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Old Kyoto: The Updated Guide to Traditional Shops, Restaurants, and Inns
 
 
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Old Kyoto: The Updated Guide to Traditional Shops, Restaurants, and Inns [Paperback]

Diane Durston (Author), Donald Richie (Foreword)
4.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (29 customer reviews)

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Book Description

April 1, 2005
A completely revised version of the classic guidebook to Kyoto, with a foreword by Donald Richie.

Down the cobbled paths and behind the tranquil noren curtains of Kyoto, the old way of life goes on, nurtured in the restrained furnishings of the traditional inns and in the old shops where fine handmade items still add a touch of quality to life.

Since the first edition appeared in 1986, this lovingly written travelogue-cum-guidebook has become de rigueur for knowledgeable travelers seeking to find "the real Kyoto" behind the modern face of the city's constantly changing boulevards. Old Kyoto focuses on the family establishments that have been in business for at least a hundred years, and in some cases for over ten generations. Astonishingly, many of the old shops and inns of Kyoto can still be found on narrow backstreets, under the heavy, tiled rooftops of traditional machiya dwellings. Here, the adventurous traveler will uncover treasures: the way in which a hand-crafted calligraphy brush is bound, a miniature garden tended, a bamboo basket woven.

For critics and travelers alike, Old Kyoto has long been regarded the essential guidebook to Japan's most cherished city. This second edition of Old Kyoto is completely updated. Shops have been added, and maps, prices, directions, descriptions, and general information have all been thoroughly revised.

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Editorial Reviews

Review


"The recommended establishments in Old Kyoto are so consistently good .... and Diane Durston has woven history and legend into her descriptions of Kyoto's finest and oldest establishments." -The New York Times


"Diane Durston ... leads us into the secrets and hidden beauties of the city with a grace and warmth that are themselves reflective of the vanishing traditions they celebrate. Whenever anyone says he or she wants to see the 'true soul of Kyoto,' I say, 'Buy this book!'" -Pico Iyer


"The wonder is that no one has done what Diane Durston has done, and the delight is that Diane Durston has done it so well." -The Japan Times


"Durston's book is an eloquent look at seven neighborhoods where everyday life in Japan continues despite the crush of modernity...." -Seattle Post-Intelligencer


"This lovingly written travelogue-cum-guidebook has become de rigueur for knowledgeable travelers seeking to find 'the real Kyoto'." -Rafu Shimpo


From the Author

DIANE DURSTON is a writer, lecturer, and consultant on Japan and Asian cultures. She has written three books on Kyoto, where she lived for eighteen years, KYOTO: SEVEN PATHS TO THE HEART OF THE CITY and THE LIVING TRADITIONS OF OLD KYOTO are her two other publications. Durston now lives in Portland, Oregon.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 248 pages
  • Publisher: Kodansha USA; 2 edition (April 1, 2005)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 4770029942
  • ISBN-13: 978-4770029942
  • Product Dimensions: 7.1 x 5.1 x 0.6 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 10.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (29 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #60,968 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

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Average Customer Review
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43 of 44 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars "Down the cobbled paths, and behind the tranquil curtain...", May 3, 2005
This review is from: Old Kyoto: The Updated Guide to Traditional Shops, Restaurants, and Inns (Paperback)
Stepping off the train in Kyoto for the first time can be a disappointing experience for many travelers. People who have fallen in love with the fairy tale of Japan's old capitol, who have absorbed "Memoirs of a Geisha," and swooned at photographs of golden temples, paper lanterns, and beautiful, elusive Geisha fleeing quickly through close, wooded back-allies, are shocked to discover a modern, dirty city, overrun with power lines, buses and hotels. Furthermore, it is stacked to the gills with tourists, each seeking their own Kyoto-of-my-dreams. Where are the secret spaces, the ancient houses and quiet tea houses steeped in history? Diane Durston can tell you.

If you are anything like me, "Old Kyoto: A Guide to Traditional Shops, Restaurants and Inns" is the guide to the Kyoto you are looking for. A fascinating and delightful guide to the relics of old Kyoto, the stuff that you see on the post cards but can't seem to find in the city itself, Diane Durston has dredged the sludge of a modern city to find things like Nishiharu, a small tatami-room shop selling authentic Ukiyo-e prints with a proprietor who greets each guest with a cup a tea and a smile, or Ippo-Do, a 140-year old tea shop who's name ("One Promise") and business is based on a promise to an old customer that they would never sell anything but tea, and Tawara-ya, an inn so beautiful that when the King of Sweden stayed there, he was late for his official tour do to lingering too long in the morning light of the garden.

