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1,129 of 1,179 people found the following review helpful
on April 30, 2011
Sorry for the Dyslexia - This review is on the Motorola SBG 6580 SURFboard eXtreme Wireless Cable Gateway - during my video I used an imcorrect model number :(

BIG PLUS to this unit: You do not have to buy a seperate WIRELESS N ROUTER which saves about $100 or so additional cost. Some have said they bought the lesser Motorola unit and then bought an extra Wireless N router. This seems like an unneccessary expense to me.

Things to know:

This modem will ONLY work for CABLE-delivered Internet such as Comcast Xfinity (tm) and some other ISP's using CABLE Internet signals. It will NOT work on AT&T UVerse network (because UVerse uses a hyped-up DSL technology)

1. Unbox unit
2. Connect AC Power Adapter to wall (recommend plugging into UPS power supply)- plug the other end into the back of this router.
3. Connect COAX cable from ISP wall plate to your modem. This is the same hexagonal cable connector type as used to connect to CABLE TV.
4. Grab the included cat 5e ETHERNET CABLE (looks similar to a telephone cable) and plug one end into your laptop or PC and one end into one of the 4 ethernet jacks on the back of the unit.
5. If you don't have an ETHERNET jack on your laptop or PC you'll be going wireless - run the included INSTALLATION CD and follow the directions.
6. Open your webrowser (Internet Explorer, Firefox, Chrome, etc) and type in the modem address then enter your username-- admin and password-- motorola and hit login button.
7. You'll be looking at a web-based SETUP SCREEN with TABS from left to right.
8. Click on FIREWALL tab, locate the IP FLOOD DETECTION checkbox and UNTICK IT (remove the checkmark) then click on the APPLY button.
9. Pick up phone and call your ISP. From the box that shipped with your device - read the ISP the model number (SBG 6580) and the __HTC MAC ADDRESS__ ID number (the MAC ID varies from one unit to another and is printed on the bottom of your modem itself as well as the shipping box. The HTC Mac Address is the FIRST of the two listed Mac addresses, the second one is the GATEWAY address.
10. Be sure your isp offers DOCSIS 3.0 SIGNAL or you will not reap the max speed from this device.

About the accompanying video:

about 4 minutes of hands-on demo with this device including real world speed test from the Internet. Remember to go to FIREWALL settings and un-tick IP FLOOD DETECTION - if you don't you will not get max performance. Otherwise simple to set up and blazingly fast. Note: Hard-wired (ethernet) is always going to be much faster than wireless. This proved true on my network, 30.77 mbps download speed realized (hard wired) vs 10 mbps Wireless. Overall I'm extremely happy - no negatives at all. A Must-Have piece of equipment. Important: Your ISP needs to provide good quality signal and use DOCSIS 3.0 technology to achieve the higher speeds (30 and above) mentioned in this review. Don't blame this equipment if you have a bad ISP connection you won't get the performance. My ISP is Comcast. Fiber optic is a lot faster than UVERSE IMHO.

***UPDATED 4/11/2012: Comcast and Motorola have teemed up to release an important FIRMWARE UPDATE! In reading recent forum discussions about this product, I discovered a 'problem' where the modem required hard-power off (unplug power and reconnect power) at random, and on a DAILY BASIS. I myself began to experience this unpleasant phenomenon, and it wasn't until I called Comcast Support and asked to have the modem "re-provisioned" (by Comcast over the telephone) that this nagging issue finally resolved itself - via a FIRMWARE UPDATE. I went from 3.0.x.x. firmware to and once again, life was "good" and rock-solid high speed Internet a reality. Download speeds tested at 38 mpbs and 5mbps upload, heap plenty fast, Keemo Sabe. If you have problems with your modem losing connectivity, I strongly recommend you call your ISP Provider and request tech support 're-set' or 're-provision' the modem. You might get lucky and get the new firmware - you CANNOT get it from Motorola. Motorola will refer you back to your ISP. Hope this helps I wouldn't want any other equipment than this!

