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Nature Noir: A Park Ranger's Patrol in the Sierra
 
 
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Nature Noir: A Park Ranger's Patrol in the Sierra [Hardcover]

Jordan Fisher Smith (Author)
4.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (30 customer reviews)


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Book Description

February 8, 2005
Nature Noir is the intensely original story -- part Edward Abbey, part James Ellroy -- of Jordan Fisher Smith's fourteen years as a park ranger on forty-eight miles of Sierra Nevada river canyons. The gorgeous government-owned land along the American River that Fisher Smith and his band of fellow rangers have pledged to protect is (think Catch-22) condemned to be inundated by a huge dam. As Smith learns from his first day on patrol, the provisional quality of life here attracts the marginal and the pure crazy. Ranger work, in this place where wildness tends toward the human kind, includes encounters with armed miners who scour canyons for gold, drug-addled squatters, and extreme recreators who enjoy combining motorcycles, parachutes, and high bridges. Nature Noir reveals some startling truths about park rangering on America's public lands. In one heart-stopping scene, Smith comes across the corpse of a woman runner, killed and partly eaten by a mountain lion -- the first Californian to die in that way since the nineteenth century. Elsewhere, the predator on the loose may be human, and Smith goes looking for the bones of a long-missing woman in the surreal landscape around a half-constructed dam slowly reverting to wild.

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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Slated to be drowned by a dam, the California state park patrolled by the author of this haunting memoir is a "condemned landscape" of gorgeous river canyons hemmed in by exurban sprawl and peopled by eccentric gold miners, squatting families, drug dealers and miscellaneous drunken, gun-waving rowdies, a place where "turkey vultures floated... savoring the hot air for the inevitable attrition of heat, drought and violence." In his 14 years there, first-time author Smith encountered fights, beatings, suicides, daredevil canyon divers and the corpse of a woman jogger killed and half eaten by a cougar. His conflicted task of facilitating the communion of humans with the wilderness while keeping the humans civilized and the wild places wild becomes a mission against the "half-assed and watered-down... gray area" that is the modern world's "perpetual state of uncertainty." The clash of nature and civilization is a resonant theme, but it doesn't of itself yield compelling insights, and sometimes the author's essays add up to little more than shaggy-dog stories. But Smith writes with a novelistic sense of character, atmosphere and pacing, in a prose style that's wonderfully evocative of landscape and its effects on people. It will cause readers to both thrill and shudder at the call of the wild. >
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Review

"Powerful with its intimate knowledge of place, Nature Noir achieves an even deeper mastery with its affection for the people and human histories of that place. Care and respct for a wild landscape attend to every page of this book." —Rick Bass

"Park rangers have one of the tougher jobs our society has yet devised--they come up against all the varieties of human unhappiness that a city policeman encounters, and they come up against nature in all her moods. Both seem amplified in the canyon of the American River that Jordan Fisher Smith writes about with such calm power. This book will tell you things you didn't know, and in a strong and original voice." —Bill McKibben, author of The End of Nature and Enough: Staying Human in an Engineered Age.

"This is a walk in the woods like Thoreau never imagined. I can't make up my mind whether Jordan Fisher Smith is John Muir at the crime scene or Elmore Leonard with a backpack. In any event, this astonishing book, with its brilliant interweaving of murder, irony and natural history, invents a new genre." —Mike Davis, author of City of Quartz and Ecology of Fear.

"Jordan Fisher Smith writes of the present moment as if from some vantage pont in the future. The effect is eerie, and part of what makes Nature Noir so compelling. Smith's is a refreshingly unsentimental kind of truth-telling." —Barry Lopez, author of Arctic Dreams and Of Wolves and Men

"Smith writes with a novelistic sense of character, atmosphere and pacing . . . It will cause readers to both thrill and shudder." Publishers Weekly

"Nature Noir is a stunning work that will appeal on many levels. The descriptions of nature are visceral, often lyrical. The historic and geological details are fascinating. And the suspense is palpable, part murder mystery, part thriller, and part a new genre all its own." --Amy Tan

"Eloquently meditative . . . Smith relishes the physical detail . . . His voice gains authority through its cadence and understatement." --Alan Burdick The New York Times Book Review

"A taut drama . . . Smith's book follows the tradition of nature writers such as Emerson, Thoreau, John Muir and Annie Dillard." --Jennie Yabroff The San Francisco Chronicle

"NATURE NOIR is a nature book unlike any other. . .nuanced. . .infused with wonder. . .the book works in so many ways." --Arthur Salm The San Diego Union-Tribune

"A wonderful antidote to the treacly Ansel Adams image of our parks." --Mark Yost The Wall Street Journal

