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Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion [Hardcover]

Elizabeth L. Cline
4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (73 customer reviews)

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Book Description

June 14, 2012
Until recently, Elizabeth Cline was a typical American consumer. She’d grown accustomed to shopping at outlet malls, discount stores like T.J. Maxx, and cheap but trendy retailers like Forever 21, Target, and H&M. She was buying a new item of clothing almost every week (the national average is sixty-four per year) but all she had to show for it was a closet and countless storage bins packed full of low-quality fads she barely wore—including the same sailor-stripe tops and fleece hoodies as a million other shoppers. When she found herself lugging home seven pairs of identical canvas flats from Kmart (a steal at $7 per pair, marked down from $15!), she realized that something was deeply wrong.

Cheap fashion has fundamentally changed the way most Americans dress. Stores ranging from discounters like Target to traditional chains like JCPenney now offer the newest trends at unprecedentedly low prices. Retailers are pro­ducing clothes at enormous volumes in order to drive prices down and profits up, and they’ve turned clothing into a disposable good. After all, we have little reason to keep wearing and repairing the clothes we already own when styles change so fast and it’s cheaper to just buy more.

But what are we doing with all these cheap clothes? And more important, what are they doing to us, our society, our environment, and our economic well-being?

In Overdressed, Cline sets out to uncover the true nature of the cheap fashion juggernaut, tracing the rise of budget clothing chains, the death of middle-market and independent retail­ers, and the roots of our obsession with deals and steals. She travels to cheap-chic factories in China, follows the fashion industry as it chases even lower costs into Bangladesh, and looks at the impact (both here and abroad) of America’s drastic increase in imports. She even explores how cheap fashion harms the charity thrift shops and textile recyclers where our masses of cloth­ing castoffs end up.

Sewing, once a life skill for American women and a pathway from poverty to the middle class for workers, is now a dead-end sweatshop job. The pressures of cheap have forced retailers to drastically reduce detail and craftsmanship, making the clothes we wear more and more uniform, basic, and low quality. Creative inde­pendent designers struggle to produce good and sustainable clothes at affordable prices.

Cline shows how consumers can break the buy-and-toss cycle by supporting innovative and stylish sustainable designers and retailers, refash­ioning clothes throughout their lifetimes, and mending and even making clothes themselves.

Overdressed
will inspire you to vote with your dollars and find a path back to being well dressed and feeling good about what you wear.

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Editorial Reviews

Review

“Cline is the Michael Pollan of fashion…Hysterical levels of sartorial consumption are terrible for the environment, for workers, and even, ironically, for the way we look.”
—Michelle Goldberg, Newsweek/The Daily Beast
 
“How did Americans end up with closets crammed with flimsy, ridiculously cheap garments? Elizabeth Cline travels the world to trace the rise of fast fashion and its cost in human misery, environmental damage, and common sense.”
—Katha Pollitt, columnist for The Nation
 
Overdressed is eye-opening and definitely turns retailing on its head. Cline’s insightful book reveals the serious problems facing our industry today. The tremendous values and advantages of domestic production are often ignored in favor of a price point that makes clothing disposable.”
—Erica Wolf, executive director, Save the Garment Center
 

About the Author

Elizabeth Cline has written for AMCtv.com, The Daily Beast, New York Magazine, Popular Science, The New Republic, The Village Voice, and seedmagazine.com. She lives in Brooklyn, New York. Visit overdressedthebook.com.