***UPDATED 6/12/2013: Comcast, in response to pressure by AT&T, has increased their Internet speeds 'across the board' for all tiers of Internet service. What this means to you is that if you (like me) are a Comcast BLAST customer, you may experience unheard-of speed. I ran speed tests this morning as was stunned to see I am getting 55.47 MBps download and 10.69 MBs upload. This equates to 6.93 Megabytes per second download. Now that is FAST! You could download 416MB in just ONE minute! That is incredible. Also, Comcast has been pushing a lot of firmware updates out to the device, which now is rock solid and requires no maintenance or resets. Finally, new customers are reporting that they don't have to do anything more than screw the coax cable (from Comcast) onto the back of the device, plug the unit into A/C power, and then either connect via hardwire (plug your ethernet cables into the back of this unit) or wirelessly. See the side of the device for your specific WiFi WEP code which you must type into your wireless devices to gain access to your device.

While I previously felt this was a wonderful unit - I now am totally convinced of it, and have the ongoing reliability to prove it. I fly for a virtual airline, and rock solid Internet communications is vital during flight ops. This equipment is as reliable as you could ever wish for.

UPDATE 7/4/2013 - a close family friend got tired of paying "RENT" to Comcast for their Internet Modem, and elected to purchase this unit (albeit from B**T **Y Big Box Retailer in lieu of Amazon. I highly recommend Amazon over Big Box stores - much friendlier about returns - no restocking fee! no arguments! Friend reports this unit is now 100% plug and play - no longer need to go into configuration and turn off any settings. Friend completely satisfied - did not have to call Comcast at all.
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519 of 548 people found the following review helpful
VINE VOICEon November 2, 2010
When evaluating this type of equipment, one must differentiate between the device itself and other factors that can impact its performance. Blaming the manufacturer for issues likely caused by one's ISP is akin to saying, "I can't get past third gear because of all this construction on the highway... I'll never buy a Jaguar again!"

That said, the SBG6580 is a solid piece of kit.

This latest addition to the SURFboard line combines a DOCSIS 3 cable modem with a gigabit switch and a dual-antenna 802.11n wireless access point, providing all the networking equipment a home office needs in a single compact package... this amounts to a single point of failure, but that's par for the residential course. It can deliver 42 mbps downstream on a single channel (which my provider brands "Lightning") with support for eight bonded channels... meaning that when the day comes that ISPs start selling triple-digit speeds, this gateway won't need to be replaced.

Wi-Fi performance has been comparable to my old draft n router with similar range and throughput in a mixed mode environment. What sets the SBG6580 apart are its better indicator lights and superior configuration utility which offers some settings normally found only on enterprise-grade equipment. Those less inclined to tinker should know that push-button support is provided; once the cable guy finished with the wall outlet, setup took less than five minutes.

Finally, one word of caution: the SBG6580 needs airflow. I originally placed it flush against a similarly-sized backup hard drive on my desk and found the unit hot to the touch after a few hours. To avoid problems, do not block the vents.
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245 of 259 people found the following review helpful
on September 23, 2013
Hi everybody, when I first bought the SBG6580 I was wary of the bad reviews and the disconnection problems, and I felt horrible when these issues started appearing in my SBG. Having solved the issue 2 weeks ago I would like to share it with as many people as I can to prevent this from happening to anyone else. The review I am about to write will cover the problem I encountered and the solution in a short and long format, and will be accompanied by photos. So let's begin-

*Short Version Guide:*

Go to, type in the username- admin and the password- motorola and look at the page that first appears (should be the Connection page). There should be three tables, look at the second one. Locate the Power column. If your power levels are negative, or if they're not within the range of -8dBmV and +8dBmV (meaning they are 9 or 10, or -9 or -10), you might have a problem. Now look at the third table and locate the power column. If your power levels are higher than 50dBmV, you might have a problem.

If it's not working well (meaning it works, but keeps disconnecting), it might look something like this- [Picture uploaded to costumer photos]
First thing you *should* do, although optional, is call Motorola support line. I've found them to have a great support line, and they'd be able to pinpoint the problem for you- their number is 1877-466-8646.

What they would probably tell you to do, and what you can do anyway if you don't want to call them, is to call your cable company support line. What you need is a technician to come over to your house and check all of your cable lines, to try and see why the power levels are bad, and the replace the cable or instrument that is malfunctioning (most likely not your modem, don't worry). The best way to get that is to call them up, be nice, go through all the hoops and all the attempts they try to restore your connection (if they manage to restore it, wait until it stops working again, call them again, and tell them it doesn't work and that you need a technician), and then eventually tell them that you need a technician because you called Motorola support and they said you have a problem with your power levels.

Usually that would do it. Don't be afraid to talk to the technician, show him the problem, but also listen to the tech and understand what they're saying.

