Customer Reviews

The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine

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What's the best way to read a book about wines, producers, regions, styles, etc? Cover-to-cover? Episodically? Grab it when you want to do some research on a specific topic? In my own case, it's typically when I crawl into bed because that's about the only time I have to read about my favorite subject.

Whatever your preference, you'll want to read this book when you're in a position to pay attention because it's one of the most entertaining and instructive wine books I've seen in a long time. Jefford is a passionate advocate for non-interventionist winemaking. If anyone else has already invented this term I apologize in advance for the unwitting plagiarism, but he's also a "terroir-ist". God help the hapless winery that allows anything to interfere with the expression of the land in the wine, or commits the cardinal sin of branding. To Jefford, quoting Randall Graham of Bonny Doon, drinking a great wine should be like "shaking hands with a mountain," because you're drinking the very land where the vines grow, not the attenuated expression of a winemaker's ego.

The New France is Jeffford's paean to French winemakers who share his perspective on quality. While I don't really regard it as a book for beginners, its greatest utility comes from snapshot reviews of hundreds of producers across the major wine growing regions of France. Jefford gives them anywhere from zero to three stars to indicate their merit based on his terroir-at-all-costs preferences. So if your tastes agree with his, you'll find his capsule summaries of tremendous value.

A quick example might help make this a little clearer. Recently, one of my favorite stores, the Wine Library in Springfield, NJ, ran an ad for William Fevrre Chablis Fourcharme 1er Cru 1999 for what seemed like a very low price. I love white Burgundy, but I don't often buy it because the good stuff is so expensive. Thinking this sounded like a great deal, but wary of getting bushwhacked as can often happen in Burgundy, I grabbed my edition of The New France and turned to the section on Chablis (treated here like a separate and equal wine growing region, which I heartily applaud). I was gratified to learn that this producer earned Jefford's highest 3 star designation, particularly since 1998 when it changed ownership. Even more impressive, he cited this specific premier cru vineyard because it abuts the grand cru Preuses and is particularly rich as a result. Well, folks, all I can tell you is he nailed this sonufagun. I bought two cases.

What qualifies Fevre as the best domaine in Chablis according to Jefford? Meticulous attention to the picking and sorting of the fruit, low yields, minimal manipulation and very little new oak all allow the wines to speak for themselves.

The book is organized around each of the major French winegrowing regions. Each chapter features: an introduction to the terroir of each region and the impact it has on the wines; brief profiles of Jefford's favorite winemakers; a section called The Adventure of the Land in which he delves deeply into the characteristics of the various appellations within the region; a beautiful and extremely detailed color map of the AOC's; a section labeled "Flak", which deals objectively with contemporary issues and problems facing the region; and finally the profiles and ratings of the wineries themselves. His somewhat fawning portraits make it clear Jefford's idolizes the winemakers who do it right.

Of course, as is the case with any wine writer or critic, the proof is in the drinking: yours that is. Jefford loves garage wines and appears to believe that on balance the changes wrought in Bordeaux by Robert Parker over the last 20 years and the rise of the garagists in the late `90's are helping the entire region to raise its standards. I'm more of a traditionalist myself, but we're all going to have to wait another 10-20 years for the Bordeaux of the late "90's or 2000 vintages to age for us to understand who will ultimately win this debate.

Overall, I believe this is an extremely valuable book to have in your wine library. It's full of new insights, it's beautifully written and illustrated, and it will both inform and challenge your ideas of what constitutes wine quality in France and anywhere else for that matter. Andrew Jefford writes a column in Decanter, the outstanding British wine magazine, and now that I've spent time with The New France, his column is always the second thing I read each month (after Michael Broadbent's column, of course!).

This is a fine book, an excellent introduction to contemporary French wine. Jefford's initial discussions of "appelation" and "terroir" are profound while at the same time approachable for beginners. His use of commentary by experienced vintners helps round out the presentation. And the inclusion of "flak" sections for the major appelations gives a balance to the book's account. These sections deal with some of the various misgivings and criticisms that vintners, growers and consumers have with the regulations and the general wine-making practice. So despite the privilege Jefford accords "terroir," he presents (and sometimes even supports) arguments against its hegemony.

A great read and reference as to what is going on in French Wine today. Covers all the regions and introduces the reader to the regional personalities and the best producers. You gotta add this one to your wine library.

You might buy this book because it's a beautiful coffee table book - the beautiful pictures and the layout...Or you might buy it because it's great for reference material.

If you love wine, simply buy it for that reason alone. It is very up-to-date, the author, no stranger to French wine, a true professional, uncovers the latest trends and troubles in the various wine regions of France. He talks with growers and vintners, producers and negociants - providing perspective from all angles.

Beyond reading the latest issue of Decanter or Wine Spectator, this is perhaps the most informative and concise manner of learning about the "now" of French wine. Like other Mitchell Beazley publications, the focus here is on the great presentation and the high level of scholarship/research/journalism. This book will nourish your curiosity.

I am a sommelier in a fine dining restaurant, and while I have found this book particularly helpful, my staff seems to have some issues with it. We used it as a textbook, covering one region per week. I like that it allows me to really visualize the vineyards and understand why the wines are what they are. In the Northern Rhône section, he talks about the steep, terraced vineyards and the stiff Mistral winds... when you understand where the wine is coming from, the wine itself makes sense. For my waiters, though, it was just too much stuffing, and they were unable to extract the information that I wanted them to. Perhaps novices need something more factual and to-the-point rather than an in-depth, evocative narrative? At any rate, I strongly suggest this book as a tool to delve deeper into French wine for those who already have a broad knowledge base. It's not for the beginner though.

For the people like me who doesn't have any knowledge about France wines, it is the best book to start with.

You may consider this a sad admission but I have read many books on wine. This one is truly exceptional. A practical guide produced with passion, knowledge and insight. A defense of both culture, quality and pleasure.
Mr. Jefford is civilized, understands his subject and writes extremely well.
BUY IT !

I found this book as a recommendation in Raj Parr's new book, which is also quite good. The vigneron profiles are excellent and focus on people doing interesting work, like Jacques Puffeney in the Jura. The author has a solid writing voice. It reminds me a bit of Hugh Johnson from his World Atlas of Wine - personal, informed, thoughtful. The best wine book purchase of the year for me.

This is an absolutely outstanding resource and a pleasure to read. Mr. Jefford's wine descriptions are inspired and his writing style is captivating.

An excellent book that I had seen at a friends. Ideal for those like me interested in French wine. A different approach than some similar books where the author brings to life the personalities involved.
It arrived promptly and well packaged so many thanks for that.
One thing I would mention are your delivery charges. I consider them high.
I have also bought CDs from you with the same comment.

You should be aware that there are others 'in the marketplace' who offer free delivery. So beware as you may lose me and others because of this and this only.

Bernie Besnard 11 July 2008