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 224 pages
  • Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; 1St Edition edition (February 8, 2005)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0618224165
  • ISBN-13: 978-0618224166
  • Product Dimensions: 8.2 x 5.7 x 0.9 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 14.4 ounces
  • Average Customer Review: 4.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (30 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #878,917 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

For 21 years, Jordan Fisher Smith worked as a park and wilderness ranger in California, Idaho, Wyoming, and Alaska. His essays, interviews, and feature articles have appeared in magazines including Discover, Men's Journal, Backpacker, the Los Angeles Times Magazine, Orion, The Sun, and Land & People. His October 2010 Discover feature on Biosphere 2 has been nominated for an ASME (American Society of Magazine Editors) Award. His first book, Nature Noir, was a Booksense Bestseller, Audubon Magazine Editor's Choice, and a San Francisco Chronicle Best Books of 2005 pick. Nature Noir is now a Mariner paperback and an Amazon e-book.

Jordan's work appears in four collections, the most recent of which is THE ILLUMINATED LANDSCAPE: A SIERRA NEVADA ANTHOLOGY (Heyday 2010). He is narrator and principal cast member of the award-winning documentary film "Under Our Skin," now available on Amazon Video on Demand. Under Our Skin made the 2010 Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences Oscar shortlist for Best Documentary Feature. Jordan is currently working on a book about the recent past and future of American wilderness for Random House's Harmony Books imprint. Jordan now writes, speaks, and teaches full-time. He is a single father of two teenagers living in the northern Sierra Nevada. To contact Jordan and learn more about his work, go to www.jordanfishersmith.com

 

Customer Reviews

30 Reviews
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Average Customer Review
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

31 of 33 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars The Ranger's Heart of Darkness, July 22, 2005
This review is from: Nature Noir: A Park Ranger's Patrol in the Sierra (Hardcover)
If you think being a forest ranger is just leading happy people on hikes and lazily watching for fires, think again. Hopefully not all state and national parks present as much danger as California's Auburn State Recreation Area, where Jordan Fisher Smith has collected many years of experience in the dark side of human communion with nature. In America's natural preserves, rangers are getting increasingly caught up in law enforcement scenarios and saving under-prepared suburbanites from nature's challenges. With a ruminative and fast-moving writing style, Smith describes various episodes in which he or his coworkers had to deal with anarchic gold miners along the American River (a few hardy souls still think the gold rush prospector's life is possible), gangsters from a hidden meth lab, gun-toting drifters living in the campgrounds, all types of fights and domestic disputes among park users, and even a woman being killed by a mountain lion.

Mixed into these narratives are discussions by Smith on the true day-to-day life of a California ranger, which features a lot of paperwork as well as hazards both natural and manmade. Smith also embodies a more insidious natural hazard, as he briefly describes his battle with advanced Lyme disease. There is a fair amount of environmental politics and conservationist history in the book, mostly applied to discussions of decades-long plans to dam the American River in the park for flood control and irrigation. This gave Smith and his coworkers a strange sense of risking their lives to protect a condemned and temporary landscape, and this brings on some pretty good philosophy of the civilization vs. wilderness stripe. The end result of all these varied stories, from Smith's direct experience, is a book that offers a surprisingly original mix of true crime, naturalist philosophy, and social observation. It turns out that a park ranger's life can be pretty wild, in all senses of the word. [~doomsdayer520~]
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24 of 26 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars Tells it like it is, no more, no less, June 23, 2005
By 
This review is from: Nature Noir: A Park Ranger's Patrol in the Sierra (Hardcover)
Those of us living in an urban environment tend to romanticize the actually environment thinking of it all as chirping birds and cuddly bunnies (kind of like Bambi without the mom getting shot) - but this is not so. Or at least this is not the view that park ranger Jordan Smith's fourteen year tenure on the American River seems to bare out.

The reflective essays of Nature Noir are grittily human and more often about people in nature than about nature itself. For a book I found browsing through the nature section of the bookstore there was certainly more rape, assault and suicide than I had expected but it would seem that is because there is more of that in our national parks system than I expected.

More than any of those things though, what was most unexpected in the book was the surprisingly hopeful tone of the book in spite of it all. Instead of demoralizing and hopeless Smith doesn't set out to paint a bleak picture of the national parks system but just an accurate one, not shying away from its beauty or its flaws in a way that books by Edward Abbey and Pete Fromm (both who were just seasonal park employees and not year around rangers) don't fully accomplish.
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19 of 21 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars An Opportunity for Wildness, April 23, 2005
This review is from: Nature Noir: A Park Ranger's Patrol in the Sierra (Hardcover)
Most truly fine writers are too dreamy to be much good at anything else. Not that they lack experience, they just lack heroic competence, and generally are confined to the role of (hopefully keen) observer when the stuff hits the fan. The man or woman of action who can write--and the writer who can save your life--is vanishingly rare. Jordan Fisher Smith is that rare exception.

