067,199 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Average Customer Review
3.6 out of 5 stars (5 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Great travel story, August 26, 2007
This review is from: A Most Hostile Mountain : Re-Creating the Duke of Abruzzi's Historic Expedition on Mount St. Elias (Hardcover)
Another brilliant book by Waterman. Even if you aren't interested in mountain climbing this is a fascinating book. Waterman has the ability to reveal his heart and soul in his writing in a very eloquent way. This, combined with his skill at describing the world around him makes for a great book.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars Adventure and History, October 31, 2005
By 
This review is from: A Most Hostile Mountain : Re-Creating the Duke of Abruzzi's Historic Expedition on Mount St. Elias (Hardcover)
When Jonathan Waterman decided to recreate the climb of Duke Abruzzi's climb to Mount St. Elias, he knew he was in for one of the most difficult climbs ever. While most expiditions have their supplies airdropped, Waterman sailed more than a thousand miles with everything that he needed, or so he thought. An adventure story turns quickly into survival. Waterman also gives a great account of the Duke Of Abruzzi's life and his passion of mountain climbing despite his attachment to royalty.
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5 of 7 people found the following review helpful:
2.0 out of 5 stars Good Biography, Poor Auto-Biography, September 1, 1998
This review is from: A Most Hostile Mountain : Re-Creating the Duke of Abruzzi's Historic Expedition on Mount St. Elias (Hardcover)
This book is really two books: one, a biography and story about the Duke of Abruzzi and his expedition (in the early 1900's) to climb Mt. St. Elias in Alaska; and two, the author's story of his own attempt to climb the same mountain in the 1990's. I found the material on the Duke to be fascinating. When the book switched over to the author's own story however, I usually lost interest.

In his attempt to do justice to the historical accomplishments of the Duke, and to try to experience the mountain on some of the same terms, the author tries to climb the mountain without some the benefits of the technological advances since the Duke's time. He eschews airplanes, for example, and sails a small boat from Seattle up to Alaska then hikes all the way in from the ocean to the base of the mountain. Sounds like the basis for a great story, right? In my opinion, it doesn't live up to its potential.

First, the author's claim to be doing without the technological marvels of our times has a lot of holes in it. Yes, he uses no GPS system to navigate his boat to Alaska; but he does use Loran -- and there are several other similar examples (clothing, boots, etc.). Second, I found his longwinded soul-searching and attempts at self-analysis tiresome and I do not think it added much to the reader's experience. Third, I found his treatment of his partners to be downright insulting. My sense is that he really didn't like his partners much and they didn't like him. I myself would certainly not want to climb with this man. I think I would have loved to climb with the Duke.

Most seriously, I lost interest in his story mostly because I thought his failure to climb the the mountain was largely due to his own poor plans and decisions. He underestimates the amount of food they will need on the mountain (they almost starve to death) but he does bring a large, heavy video camera along to record the climbing. In my opinion, a stupid and vain decision. I doubt very much if the Duke would have made these kinds of mistakes!

When I read a book such as this, I want to admire the people in it, or at least feel that I have learned something significant from the actions of the protagonists. Well, I certainly learned a lot about the Duke and gained an admiration him, but I certainly did not admire the actions of the author; nor do I believe I learned anything of much value from his story.

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