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 256 pages
  • Publisher: Portfolio Hardcover (June 14, 2012)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1591844614
  • ISBN-13: 978-1591844617
  • Product Dimensions: 6.4 x 0.9 x 9.3 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 14.9 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (73 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #12,263 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
81 of 85 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars read along with "Supersize Me" June 19, 2012
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase
I had the same sense of revulsion reading this book as I did reading "Supersize Me" (which is more or less the food version of this book) and I see fast food and "fast fashion" as indicative of the same lack of basic skills. We don't typically cook -- and therefore don't recognize quality in food. Few people sew anymore, and therefore don't recognize quality in clothing. The high cost of housing means that cost becomes more important both for food and clothing -- and quality suffers. The manufacturing chain makes adjustments to accommodate the desire for more of everything. And then follow the TV shows: Biggest Loser for the food problem; and Hoarders for the clothing (and everything else) problem.
Oddly enough, the bad construction of cheap clothes puts consumers into the endless cycle of buying more of everything. If you can't fix your shoes or alter your clothes, then you need multiples of everything just to make sure something lasts through the season. Expectations of grooming and dress have become demanding, which means that there is more acceptance of cheap clothing. 60 years ago when every working woman wore a suit every day to work, her entire wardrobe was different. She didn't have 22 tops and 14 skirts -- she had five suits. And yet we see the connection between clothing and our behavior-- schools that expect specific behaviors usually have specific dress codes. (the author of Supersize Me also comments on how fast food -- and eating in your car -- disrupted the idea of set meal times. )
I am old enough to remember the grand department stores in big cities -- and the expectations both of dress and behavior that accompanied them. The author does not make the connection between larger houses (and greater house payments as proportion of income) and the growth of the shopping mall. Those grand department stores didn't need parking lots -- people took transit and had their purchases delivered by delivery truck (not FedEx). They shopped during the day, not on the way home from work at 8 pm. Our whole society has changed and the way we relate to food and clothing has followed.
This may be one of the first things I've seen that puts a "sustainable, green" cast on clothing consumption though. its ironic that Whole Foods sells cheap -- although organic and fair-traded -- teeshirts in the toiletries aisle. And those items are always manufactured overseas.
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72 of 76 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Think before you buy! June 14, 2012
By BLehner
Format:Hardcover
A century ago people usually had only a handful of garments in their wardrobe. Carefully mended, and handed down, these clothes were never disposed of before literally being worn out. Today the average US citizen buys 65 new pieces of clothing each year. Typically not meant to last, these items will rather be thrown away than repaired or altered, because this would ironically enough be more expensive than buying new ones.
On this premise Elizabeth Cline sets out to explore cheap fashion in her book Overdressed. Revealing the effects of cheap fashion on her own life, her research takes her to the reasons of this development and a possible future in slow (aka local and sustainable) fashion. Both conversationally written and thought-provoking this is a must-read for everyone who's interested in the economics behind the circle of shopping and clothes production.
I have read many books on the topic but this is the first that addresses one particular point which I feel is shockingly obvious yet often ignored. Fast fashion is not only cheap, it is, basically, waste. You might be all for recycling plastic, but have you ever thought about what's in your wardrobe and the implications for the environment? With fashion being cheap, and quality just "good enough", we create a staggering amount of pretty colored polyester garbage. Think about this before homing in on the next bargain you see!
In short: An eye-opening read that will hopefully make you reconsider your buying decisions!

Disclosure of Material Connection: I received this book free from the publisher through the NetGalley book review program. I was not required to write a positive review. The opinions I have expressed are my own.
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257 of 291 people found the following review helpful
1.0 out of 5 stars The shockingly high cost of cheap editing June 29, 2012
By Nancy
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase
I'm very interested in the subject of fast fashion, and I'm pretty sure the author did her research. (There are 11 pages of endnotes.) But "Overdressed" is so poorly written and edited (or unedited) that I stopped reading after three chapters. Some of the more glaring errors: "rarified" for "rarefied," "principal" for "principle," "hoards" for "hordes," "reigns" for "reins," "lose" for "loose," and "$150 dollars." There are comma errors, syntax errors, subject-verb agreement errors, verb-tense errors, and capitalization errors. Concepts that require clarification are unexplained (Black Friday, "when France was occupied").

And that's just the first 94 pages.

Nitpicking? Not really. "Overdressed" isn't a hastily written blog post; it's a book from a respected publisher. The sloppiness of the editing doesn't merely make for a painful reading experience; it also impairs the author's credibility and makes me wonder about the accuracy of her facts. Which is a shame, because this is a subject crying out for thorough and expert reporting.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars Good overview of a very disturbing business
Nearly everything about the cheap fashion industry is reprehensible. Consumer gluttony, repugnant business greed, sweatshop and life- threatening working conditions in places like... Read more
Published 2 days ago by Sand Trap Sam
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent!
The book is so great I couldn't stop reading it .... even when I was half way asleep with my eyes almost closed. Made me re-think the fashion and the way we treat our clothes. Read more
Published 3 days ago by Nataliya
4.0 out of 5 stars Eye-opening Look at How We Dress
Reading this book helped me make sense of why most of today's clothes seem cheap and poorly made. They ARE! Read more
Published 6 days ago by Joelle Bertolet
4.0 out of 5 stars Interesting
A thought provoking look into the clothes we buy and where they come from. It certainly made me rethink my own clothes and purchasing habits.
Published 14 days ago by RHEA PRATOR WILLIAMS
2.0 out of 5 stars Disappointing
I purchased OVER-DRESSED after reading several sewing bloggers discuss it on-line. I found it to have some interesting facts about today's apparel industry and how it has changed... Read more
Published 18 days ago by Laura Bell
4.0 out of 5 stars Good read
Very informative book about the way our clothes are made and how this has changed our relationship with them. Fairly enjoyable to read.
Published 20 days ago by Amie
3.0 out of 5 stars It's ok
The author needs to do more work in the field to really get a big picture of what's going on in the world. Read more
Published 23 days ago by Stephen Farah
3.0 out of 5 stars Easy read, interesting topic but she misses the mark
Having just finished this, there isn't a lot of new information that I didn't know about growing up with women who did work in the garment industry in the '50s and my own interest... Read more
Published 26 days ago by Elle
1.0 out of 5 stars Just a bad school paper
I tried to read past the first two chapters but just couldn't. Someone must have told the author that her school paper could be a book. Read more
Published 29 days ago by observer
5.0 out of 5 stars A Must-Read
This book does an excellent job of outlining the wheres, whys, and hows of fast fashion. It highlights the vicious cycle that is the fast fashion industry and the role that we, as... Read more
Published 1 month ago by Diana
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