Hopefully they'd get it right on the first visit, if not, do not despair, call them again.

I hope that helps anyone who's had the same issue as I did.

After fixing this issue my modem works great, the wifi extends throughout the whole house (2000sqft, cast walls mostly), and all channels are locked.

Good luck! Check out the extended guide below.

*Long Guide Version:*

*What causes the problem*

So let's get to the heart of the matter- Power levels.

Power levels are the strength of signal that your modem is receiving and sending through the cable connection. The SBG 6580 can handle power levels ranging from -15dBmV to +15dBmV for the download stream, and up to 55dBmV for the upstream (Not so sure about the negative upstream levels). That's all in theory though, because the actual OPTIMAL range is between -8dBmV to 8dBmV for the downstream, and up to about 52dBmV for the up stream. This doesn't necessarily mean that the Modem is crap because it can't handle higher (or lower) power levels, because it seems (after talking to TWC technicians) that these levels are also the cable companies' maximum and minimum power levels. So if you're exceeding these levels, there's a good chance your cable company is doing something wrong.

What are these power levels? In short, and to my completely ignorant understanding, they're the strength of the of the signal coming from through the cable from the cable company. This strength goes down as you move further away from the main line, or the place where they transmit the signal from. So basically the longer the wire is connecting your house to the "tap" (where the signal comes from)- the worse your power levels should be. The longer the cable going around your house- the worse your power levels should be. If it's an old cable, or the "tap" is malfunctioning- you're going to see bad power levels. (I say worse and bad instead of lower and low because I really have no idea how these things can work on a *negative* value, and how any of this works).

*Diagnosing the problem*

But let's not dwell on the technical mumbo jumbo and move on to *How to diagnose your problem, and how to solve it*-

The first thing we need to do is connect to our SBG6580 and get a reading of those power levels. The way to do that could not be easier- just type in your browser address line (yes, it's a weird address, but it'll work). You'll be asked for a username and password- the default for the username is admin (just type in admin) and for the password- motorola (just type in motorola).

And this is what you should see (for a working modem)- [Picture uploaded to costumer photos]

(This was taken after my issue was fixed).

Locate the Power column on the Downstream Bonded Channels table. See how they're all between 6 and 7? That's good. Now look at the power levels on the Upstream table- 34.000 dBmV, that's also good. Notice how all 8 lines of the Downstream table and all 4 lines of the upstream table are full, this means your channels are locked, this is the optimal situation.

Now, this is what I saw when my modem was working, but kept disconnecting ever so often- [Picture uploaded to costumer photos]

Notice now how the downstream power levels are negative, and that they are much closer, or over -8dBmV. Usually I'd see ranges between -7 and -9 when my modem wasn't working well (during the times when it was still able to maintain a connection). This is what the levels look like when your modem is barely hanging on to the connection. It manages to lock all downstream channels, but barely. Now look at the monstrous upstream power level- 55.7dBmV! This would usually be 57dBmV, and it was the source of all my problems, also notice that only one upstream channel is locked, this would usually show when looking at your modem lights- if all channels are locked the light would be blue. If they're not all locked, but the modem is still able to connect, the light would be green. What I'd normally see is a green light for power, a blue light for downstream (the second light down), a green light for upstream (the third light down), and a green light (sometimes flashing) for the 4th light.

If you compare this photo to the one where the modem is working perfectly you can see that the high upstream levels are effectively disrupting all the other channels, causing them to go negative. While this did not cause any decrease in speed, it did cause the modem to lose signal every 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 3 hours, etc.

One thing I'd like to mention here- somehow (and I have no idea how or why), this is not an issue with the modem *itself*, but rather with how it receives the signal from the cable company. When the issue was fixed, it was fixed on the cable line itself (outside my house), and nothing was done to the modem.

Alright, one last thing I'd like to show you- this is how your modem looks while it is disconnected, and cannot reconnect- [Picture uploaded to costumer photos]

Here what we're seeing is the modem struggling to lock on to a signal, in the photo the downstream power level is -7, but I've seen it anywhere between -9.9dBmv to 43.0dBmV, the upstream is 49dBmV, but I've seen that go all the way up to 57 as well. I'm really not sure what's happening *inside* the modem, but it's clear that something is wrong, since it would stay like this for a while (sometimes hours). The lights on the modem, by the way, will flash green when it's trying to connect like this (either the downstream or upstream light).