Nature Noir is a memoir of place in the broadest, most catholic sense: people, politics, plants, animals, weather, and geology all are acknowledged as characters in the universal hard-luck drama we call "nature." During the last two decades of the 20th century, a handful of park rangers found themselves in the surreal, tragic, deliciously post-modern situation of risking their lives to enforce the law in a condemned landscape--California's American River canyons. The canyons, already used hard for a hundred years by miners and ranchers, had been bought up by the government as the site for a reservoir that would rise behind the still-incomplete Auburn Dam. When young Fisher Smith's tenure as a ranger on the American River begins, the dam project has stalled, leaving the land in limbo, a temporary place. The pause creates a social vacuum in the American River canyons--an opportunity for wildness--and Nature Noir is about what happens in that vacuum.

Much of what happens is sad and absurd, and Fisher Smith's tale is partly a sympathetic but trenchant commentary on the behavior of modern humans at the edge of civilization. A bridge built to clear the planned reservoir waits for the waters to rise underneath, presenting a spectacularly vertiginous vertical drop that proves irresistible to suicides, stunt drivers, and parachuting chickens, and the rangers are called upon to deal with the grisly post-mortems and shattered Corvettes. Down in the canyons, a Mad Max atmosphere pervades: everyone seems to be armed, drunk, or both; gold miners run afoul of drug dealers, and people get hurt. The place has become both a temporary refuge for society's misfits and a giant salvage operation as opportunists rush to loot the goods before the waters rise. No one wants to risk loving the canyons except, perhaps, the rangers, who always seem to be perversely aware of where they are in relation to the invisible line hundreds of feet above the river: the ultimate water level of the coming reservoir. The more inspiriting elements of Nature Noir are found in Fisher Smith's portrayal of the rangers, each of them--the author included--improvising a raggedy existential heroism to get through the days, the hot, dusty, dangerous work that all suspect may, in the end, be for naught.

Nature Noir is a wild ride, a piercing and unflinching look at contemporary American society's collision with the rest of nature, and ultimately a vector of stubborn hope. No transparent eyeball, Jordan Fisher Smith writes with the authority conferred by a life of action, the perspicacity to see that the action means something, and the artistic talent to convey both action and meaning in compelling story. His style is restrained, matter-of-fact, and when he hits you with lyricism, the effect is stunning: Fisher Smith's description of the body of a woman killed and partially eaten by a mountain lion is unforgettable for, of all things, its startling beauty.

For its precision and nuance, Fisher Smith's language remains concrete and visceral, and the reader is invited--compelled--to join the rangers in the dusty, dangerous canyons. You're there with them, disarming belligerent drunks in the middle of nowhere. You help recover bodies, investigate murders, comfort bereaved families, you point out the wonders of the place and receive blank stares for your effort. You protect this doomed place and the people who come here. Hopelessness and despair lap at you like rising water, and you are tempted to leave, but you remain, risking your life for some stubborn notion of duty, a faint hope of making a difference, because you know that if this isn't good enough, what is? Then, slowly, gradually at first, you start to notice the canyons recovering from their century of exploitation, vegetation is reclaiming eroded hillsides, animals are returning. Given its opportunity, the wildness is creeping back in. At the same time, the good people of California are coming to appreciate the American River canyons as an "accidental wilderness," a place for retreat and recreation, and the political tide has begun to turn against the dam ever being completed.

Climbing above the river into a side slot canyon on a hot summer day's patrol, you find the intricately woven moss nest of a water ouzel, a bird of rivers, the first you have ever seen. Checking the invisible line on the canyon wall far overhead, you realize the place where you are standing, this secret ledge where the bird has chosen to build its nest, could be two hundred fifty feet underwater. Instinctively, just for a moment, you hold your breath.
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Inside This Book (learn more)
First Sentence:
IT WAS MIDSUMMER, a couple of years into my time in the foothills. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
American River, North Fork, Barbara Schoener, Middle Fork, Placer County, Lake Clementine, Bureau of Reclamation, Yankee Jims, Central Valley, Eight Mile Curve, Foresthill Bridge, Mary Murphy, Sierra Nevada, Rattlesnake Jim, Cherokee Bar, United States, Auburn Reservoir, Ricky Marks, Folsom Dam, Folsom Lake, Foresthill Divide, Otter Creek, San Francisco, Forest Lake Christian, Sherm Jeffries
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