Frequently Bought Together
Product Features
|
Product Details
Would you like to update product info or give feedback on images?
|
Product Description
From the Manufacturer
This precision-built filing guide gives consistent, accurate sharpening results comparable to that of a motorized grinder for a fraction of the cost.
Product Description
Precision-built filing guide for consistent sharpening comparable to motorized grinders for a lot less money. Mounts to most chainsaw bars and file chains instlled on saw.
Customer Reviews
|
Share your thoughts with other customers:
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
221 of 222 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
Efficient Cut, Good touch-up.,
By
This review is from: Oregon 23736A Professional Chain Saw Bar-Mount Filing Guide (Lawn & Patio)
(Helpful? Not? Please vote, so I know someone is reading these :^) I realize this isn't for everyone. I cut 5-10 cords of big wood each year. For most people, a hand file and/or just keeping two or three chains will more than suffice. If, however, you cut more than a couple limbs and saplings per year, you're already familiar with the chain sharpening gambit. The saw shops put the grinding wheel edge on your chain, and it cuts very well, and then it dulls. If you then try to touch up the teeth in the field, you realize the round files don't work with the straight gullet the saw shop's machine put on there. Then you start filing ... and filing ... Lots of folks keep 2 or 3 chains sharpened, and just swap chains when one dulls. Usually, after three chains, you're through cutting anyway (although this is often not the case for me). When done, you'd take them all to the shop at the same time, and you're ready for next time. This is neither practical nor thrifty, thus enter the Oregon Professional series filing guide. You can set filing angles on two planes, ensure equal tooth length, equal gullet depth and equal raker height. That's all you need for a heckuva sharp chain. This is a knockoff (and superior to, IMHO) the old Granberg 104A File Guide (Sears also labeled them). Both are fine, the new Oregon has a second clamp that holds the chain in place for you. The Granberg lacks this. It saves your fingertips a lot of abuse. The new Granberg 106B looks like it has the same sort of clamp, but I can't vouch for it yet. The old Granberg I have gives me fits with the slide bushing sometimes, though it usually works *really* well too. No chain clamp makes it less stable though, thus my filing angles are less consistent.
I would, since it's free, call into Oregon and get their .PDF (Adobe Acrobat file) of how to properly file your chain. It takes about 15 minutes to absorb the information about "up angle", etc., for your particular chain, that you probably don't already know. It's on their website too. Filing "up" means that you file about 3 to 5 degrees up through the gullet of the tooth. Oregon's little document is a big help in understanding how to set up your file guide for a killer edge. Use the filing guide to set up a "hungry" chain (lower the raker teeth) or a ripping chain (square tooth) or a soft wood chain or a hard wood chain ... whatever you want. I detract for a lack of rigidity. I would ideally like to have a BIG, HEAVY piece of equipment in my shop, and this guide out in the woods. The slide/guide is a little flexible, and will definitely let you know when your file is getting old or tanked up with metal. I use this on the tailgate of my truck fairly well, but I'm better and faster just clamping the whole saw in my vice at home (by the bar). You must file both sides of the chain, thus you will reverse two settings on the guide when you change sides (up-angle and tooth angle). This is another reason why I recommend the free Oregon .PDF or fax they'll send you. All in all, this is for the chainsaw junkie or enthusiast. If you're a 'once-a-year' guy or gal, just buy the file handle with the lines on it for $3, and take your machine to the shop when the teeth get too snaggled and of different lengths. The $40-$50 you spend here is only worth it if you cut a lot. At $6 per sharpening, you can see that most saw owners may take a few years to recoup the cost. A 20" chain takes me around 15 minutes to sharpen (and I may be a little slow). Still, if you don't have the patience to sharpen your own lawn mower blades, you probably don't have the patience for the setup and repetition this operation requires either. The upside is, if you do use this mill, your chain will outperform the old file-handle-with-lines around 2 : 1 ... no joke. If you've never had a well-sharpened chain, it's like tasting chocolate for the first time ... keep the bar tip out of the dirt, and the edge this guide gives you cuts and lasts as well or better than the chain grinders' edges. If you have spent over $40 in one season for chain sharpening, you should own one of these. I'd rather work 15 minutes for a sharp chain, than spend 2 hours at the shop while they get around to it ...
41 of 41 people found the following review helpful:
2.0 out of 5 stars
Outclassed by the competition,
By
Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Oregon 23736A Professional Chain Saw Bar-Mount Filing Guide (Lawn & Patio)
I will pick up from the fine review by "Master of None" who states he is familiar only with an old Granberg model and did not have the current Granberg 106B.