*solving the problem*

So, now that we've been able to diagnose, how do we *solve the problem?*

Well, sadly there is only one way- call your cable company, and ask for a technician. Most of the time this means you'll have to go through the proper channels, call support, talk to the guy from India trying his hardest to mask his accent (god bless these guys, they do try hard, and do a great job most of the time), and eventually when all fails tell them you're seeing very high/abnormal power levels, and that you definitely need a technician.

When the technician comes tell them you're seeing abnormal power signals. They'll connect their little modem to your cable line and see what they're getting, then they'll check all the wires, and eventually check the tap. They'll then either replace the cables around your house, or the cables connecting to the tap, or they'll have to call a line guy to work on it and fix it the next day.

Do not despair, these guys are usually very nice, and good at what they do. If the problem persists a week later, again, do not despair, just call them again, and tell them what's happening. If you can meet up with the actual line repairman, do so, and explain to them what the problem was.

Hopefully this will help you fix your line and get the steady connection I am getting.

By the way, I have found that remote fixes (where they call you and say "we've changed something in our files, not your internet should work better") do not work very well, or for long. If your internet is working after one of these repairs wait at least 3 days to see if problems eventually persist.

*Actual review-*

Well, I have to admit, I don't really have anything to compare this modem to- it works well, wifi range is wonderful, covers the whole house (2000sqft, cast walls), speeds are great, there are no drops anymore, and the modem/router seems to have many features which I don't really use like uPnP, port forwarding, etc. Pretty basic, pretty simple to understand. There's also the option of creating a guest network, which I guess is good for some specific uses, and there's also WPS, which might be useful to some people.

All in all does what it's meant to, and does it well, I guess. Not much to add, not much I know about routers or modems.
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592 of 670 people found the following review helpful
on February 12, 2011
The option of having a cable modem with built in wireless N and 4 port switch was enticing, rather than having both a modem and a wireless router. It would save me $13/month vs renting one from my cable provider Time Warner and be a next generation cable modem with very nice wireless speeds.

I like a lot of others, ignored the bad reviews in light of some good reviews and rolled the dice on it. My dice came up snake eyes.

The modem would constantly disconnect from service, at least every couple of hours ranging from 1 - 10 minutes. A simple thing like changing the routers password was a staggering affair as not only do the labels on the page not make any sense, the documentation for the modem was also wrong. I ended up having to search online for how to exactly do it.

Eventually it got to the point I couldn't take it anymore and hit up Time Warner Cable support. They where great, sent a tech out to take a look at my setup. After one tech visit, I was still having problems with the modem. The tech was confident that the everything was good on their end.

However the modem kept dropping. I then spent around 1.5 hours on the phone with another tech as we troubleshot the router. The tech was getting all sorts of strange readings from it. He couldn't get the ip from the router, it was showing 6 different mac ids connect too it (which was impossible) among other bizarre stuff. We eventually settled on something is defiantly not right with this modem.

Anyways I sent it back to Amazon, which so far has been great with returns. I ended up going with a Motorola SB6120 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 eXtreme Broadband Cable Modem and Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Router WNDR3400 and finally have a good setup.

Just do yourself a favor, check out the reviews here and elsewhere online there is something majorly wrong with a large number of these modems. Probably a bad memory module, but who knows. If you buy this item you're probably rolling the dice.
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245 of 279 people found the following review helpful
on November 15, 2010
The SBG6580 can actually be a niece all-in-one device if you have the patience and know-how to get it configured right.

First off, there is a feature called 'IP Flood Detection' that needs to be disabled. (It is located under the Firewall page) By default, it is turned ON. When ON, this feature eventually causes everything to slow to a crawl. Turn it OFF (uncheck box) and you will never go slow again. This is certainly a failing on Motorola's part to default a poor-functioning feature ON in the first place.

I would agree that Motorola's interface is clunky in general. It is pretty powerful too and advanced users will be able to do most of what they want with it.

My carrier is Comcast and I enjoy real-word DL speeds of up to 4MBps (32mbps). Admittedly, with many of my apps, I'm actually around 3MBps, which is plenty fast for me. I have (2) hardwired PCs, (1) hardwired printer, (1) wireless laptop, (1) wireless printer, and (3) other hardwired devices on my network.

