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Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide [Paperback]

Mike Gauthier (Author)
4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (21 customer reviews)


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Paperback, October 1999 --  

Book Description

October 1999
The definitive guide to climbing Rainier with 39 of the best routes. Includes details of the approach, the climb, descent, elevation, hazards, seasons, permits, safety, and much more.


Editorial Reviews

Review

Author Mike Gauthier is a veteran climber and the lead climbing and mountain rescue ranger at Mount Rainier -- Pittsburgh Tribune-Review

If you're looking for an experienced author, it doesn't get much better...[Gauthier is] the lead climbing ranger at the park. -- Everett Herald --This text refers to an alternate Paperback edition.

About the Author

Mike Gauthier started backpacking in the Washington wilderness at age eleven. His professional career began in Olympic National Park as a volunteer backcountry ranger. Ten years ago, he joined the National Park Service climbing staff at Mount Rainier where he is now the Lead Climbing Ranger. Mike has summited Mount Rainier over 150 times by twenty-four different routes, in all seasons and under all conditions. He regularly conducts workshops in mountain and rope rescue techniques, cold weather survival skills, backcountry snowboarding, and avalanche awareness. In 1998, he was designated a Wilderness Rescue Hero by the American Red Cross.In addition to his activities at Mount Rainier, he has led three expeditions to Alaska's Mount McKinley and is an avid snowboarder, rock climber, and photographer. His photographic artwork is on permanent display in the National Park Inn at Longmire, Washington. Mike lives in Mount Rainier National Park.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 192 pages
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books (October 1999)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0898866553
  • ISBN-13: 978-0898866551
  • Product Dimensions: 8.3 x 5.3 x 0.5 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 9.1 ounces
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (21 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #976,274 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

21 Reviews
5 star:
 (17)
4 star:
 (2)
3 star:
 (2)
2 star:    (0)
1 star:    (0)
 
 
 
 
 
Average Customer Review
4.7 out of 5 stars (21 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

49 of 49 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars The Definitive Rainier Guide, February 22, 2000
By 
Mark (Seattle, WA) - See all my reviews
This review is from: Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide (Paperback)
Superior route photography and excellent route overlays set this book apart from all the rest. Gauthier's aerial photographs depict recent glacial conditions, and the generous number of photos show many of the routes from a variety of descriptive angles. The route descriptions are excellent and reflect the author's tremendous knowledge and experience all around the mountain. The first half of the book provides a comprehensive text on skills, strategies, and preparation for climbing Mt. Rainier. Anyone unfamiliar with Rainier- whether a novice climber or a seasoned alpinist- will find a wealth of useful information unique to this mountain. Gauthier addresses not only the fundamentals of mountaineering on Rainier, but provides sound advice coming from years of climbing the mountain in all seasons and conditions. Experienced climbers new to Rainier will appreciate the author's insights to safe climbing strategies on the mountain. Many experienced climbers have underestimated Rainier and have become the subject of a surprising number of rescues on the mountain. The author presents sound principles of "mountain sense", as particular to Rainier as anywhere else, that every climber should learn. Whether you're a novice climber aspiring to climb Rainier, a Rainier veteran looking for a new challenge, or a climber of any ability seeking to learn as much as possible about climbing this mountain, this book is a must-have.
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30 of 30 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Enough! I'm going climbing already!, June 20, 2000
By 
This review is from: Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide (Paperback)
This is one of the best climbing guides that I have ever seen. I think that guides of this nature (no pun intended) have to walk a fine line between giving too much information and giving so little that somebody gets hurt on a route they shouldn't be on. This book walks that line masterfully.

To begin with, the routes are organized in groups that are sorted by their respective approaches. The technical information about difficulties, level of intensity, and time involved are extremely realistic for semi-experienced mountaineers. What I like best, however, are the descriptions of the routes and the pictures. The descriptions are detailed enough to address certain specifics but leave enough unsaid to not spoil the personality of the individual routes. Mike's pictures are great (good enough to be on permanent display at Longmire) and show the mountain in stunning detail. Most routes receive several pictures to help you see it from all sides.

To be sure, this is one climbing guide that you must use to fully appreciate. It is not a coffee table book or a course on mountaineering - it is an excellent text detailing all of the major routes on the mountain and their commitment level for all levels of climbers. You cannot do better than this book if you are planning a climb of Rainier. From the explanations of how the seasons effect the routes to the group checklist of gear, this is one book that will pay for itself in spades by the time you are done with it.

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27 of 27 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Somebody finally got it right!, February 23, 2000
By 
This review is from: Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide (Paperback)
For both the aspiring Rainier climber, and the veteran wishing to seek out a new adventure, the first step in a successful climb is to obtain this essential guide book. I found Gauthier's book contained absolutely all the information any climber needs to be successful on a climb of this wonderful mountain, and most importantly be able to come back home to talk about it. Climbers can also be sure that all the information is accurate and up to date due to Gauthier's unique position as the Lead Climbing Ranger for Mt. Rainier National Park. Where I was most impressed with this book however, was with the route descriptions and photographs. As with the rest of the book there is no "fluff" here. The route descriptions cover all the information you need to safely ascend these routes, and have no garbage to wade through to get to it. The clear, easy to follow route pictures set the standard for which I have yet to see an equal (and believe me I have wasted enough money and time looking). I was also relieved to see a guidebook written by someone who truly knows this great mountain, and lives and works on it year-round. Any climber can learn from Gauthier's vast, expansive knowledge and his experience is second to none. All this and it will actually fit in the top flap of your pack! The definitive guide to Mt. Rainier and the only book I will ever recommend.
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Inside This Book (learn more)
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First Sentence:
Mount Rainier is by far the most coveted summit in the Cascade Range. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
negotiating crevasses, icefall hazard, cleaver routes, headwall route, summit crater rim, bivy site, rockfall hazard, cross the bergschrund, terraced ledges, rib crest, ice slopes, ice cliff, high camp, glacier travel, ice chute, glacier route, glacier slopes, rock buttress, snow ledge, ice screws, elevation gain, avalanche hazard, first ascent, many climbers, snow bridges
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Mount Rainier, Liberty Cap, Willis Wall, Curtis Ridge, Camp Muir, Columbia Crest, Liberty Ridge, Camp Schurman, Tahoma Glacier, Disappointment Cleaver, Mowich Face, Point Success, State Route, Success Cleaver, Ptarmigan Ridge, Tahoma Cleaver, Kautz Glacier, Westside Road, Nisqually Glacier, Kautz Cleaver, Carbon River, Mowich Lake, White River Campground, Winthrop Glaciers, Carbon Glacier
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