I do have the new Granberg 106B Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B and have found it to be excellent. Before I bought the Granberg 106B I used the Oregon 23736A for about 80 filings and I have now done about 100 filings with the Granberg 106B, so I am pretty familiar with both jigs. The quick report is that I agree with other reviewers that the Oregon jig is flimsy. I will add that it is also jerky, slow, and strange. I find the Granberg 106B to be rigidly built, streamlined for speed, and with an excellent height gauge that I use to set the file height exactly. Both jigs have insufficient documentation. As I write this review, I can see both jigs, but you can see almost all of the important details in the Amazon pictures. Both jigs have the same 8" file, so you can judge the different scales of the photographs. The Granberg is much more rigid because it is very compact and has all-metal construction with solid, thick walls. I think you can see from the pictures that the Oregon is quite a bit taller, which naturally makes it more limber, and the frame distorts in normal use. The Granberg has fully solid sidewalls with no light-weighting. On the Oregon picture, you can see three panels of light-weighting that make this tall frame even more flimsy. The Granberg frame holds its shape when you tighten the body screw. Because the frame keeps its shape, you can easily keep the chain centered under the pivot point of the rotating frame and go side to side with no adjustment of the stop screw. With the Oregon jig, it visibly distorts with normal torque of the body srew, making it hard to match the cain location with the pivot point of the rotating filing frame. With the Oregon, I always had to adjust the stop screw when I went side-to-side leading to longer filing time because of this extra operation. Although it is painted black like the metal parts, the Oregon filing frame is made of plastic, giving it a mushy feel. This leads to less accuracy and longer filing time. On the Oregon, I could hold the cutter lengths to no better than 0.015". The Granberg has an all-metal filing frame and has a crisp feel. I routinely control the lengths to three times better at about 0.005"--as good as factory-ground chain. With the more rigid filing frame you get a nearly abrupt stop and fewer strokes are made with contact against the stop screw. Since most of the time your file has a full bite, you will benefit from shorter filing time. Notice that the chain clamp on the Granberg is rather short at about 1" while the Oregon clamp is roughly twice as long. Also (Sorry, you cannot see this), there is problem with the bottom feet of the Oregon clamps. The Oregon clamp feet are just bent metal and do not provide sufficient control to prevent the clamp from pitching forward and back and catching on the cutters as the chain is advanced. The feet of the Granberg clamps have a special design feature for precise registration. With the Granberg, I can pull the chain smoothly through the clamps for both 0.325" and 3/8" chain. In contrast, the Oregon clamps tend to hang up on the cutters when I advance the chain. This problem is especially bad with 0.325" chain. The red hex nut you see on the top of the Oregon frame is the height adjustment. The hex head dial is too small to achieve accuracy, the numbers are tiny, and the red-on-red marks have low contrast. Each of the six sides is divided into two sections each amounting to 0.009" of height adjustment, so you have twelve sections each of 0.009" making a total of 0.108" height change per revolution. OK, why use a hex head dial instead of the customary round dial? Why design for units of 0.009"? It is a bit hard to see in the picture, but the Granberg height adjustment has a generous head size and, thankfully, is a round dial. The raised marks are easy to read with the gray metal giving sharp shadows for good contrast. One rotation is exactly 0.100" and you have ten clearly marked divisions of 0.010". This math does not hurt my head. I can easily read within a division to achieve an accuracy of 0.002". The Granberg height adjustment is very handy and I use it to set my file height at the start of every filing, so my cutters always have exactly right hook. I do like the knurled retaining nut on the Oregon jig, and replaced one of the wingnuts on my Granberg with a 3/4" check nut 3/4 (A), 7/32 (B), 1/2 (C), 5/32 (D), 10-32 thd., Steel, Check Nut, Reid Select for faster side-to-side switching. Did I mention that the Granberg is lighter by 1/3 and costs less? In summary, the Oregon 23736A is outclassed by the Granberg 106B.
11 of 11 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
good buy,
Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Oregon 23736A Professional Chain Saw Bar-Mount Filing Guide (Lawn & Patio)
excellent product! I have been using my original model for 5 yrs now and have always had the complant that it is a little flimsy when filing and the professional model is awesome. no flex at all. much better than lightweight model. take it from a landscaper. well worth it if you are wanting to sharpen your own chains. instructions are fairly easy to follow even for a beginner. oregon has an excellent website also that helps. If you take your time and learn how to use this tool properly you will be pleased with the cut!
Share your thoughts with other customers: Create your own review
|
|