I do experience a random 'reset' of the modem on occasion. I have yet to track down what is causing it. I can't blame the hardware (yet) but it occurs with such irregularity (sometimes not for 5 days or more)

It isn't a perfect modem/gateway, but it is capable, if a touch user unfriendly.
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66 of 75 people found the following review helpful
on April 28, 2011
I needed a new gateway to replace my old Motorola SBG900, which Comcast was fazing out in my area, so I looked into getting this ostensibly next-gen DOCSIS 3.0 Gateway instead. I've seen a lot of both very positive and very negative feedback for this product here on Amazon, so I decided I would give my thoughts to try and help people make an informed decision about whether or not to buy the SBG6580.

First off, unboxing and installation was very easy. Take everything out, plug in the power cord and coaxial cable, put the instal disc into your computer and follow the on screen instructions. My wireless network was set up in just a few minutes. From there, you can access the Gateway's IP through any internet browser to do things such as: change your networks SSID and password, change your modem's login ID and password (these are different than your network ID and password - but you can change them to be the same should you so choose), and, as other reviewers have pointed out, you can and should turn off the IP flood detection.

Once I did all that I called up Comcast to give them the modem's MAC ID and get it initialized into their system. This is where I encountered some problems. Everything seemed to be working, and according to the Comcast CSR, everything looked fine on their end, but...I had no internet. We checked my old modem, and that still worked, then switched back to the new SBG6580 and...nothing. Needless to say I was getting worried that I got a defective product. So as soon as I got off the phone with Comcast I called Motorola customer service. I talked to a very friendly, helpful gentleman who started out by getting some product information from me and then proceeding to start going through some simple steps to try and diagnose the problem. Just as we were getting started, my modem randomly reset itself and the internet started working!

Turns out, at least according to the Motorola CSR, that it can take 30 minutes or more for the modem to become fully integrated into the internet providers databases. So the problem was solved! But he did pass along some other useful information as well: turns out my Comcast region is not DOCSIS 3.0 enabled. If the Send, Receive, and Online lights on the Gateway are all Blue, you've got DOCSIS 3.0. If they are green, you've got 2.0. The modem will still work, thankfully, but it's just not performing to the peak of it's capabilities.

Anyway, once the modem finally started (probably took 25-30 minutes after initially contacting Comcast), it has worked very well. Speed is about the same as my old SBG900, which is a little disappointing, but that could be related to the fact that my region is still only DOCSIS 2.0 enabled. Signal strength is decent (not great), but it has been very reliable with no outages so far (2 weeks+).

To summarize:

- Once set up, TURN OFF IP flood detection
- Don't give up on the modem right away - it may take a while to get incorporated into your service provider's system
- Product seems reliable, with adequate speeds and signal strengths.
- Should work even if your area is not DOCSIS 3.0 enabled, but MAKE SURE to call your service provider ahead of time to confirm that they support this modem

All in all, I recommend it as a pretty good all in one unit. 4/5 stars.
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30 of 32 people found the following review helpful
on January 18, 2012
My Motorola Surfboard SBG6580 has been working great with Comcast! But after 1.5 years of stable operation, I became a statistic of constant internet drops and found my internet signals ranging (a term used for wide signal fluctuations). Comcast came out a few times to check all the cabling to resolve the problem without success until the last technician suggested to swap out the cable modem. I had my doubts about the cable modem being the problem until research on the internet revealed that the SBG6580 has problems which only an updated firmware can fix, however under DOCSIS specifications you cannot just download and install the firmware yourself but is regulated by your service provider, Comcast. There's one problem, Comcast does not fully support the SBG6580 and therefore no firmware updates are available. The SBG6850 is compatible with Comcast service but not supported by them. If you have firmware greater than SBG6580- (NOTE Update below), you might not have the annoying internet drops and ranging issues. The majority of cable internet subscribers recommend using a cable modem and router versus going with an all in one unit such as the SBG6580. The last Comcast technician also recommended a cable modem and router setup, and said that he has heard a lot of complaints from customers using the SBG6850. He also showed me the cable modems currently supported by Comcast, the Arris WBM760A, Ubee DDM3513, and I believe the third one was a Zoom 5350. If you are stuck with a SBG6580, you can use it in other ways. There are success stories of using the SBG6580 in Bridge mode to only use it as a modem and connect it to a (wireless)router. I ended up using the SBG6580 as a wireless access point versus a wireless bridge to extend my wireless coverage. All you have to do is give the SBG6580 an address on the subnet that doesn't conflict with your other devices (ie., turn off NAT, turn off DHCP server, leave the wireless enabled, make sure the wireless channel doesn't conflict with any wireless routers, make sure the SSID is the same for your wireless network, and connect it to your router with a cable. The other option mentioned is to put the SBG6580 in wireless bridge mode which does not require a cable to the router. However, you will lose wireless throughput as wireless information is repeated over the air. For this feature you would have to enable the Wireless Bridge Mode option in the SBG6580 settings. In the end I went with a Ubee 3513 cable modem connected by a cable to a spare wireless G router, connected by a cable to the SBG6580 as a wireless access point/hub. I have used this setup for two months as of this writing without any problems and the measured internet signal levels are much better than with the SBG6580 being the gateway.

