I've used portable work-site compressors of various types for over 30 years; primarily for pneumatic fasteners and framers. The Porter Cable pancake compressor is, by far, the only one that is truly, comfortably portable, without sharp corners, while at the same time having the PSI and air capacity of six gallons to keep an air-thirsty framer working. I'm amused by the occasional complaints here and at other sites of the Porter Cable not having sufficient power for framing nailers, or that the unit kicks in regularly. Regarding the first commentary, my response is that this compressor has ample capacity to keep two framing nailers busy, PROVIDED THAT the user understands the simple physics in volume air handling. The hose ID is, in actual terms, a secondary stage air tank. The 25 foot x 1/4 inch hose supplied with the compressor is a terrific, light-weight hose and suits the machine's portability. For blowing up things around the home, and filling tires or delivering air to a stapler or brad gun, it is perfect. Having said that, ANY professional carpenter knows that a framing nailer, with its large bore and stroke, gobbles a very large volume of air, which must be backed up with volume that exceeds it. Only a 3/8" hose, or greater, will do that. As to the issue of the compressor kicking in regularly, perhaps some understanding of what's involved with this cycling is needed. All compressors have a turn-on/shut-off tank pressure parameter, whereby the tank pressure never rises above its safe working pressure, nor drops below the design minimum operating pressure. Normally, the action of the regulator allows for the pressure to drop to slightly above the hose supply pressure, at which time it kicks in and recharges the tank to full reserve pressure. Depending on the call for air from the user, this regulation may be more or less frequent, but it should always be predictable, if one were to watch the two dial indicators. When short-cycling occurs, it will be accompanied by a failure of the tank pressure to rise to the full rated pressure of the machine. The cause for frequent, or short, cycling is caused by the presence of water in the tank, which interferes with the pressure regulator. As air is compressed, water--present in all atmosphere--is wrung from it, and contaminates the air tank. This water, if not drained regularly, will eventually rust through the air tank in the long term, but in the short term of only a few hours, will get into the regulator valve, cause short cycling, thus preventing the compressor from attaining maximum stored pressure. Draining the tank must be done once every work-day, minimally, but on humid days, may be required every two or three hours, or whenever short-cycling begins to occur. Small portable compressors simply do not have a provision for collection of water, as large commercial compressors may have. As a helpful hint, the only way to correctly and completely drain the tank of water is to do as follows: Shut off compressor. Pull release ring and allow pressure to drop to at least 30 PSI. Open tank drain cock completely. Tilt compressor toward the valve and wait for the water to blow from it. It may take up to a minute to get it to spit its last, but it's extremely vital for the power, proper operation, and life of the machine. Now, about power... A look at the specs are pretty interesting. Porter Cable's design parameter is 120 PSI minimum to 150 PSI maximum. Their minimum is greater than the maximum of most machines in its class, and the maximum is 15 PSI greater than many machines that top-out at 135 PSI! Now, look at the tank capacity... 6 gallons! Again, it's the gallons of air--the volume--that refills the tool. Of course, such a machine is not ever going to maintain continuous air flow to tools that operate by bleeding off copious volumes of air, but then, such machines are not only not portable, they cost many hundreds, into the thousands, more. Finally, I live where oil-lubed air compressors stop working on cold days. A dry compressor such as the Porter Cable is unaffected by cold, and keeps working. I wonder how many people experience problems with their compressor because they didn't break it in, and began working it out of the box. Read the manual. The compressor requires a 15 minute break-in period, with no load, with the drain valve open. That's key. If you don't do it, you'll have a scored cylinder and air by-pass at the piston, and NO POWER. Your father used to ALWAYS break in his new car engine, because he knew that otherwise he'd be buying stock in an oil company. Even though manufacturers of many motors no longer stress this, it remains a fact that piston motors and engines run longer, more smoothly, more economically, and with greater efficiency after break in. Leakage around piston rings with a new motor is almost always caused by failure to break a motor in. Did you break your compressor in? Hmmmm???
This compressor is the loudest of the ones I've owned in this class, by far, but such is the price for this power, so I would not recommend running it in your bedroom at night.
Buy this compressor, break it in, get a 3/8" hose, and nail away with confidence and gusto!