Customer Reviews

Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage: The Lonely Challenge

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This is without a doubt one of the two best mountaineering books. Incredible stories of close shaves and lucky escapes make it clear that the final ending on Chogolisa was bound to happen sooner or later. Only Terray's "Conquistadors of the Useless" reaches the same heights. They don't write them like this anymore ....

You might not find the literary style of this book to be a knockout, but, like Jerzy Kukuzka's "My Vertical World", the content will probably blow you away. Hermann fought his way past numerous obstacles on his way to the summit of Nanga and did so with impeccable style. It's a guaranteed classic.

This book, written by Hermann Buhl, was largely re-written by his friend and editor Kurt Maix, at least according to Reinhold Messner, author of a climber's biography of Herman Buhl. This may be so, but I think this book conveys what Hermann Buhl wanted to say- after all he approved it.

While text such as "[my recollections of Nanga Parbat] are ... shining, alluring visions which sear one's heart and wipe out all memory of distress, worry, and disappointment" does not sound like his words, I think they well describe the sensation. And that is one of the key differences between this book and Messner's book, "Hermann Buhl- Climbing Without Compromise". This book conveys, as a detached writer would, the thoughts and feelings more than the exact words or technical details of Buhl's life. For those who prefer, or want additionally, to "hear" Buhl's own voice, and many more\technical details of his accomplishments, I recommend Messner's book.

FYI, the 1987 Movie "The Climb" only covers Buhl's climb of Nanga Parbat, but keeps fairly close to what is described here, and even "quotes" Buhl from this book.

This is the sort of book that belongs in the collection of anyone interested in mountaineering literature. Much of it is written (perhaps partially the translator's fault) in a wordy, romantic style full of "the brotherhood of the rope" and so on, which is more likely to inspire laughter than swelling emotion from today's reader. Nevertheless, Buhl's accomplishments were amazing and the book is worth reading as a chronicle of his career.

Everyone interested in Alpine and Himalayan mountain climbing knows of Herman Buhl (Messner considers him the best climber of all time). His feat of survival alone in a bivouac above 8,000 meters on Nanga Parbat is among the most remarkable achievements in the history of Himalayan Mountaineering!

And here is the most significant area where the book comes up short -- it devotes only a short section, at the very end of the book, to this remarkable expedition. Do not be mislead by the title -- this is not a book about this expedition -- it is an autobiography of Buhl, highlighting some of his remarkable achievements in climbing in the Alps.

My second concern about the book is related to the author's style. Of course, it is a matter of personal preference, but I find Buhl's writing as uninspired and dry, as his climbing capacities are outstanding. One simple comparison of the description of the same episode (climbing the north face of the Eiger) by Buhl as compared to that by Gaston Rebuffat (I highly recommend his book "Starlight and Storm"; they found themselves climbing the Eiger at the same time) clearly shows the much more inspired writing of the French (not to mention that Buhl does not even mention Rebuffat, a well known climber in the Alps by then, by name).

If you are really interested in Herman Buhl, I recommend "Climbing Without Compromise", or the "Kurt Diemberger Omnibus".

I have just reread this classic in English. Hermann Buhl was the best mountaineer the earth had ever given birth to. The conqueror of Nanga Parbat and Falchen Kangi, one of two people who devirginized 2 eight-thousanders, along with Kurt Diemberger. His all ascents stand in contrast with the siege methods of the time, but the ascent of Nanga Parbat set the limit of endurance and courage, to be met decades later. His style compares to the style Mount Everest was ascended in the same way as Jerzy Kukuczka's 14-summits compare to Reinhold Messner's, respectively.

As a child, Herman Buhl was one of my greatest heroes. He triumphed where so many others had suffered heartache and death, and persevered when most in that 1953 expedition had given up hope. Perhaps I liked the fact that his objective was not Everest - so famous to the greater masses, but Nanga Parbat. His climbing of this peak was likely a much greater physical achievement than Norgay and Hillary's, yet he received little fame beyond the mountaineering community. Perhaps that is what drew me to this man, his achievements, and to this book.

Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage is an intriguing story, and one that served as an inspiration to me when I was in the midst of my climbing career. I believe that the most compelling chapters are those of his solo exploits on some of the Alp's greatest faces. He was a visionary in many ways, taking a style and attitude that was years ahead of what most at the time considered appropriate. Although he will never likely be considered a great writer, the story and his exploits are what truly set this book apart from others from that time period.

Just as Nanga Parbat is a mountain for mountaineers, so too is Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage a book for climbers. I think that many of the situations and exploits would be better appreciated by those who have had rocks scuttling past their heads and voids of space lurking under their feet, than those who have always stayed upon more solid ground. However, those who haven't may still vicariously find his story of interest.

As I have grown older, and seen the lives of several others who have lived life on the edge cut short, I have perhaps grown to think of this more as a cautionary tale. Herman Buhl was a bold climber and an inspiration to many, but was also a man who died prematurely very shortly after this book went into print. He comes across as likely somewhat selfish, but also as a man who truly loved those wonderful peaks that he once scaled so masterfully. For this reason, this book is certainly worth a look.