I do not recommend purchasing the SBG6580 and to go with a separate cable modem and separate router setup. Although I do like the idea of a compact all in one, but its just not reliable, period.

UPDATE: I have spoken to a couple of recent purchasers on Amazon and confirmed that all the new SBG6580's have the same hardware and firmware compared to mine 1.5 years ago which means that all the gateways are no good and may FAIL at some point. Some earlier than others. It all comes down to if your service provider supply these gateways themselves, then you will most likely be okay as firmware updates are likely available. However I would still check for reviews of people having success with this gateway and your service provider as a precautionary measure. (1-20-2012)

UPDATE: Be careful if you are going with the uBee 3513, Arris 760A, or Zoom 5350 modem if you own it. You will want to use Comcast's online automated setup and leave the setup alone otherwise you may be paying the rental fee if Comcast sets you up as one of their own modems because the Comcast system thinks all the listed modem's serial numbers belong to them. Now I have to straighten out my rental charges with Comcast because a tech set me up as a uBee.

Update: In regards to Comcast modem rental charge... my local Comcast store cannot help with the rental charges. I called Comcast billing today to tell them that I own my uBee modem and that I am being charged the rental. All they did was ask for the modem serial number and mac address, and without further questions corrected the problem and refunded my rental fees. Sweet! We'll see when my next bill arrives. (3-8-12)

UPDATE: Recently Comcast has pushed a new firmware version 3.3 for these Motorola all-in-ones to their customers, but then rolled back the firmware to the old 3.1 due to other problems surfacing with version 3.3. Comcast is working with Motorola to get the firmware bugs resolved for a stable firmware release. This is good news but will take awhile longer. Here's where the info came from
I can't wait for a stable firmware release! (3-27-12)
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89 of 104 people found the following review helpful
on November 19, 2011
I recently switched from DSL to cable internet. The cable company (Time Warner) provided this modem/router for me for free. After hooking it up and getting it running I was immediately unimpressed. Two of the rooms in the house that had no problems connecting wirelessly to the DSL modem had poor connections to this modem--low speeds and intermittent connections. After talking with TW they informed me that nothing was wrong with the modem. That's just how it performed. My previous 2wire brand DSL modem used wireless G. This modem uses wireless N technology so it's supposed to have greater wireless range but in actuality it performs worse than the 2wire.

I went into the router page to see if I could tinker with some settings to possibly improve the connection. Needless to say I found nothing. This router has the most user-unfriendly interface and unattractive layout I've ever seen. Lots of obscure and useless information that only a tech would understand. It also does not have a lot of configurable options and/or features that a more modern router, like this one is supposed to be, would have. You are only allowed 10 slots each for port forwarding, triggering, filtering etc. which is very strict. This is a limitation that I usually see on older routers. The QOS features are basically non-existent. It only has the option to enable/disable WMM (Wifi multimedia). It lacks more advanced QOS features like designating which computer has bandwidth priority over others, the ability to limit a user's bandwidth so they don't hog it all, which programs get more bandwidth etc. You also can't upgrade the firmware.

Another major strike against this modem is that although it supports dual band wireless frequencies (2.4ghz and 5ghz), it does not allow simultaneous dual band; you can't use both frequencies at the same time, you must select one. So if you want to take advantage of a wireless network adapter that uses the 5ghz band but still want to use your iphone's wifi that only connects at 2.4ghz, then you're out of luck. You'll have to use 2.4 ghz on all your devices or exclude some devices or constantly change the setting in the router. Pretty disappointing and basically makes the dual band feature useless.

