Over-the-Rhine was once the heart of a thriving German-American neighborhood in Cincinnati and home to two dozen breweries. It's also a dilapidated district and 19th century architectural time capsule that civic-minded Cincinnatians are trying to preserve while making it into a livable urban neighborhood. The rise and fall of OTR is the subject of Michael Morgan's dynamite short history, "Over-the-Rhine: When Beer Was King."
Based mostly on primary sources, Morgan tells the story of how German immigrants settled in this enclave north of the Miami and Erie Canal (the "Rhine") in the 1840s and 1850s. They brought a gift which we cherish still to this day: lager beer. Many brewers grew wealthy and built brewhouses that were Romanesque Revival palaces. OTR flourished with thousands of beer gardens, saloons, and entertainment venues.
However, there were nativist forces at work to undermine German society and its beer-soaked culture. Morgan writes, "Before gay marriage, abortion rights, civil rights or the Vietnam War, beer became the focal point of a much broader social debate." That was temperance, the social reform movement that gave us Prohibition.
Prohibition devastated Cincinnati's rich brewing tradition. A handful of breweries reopened after 1933, but the industry - and OTR - never recovered. The last brewery closed in the 1950s; the local brewers found they couldn't compete with the emerging national brands. There are today only two active breweries in OTR: the Schoenling Brewery, where the Boston Beer Company makes Sam Adams, and the Christian Moerlein Brewing Company, which in 2010 took over the former Kauffman Brewery (a building that was, even more recently, the Husman Potato Chip Factory).
When I visited Cincinnati on a book tour in 2009, Mike, his wife Amy, and Steve Hampton of the Over-the-Rhine Brewery District took me on a fun tour of Cincinnati's dilapidated breweries. Especially fascinating were the tunnels under the streets to move beer to bottling plants, as the law once required brewers to keep their brewing and bottling plants separate. They lead the Prohibition Resistance Tour, and Morgan also organizes the annual Bockfest.
Morgan saves the best for last in the final chapter, "Rot and Redemption," about the struggle to preserve the crumbling buildings of the Brewery District. Half of the historic buildings have been lost - and most of the rest are in danger from neglect. "They are the stories of battles over the vision of what to do with the deteriorating remains of a vanquished culture," Morgan writes. The only thing missing from the book is a modern map of OTR to help explore the neighborhood.
Today OTR feels largely abandoned except for the homeless. But there are glimmers of hope: Main Street and Vine Street have attracted new residents and businesses, and Findlay Market is serving as an anchor to a local community while attracting thousands of shoppers. Advocates are pushing for a modern streetcar line that can easily bring people into the neighborhood.
Beer - and people - are slowly returning to Over-the-Rhine. Repurposing old structures for modern needs is possible; just look at Cincinnati's stunning Union Terminal. The question is, will there be enough urban redevelopment in time to save the decaying Over-the-Rhine district, or is it too little, too late?