As a guide, "Old Kyoto" is divided into regions, Central Kyoto, Eastern Kyoto, Western Kyoto, Northern Kyoto and Southern Kyoto, and then showcasing a few treasures of each region, splitting evenly amongst craftwear, antiques, Japanese-style hotels, restaurants and food-sellers. Many of these shops are tiny, without even a sign out in front to advertise their business. Some carry ancient placards announcing them as official providers to the Emperor of their unique offering. All of them are tempting enough to include more than a few when visiting Kyoto.

Each entry is a loving, well-written essay, and Diane Durston paints an affectionate picture of the store and its proprietors. You can tell that she carries each of these shops in her heart, and one shop, a traditional bucket-maker, is included in fond remembrance, even though the craftsman himself has passed away with no one to pass his craft to.

In addition to the shop introductions, there are a few extras, such as a guide to walks through old Kyoto, and recommended day-trips to places such as Fushimi and Uji which are easily accessible from Kyoto city. While these are a nice addition, there are other, more-inclusive guide books for this kind of thing.

"Old Kyoto" is an essential guide to anyone seeking that city that they have read so much about. It is still there, you just have to know where too look for it. Fortunately for us, Diana Durston knows where to look, and has kindly shown us the way.
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82 of 90 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars You should go to Kyoto, not to Tokyo., April 3, 2004
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In Japan, the most famouse city will be Tokyo. But I as Japanese do not recommend Tokyo very much, because Tokyo is the city like N.Y or London, big city but can not feel Japanese truth historical things.

If foreigners go to Japan, I recommend Kyoto. Though Kyoto is the big city more than 1000thousands people are living, but the scenery will be felt Japanese history to us, there are many temples or the Japanese statue etc.

For instance, in Kyoto the bulding like 10 floor is banned. Because the scenery will be bad for high building.

And Japan have four seasons, winter fall spiring summer,called to Siki. The place that we can enjoy the four seasons must be Kyoto.
In spring, cherry bloom here and there, in summer fresh green trees will help the contrast to Japanese temple color like the gold color of Kinakakugi. In winter snow will add shiny white color to the historical temples.

The historical foods in Kyoto is good too. For instance Yatsuhashi, that will be unfamiliar foods for foreigners. But that is very dericiouse and sweety. should eat that.

Thank you for reading poor English.

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30 of 30 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Kyoto's Finest, October 3, 2003
Are you visiting Kyoto? You'll find that this book will help you to see the old traditional Kyoto. It gives some history, background, and cultural information on old Kyoto. The meat of this book gives information on shops, restaurants, and inns which represent old Kyoto. Each one covered gets about two or three pages of description, so you can get a lot of information about each place featured, and you can really understand why each place is special. Because the descriptions are so complete, you can enjoy reading about these places even if you aren't going to Kyoto.

I'm a resident of Kyoto, and I find that most of the places listed in this book aren't in the mainstream guides, so if you pick up this book in addition to a mainstream guide, there won't be much overlapping. Also the places list here really give you a feel for old Kyoto. If you have a few days in Kyoto, you should definitely stop by a few of these places.

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Inside This Book (learn more)
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First Sentence:
Dusk settles over the backstreets of Kyoto, tucking in the rows of old wooden houses for another peaceful night's sleep. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
aburi mochi, kaiseki meal, geisha quarter, temple food, tea utensils, folk toys, ceremonial tea, torii gate, miso sauce, clay dolls, antique textiles, buckwheat noodles, old shops
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
World War, Japan Sea, Kamigamo Shrine, Kamo River, Kyoto Station, Kiyomizu Temple, New Year, Fushimi Inari, Middle Ages, Ota Shrine, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Gion-machi Kitagawa, Takano River, Yasaka Shrine, Day Trips, Higashiyama Mountains, Imamiya Shrine, Kawai Kanjiro, Lake Biwa, New York, Aizen Kobo, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, Atago Shrine, Eastern Kyoto, Keihan Line
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