In the end I solved the bad wireless connection by purchasing some extra routers for cheap and using them as access points throughout the house. Personally I hate this device and would never pay for something so shoddy and overpriced. The only reason I gave it 2* stars is because even though the wireless is horrible, the rest works and the internet connection is stable. If you don't need lots of features or simultaneous dual band or you live in a small place then this modem might work for you. But only if you receive it free with your cable service. Don't buy it!

*Edit: I have changed the rating from 2 stars to 1. The modem has been frequently losing internet connection and doesn't re-establish the connection unless I power cycle the modem. The speed also seems to decrease unless I restart it periodically. This seems to happen a few times a week. I will try and ask TW for a new modem but I'm not holding my breath. I might have to purchase my own cable modem and router to use. Horrible equipment!

2nd Edit: I found it's possible to only disable the router function on this and just use it as a cable modem while hooking up your own separate router to it. I read this pretty much solves any connection/wireless problems as the router part seems to be the cause of it. I installed a D-Link DIR-601 router this way and it's been working great. Here are the instructions on how to do it if you're interested:

1. Unplug coaxial cable from the Motorola modem.

2. Hold down the white reset button on the back panel with a pen for 30s. This resets all settings to factory defaults. The modem will be auto-reconfigured once you plug in the coax cable.

3. When modem is back on plug in a computer with an ethernet cable into the modem.

4. Connect to [...] and login with "admin" / "motorola" (without the quotes)

5. Now you will make some changes:

Wireless -> Primary Network -> Disabled

Basic -> Setup -> NAPT Mode -> Disabled

Advanced -> Options -> Rg Passthrough -> Enable

Advanced -> Options -> Passthrough Mac Addresses -> Add WAN MAC address of the separate router you plan on using (This step is probably not necessary as my router worked without doing this but if you find yours doesn't then try it)

Basic -> DHCP -> No

6. Connect an ethernet cable to one of the ports on the Motorola modem and connect the other end to the WAN (Internet) port of your router.

7. Plug the coaxial cable back into the modem and power cycle it.

Hopefully it should work fine now. Even though my D-link router doesn't have great range it's still better than the Motorola and the connection seems to be stable and much faster.
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36 of 40 people found the following review helpful
I have Charter cable for my internet service and i recently upgraded to the 25Mbps package. The all-in-one netgear router/modem that i was leasing from Charter wasn't capable of draft N, and i was getting charged $9.99 a month for it so i decided that it was time for an upgrade. After about a week of searching i finally settled on the SBG6580. I chose this all-in-one solution because it would help limit the wire clutter in my house. Now with that being said, this Motorola device is GREAT! The speeds are super fast, and it can be a useful device all the way from the computer novice, to someone with a CCIE. On the flip side the GUI is a bit clunky. When it comes to non-enterprise level routers my experience is mainly with netgear and linksys. I would have to admit that both of those companies have a much more friendly user interface. Not to mention that remote configuration is possible with both of those other companies. I guess Motorola sees it as a security risk to allow remote configurations. Oah well.
As far as the usability of this router, my only gripe is that Motorola left the damn "IP FLOOD DETECTION" box checked on the firewall. That one simple box basically rendered my router useless to do anything more complex than to load one low-res page at a time. After reading everyone's complaints about this device i honestly believe that everyone would be happy with this device if Motorola simply would ship it with the "IP FLOOD DETECTION" box unchecked. With all of that said... I love this modem, It has met and exceeded my speed requirements, as well as all of my security requirements.
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72 of 84 people found the following review helpful
on November 23, 2010
I've had this modem in place for a month now and I am impressed in every respect. I previously had the Motorola 901 (which was a rock-solid performer), and upgraded to gain the "N" level of wireless performance and be prepared for DOCSIS 3.0 from my cable provider (Charter). I find this gateway performs to the limits of my ISP (which in my case at my rural location it 25 down and 3 up), and has good "reach" throughout my home. It performs flawlessly including hosting uninterrupted 4-way video-conferencing (Apple iSight). For those having problems, I suggest you relax your firewall settings a bit, especially those related to scrubbing packets. All make sure your cable provider is doing their part on the performance in, including having the right levels of line voltages in and out of your home (you can see these on the unit's diagnostics panel). In sum, I'm smiling, have no remorse whatsoever, would buy again, and would advise my best Friend to do so as well.
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