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North of Naples, South of Rome [Paperback]

Paolo Tullio (Author)
4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (4 customer reviews)


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Book Description

September 11, 1999
Since childhood, Paolo Tullio has returned each year to his hometown of Gallinaro, to the labyrinthine nest of his relations and to the passionate people of his valley. North of Naples, South of Rome describes a hysterically chaotic wine competition, samples the Italian cantina, instructs on marketplace haggling, and investigates the charms and scams of Naples. It looks with disbelief at a tortuous bureaucracy, observes the role of the church in daily life, and explains how to win a local election and how to roast a pig. With fascinating detours on local buildings, history, folklore, and fashion, the reader tours a carousel of picnics, feasts, and fireworks, led by the delightful pen and ink drawings of Tullio's wife, renowned watercolorist Susan Morley.

This warmhearted tour of a charming, intimate world is as enticing and original as A Year in Provence and Under the Tuscan Sun.

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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Tullio's opinionated, convivial, sometimes irreverent guide to Italy and the Italians, the basis for a six-part PBS television series, takes us down byways rarely glimpsed by tourists. Though he grew up in England and lives in Ireland, he and his Irish wife visit Italy every year, especially his picturesque native village of Gallinaro, situated amid Apennine peaks southeast of Rome in the Comino Valley, the centerpiece of this leisurely travelogue. Tullio heedlessly peppers his narrative with brash generalizations, some commonplace, many questionable: "Italian men love to cook"; "Italians... are animated, extrovert and, above all, extreme"; "There is a deep vein of insecurity running through Italian life, a racial memory of a history of constant flux." His Italy is at once reassuringly familiar and surprisingly new. Hunting, we learn, is pervasive; over half of adult males have guns; and Italians eat songbirds. Furthermore, he asserts, "most Italians do not speak good Italian," which to them is a second language, the first being their regional dialect. A knowledgeable guide, Tullio savors the chaos of Naples; acts as a judge in a wine competition; serves up grass-roots gastronomical tips on how to make such staples as pasta, sausage and liqueur; and visits the cottage where his father, an Italian soldier, hid from the Germans for five months in 1943-1944, after Italy broke with the Axis powers. His weightier observations deal with the dominance of local politics over Rome, the current anticorruption campaign and the diminishing hold of the church on secular life. Evocative sketches by his wife, artist Susan Morley, neatly complement this serendipitous tour.
Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

From Library Journal

In his delightful memoir of life in the Comino Valley of Italy, Tullio, a native of Gallinaro, shares his most beloved memories of his time there as a young boy and his subsequent yearly summer visits. From his description of the festival of St. Gerard to a midnight picnic with a bonfire that burned three feet under melted snow, Tullio's amusing narrative of the people and countryside captures the quirks and nuances of small-town life. He also treats more serious moments in history?as when he describes his strong attachment to the cottage where his family hid from the Germans in World War II. Accompanied by pen-and-ink sketches by his wife, renowned watercolorist Susan Morley, these hilarious tales will leave readers longing for a journey to Italy. Recommended for public libraries.?Stephanie Papa, Baltimore Cty. Circuit Court Law Lib., Towson, MD
Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 256 pages
  • Publisher: St. Martin's Griffin; 1st edition (September 11, 1999)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0312243170
  • ISBN-13: 978-0312243173
  • Product Dimensions: 8.2 x 5.5 x 0.7 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 10.6 ounces
  • Average Customer Review: 4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (4 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,530,671 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

4 Reviews
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Average Customer Review
4.2 out of 5 stars (4 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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5 of 5 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars A soulful guide for the expatriated Italian., October 19, 1999
This review is from: North of Naples, South of Rome (Paperback)
After thirty years I returned to Ciociaria and my little town of Fontechiari. With Tullio's book under my arm I was able to fill in the years and heighten the anticipation. My companion and I stopped by to say hello; too bad Tullio was in Japan this year but Mario offered us a glass of Compari at his bar and Maurizio told us he would be open on Thursday for pizza. With my mother's Italian we talked a little of life, Tullio and food, just two strangers having a drink in little town called Gallinaro in Ciociaria.

Not your typical tourist destination without the family connection but this part of Italy is full of hidden treasures like the Cyclopean walls above ancient Arpino, Vicalvi Norman ruins, and beautiful comunes like San Donato Val di Comino. Tullio's gives the reader insight into the local Italian character, history and politics combined with the how-to of regional cuisine. This book gave me the interest and desire to explore an area of Italy few tourists (except expatriates)rarely see.

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3 of 4 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars an invigorating honest look at life north of naples, September 23, 1999
Tullio writes a frank look at life not only through the ages in the camino valley but of the roman catholic church, of politics and of the differences in north of italy and the kingdom of naples, one of the two sicilys. He talks about food and even gives recipes on how to make sausage, tomato sauce and liquers;the importance of food, noise and celebration, especially in the provincial towns, which seem no longer to be so provincial. The book extols the joue de vivre of the italian temperment and what's best he doesn't mince words. The book is entertaining while informative, a look at yesterday and a look at today with perhaps a tiny glimpse of the tomorrow one only hopes is kept at bay long enough to climb those mountains and get to the marketplace on Monday in many of the hill towns.
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5.0 out of 5 stars North of Naples, South of Rome, October 11, 2000
By A Customer
This review is from: North of Naples, South of Rome (Paperback)
Grazie, signore!

Like Tullio, my husband is an expatriate from the Valle di Comino. This was a great book about the valley - full of history and insight. It helped me, as an American outsider, to understand and appreciate the culture and traditions of La Ciociaria. Plus, it was a kick to read about some of the places we visited while there!

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Inside This Book (learn more)
First Sentence:
The valley that I also call mine, the Comio Valley, is the shape of a lozenge aligned east-west with two easy entrances, one to the west, and one to the south. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
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Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Comino Valley, San Gerardo, San Donato, Monte Cicuto, Ponte Melfa, Christian Democrats, Catholic Church, Kingdom of Naples, Papal States, Abruzzi National Park, Chapel of the Baby Jesus, Lombard League, San Nazario, Ministry of Fine Arts, Roman Empire, San Biagio, San Gennaro, Second Republic
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