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  • PORTER-CABLE PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin Nailer
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PORTER-CABLE PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin Nailer

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List Price: $192.66
Price: $98.66 & FREE Shipping. Details
You Save: $94.00 (49%)
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Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. Gift-wrap available.
  • Uses 23 ga. micro pin nails from 1/2-inch to 1-inch long similar to Senco models
  • Tool automatically adjusts for different fastener lengths for esier loading
  • Convenient bottom-load magazine holds 170 micro pin nails
  • Dual trigger feature
  • Low nail reload indicator; Rubber comfort grip on tool handle
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9 new from $98.66 3 used from $88.99

Save on DIY Projects in Tools & Home Improvement Save on DIY Projects in Tools & Home Improvement


Frequently Bought Together

PORTER-CABLE PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin Nailer + PINs.100 23 Ga. X 1" Pin Nails (2,000 Pk) + PINs.50 23 Ga. X 1/2" Pin Nails (2,000 Pk)
Price for all three: $122.59

These items are shipped from and sold by different sellers.

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  • Buy Used and Save: Buy a Used "PORTER-CABLE PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pi..." and save 53% off the $192.66 list price. Buy with confidence as the condition of this item and its timely delivery are guaranteed under the "Amazon A-to-z Guarantee". See all Used offers.

Product Information

Technical Details
Part Number PIN100
Item Weight4.2 pounds
Product Dimensions10.4 x 2.9 x 12.9 inches
OriginTaiwan
California residentsClick here for Proposition 65 warning
Item model numberPIN100
Power Sourceair-powered
Item Package Quantity1
Included Componentsbare-tool
Warranty Description1 Year Limited
  
Additional Information
ASINB00006411F
Best Sellers Rank #19,771 in Home Improvement (See top 100)
Shipping Weight4.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
ShippingThis item is also available for shipping to select countries outside the U.S.
Date First AvailableJune 22, 2008
  
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Product Description

Amazon.com

The Porter-Cable PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin Nailer takes care of all of your finishing projects, such as crown molding and other molding, and does it quickly and efficiently. It uses a dual trigger feature to fire the 23-gauge micro pin nails from the 170 pin bottom load magazine. This smart pin nailer even recognizes the length of the nail and automatically adjusts accordingly. The rubber comfort grip ensures hours of easy operation.

Customer Questions & Answers

Customer Reviews

It's light weight and easy to use.
Lane Tipple
The holes the 23 gauge pins leave in the finished wood surface are so small that they are almost invisible, and it is very accurate for pin placement.
Jerry Brasier
I am looking forward to using the PC PIN100 in doing the fine work.
Bob Feeser

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

342 of 347 people found the following review helpful By Bob Feeser TOP 1000 REVIEWERVINE VOICE on February 11, 2004
At first I was hesitant to buy the PC PIN100. The reviews were the core of my concern. Does it leave a dent in the work? Will it quickly malfunction? Is the pin visible? Is it a quality tool, or a piece of junk?
I took it out of the carrying case, and the clear plastic wrap, and immediately put 5 drops of the oil that comes in the kit, in the air nozzle. I wanted to ward off any jamming problems.
Upon loading the nails, I noticed that there were multiple arrows printed on the side of the nail strip. That way you would load them in the right direction. If you ignored the arrows, and loaded them upside down, which is possible considering the small size of the pins, the sharp, fine, thin tip would be up, to do battle with the hammer coming down. Certainly, it would veer off to one side, thereby freezing the hammer and pin. In addition that kind of action could score the shaft, and that would lead to other possible misfires. People reporting problems with jams could have done just that.

The top of the pin has a blunt-flat end on it, and the business end is sharp. Since they are so tiny, if you don't notice the arrows on the side, it is easy to load them upside down.
These pins are not serrated, or ring shanked, but rather smooth on the sides. That way they don't receive resistance on the way down. Important considering their fine size.
I was able to take the 3/4" pins, that come with the kit, and drive several into a 3/4" piece of oak, without any problems whatsoever. I first tested it out on a piece of scrap pine. Since I loaded the nailer with oil, it came out of the nose quite readily, which made a slight black mark where the pin went into the wood. Since the pine is very light, it showed. It was worth it, I wanted to break it in properly.
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92 of 94 people found the following review helpful By Thomas J. Wilson on June 1, 2004
On commercially made frame and panel doors you will notice two tiny little holes (that have been filled) on the back side of each joint. Even old dogs like me can learn a new trick once and awhile, and this struck me as a brilliant way of NOT being forced to wait for glue to set during the assembly process of frame and panel doors. My last project had 82 frame and panel doors and finished panels, and even gluing up two at a time in one set of clamps, I ran out of clamps pretty quick and then had to wait at least an hour prior to the assembly of more. My current project has 56 framed panels in 3/4" thick Western Red Cedar, Pine and Iroko so I decided to try a new way of assembly rather than play the waiting game. My PC pinner was purchased for just this purpose and I'm happy to report that this technique works like a charm and the glue joints remain tight while the glue sets AND the pin holes are truly "pin holes". On my current project the back-side of the panels is not visible so therefore I don't need to fill these holes, but on "good two side" projects these holes will not be an issue to fill.
The longer the panel sits in clamps the better chance the glue has to "grab". To facilitate this I used two sets of clamps. I glued and assembled one panel in the first set of clamps, fired 5/8" pins into the joints and let that sit while I assembled a second panel in the second set of clamps. The clamps pull the joint together and the 5/8" long pins perfectly "pin" the tenon in the joint and hold the frame together once released from the clamps.
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86 of 92 people found the following review helpful By Marc Ruby™ HALL OF FAMEVINE VOICE on August 23, 2004
By accident, I managed to have an opportunity to compare both this abd the Senco pin nailer in close combat. Actually, the accident was one too many jams with the Senco when I was in an irritable mood, which became the occasion for returning the one and buying the Porter-Cable. The second time through, I knew I had done the right thing.

The project at hand required a lot of crawling around and under, and using several different lengths of pins. The PIN100 never jammed. In retrospect the only small irritations occurred before I got used to the trigger safety. Which insisted on doing what it was supposed to do - keeping me from pinning myself. This is a very light-weight, easy to work tool - perfect for hobbyists and for professionals.

The nail size adjustment is automatic, if you follow the instructions. One thing to keep in mind is that the pins get driven below the surface only erratically. But they never stopped above the surface either. But remember to work with the air at about 100 psi. I wound up taking a nail and grinding the tip a bit to sink the pins, and this worked fine. On dark wood or with some carefil placement, they pretty much disappear.

The best recommendation I can give is that I find myself reaching for the PIN100 a lot when I'm gluing up small joinery. It has saved me a lot of time and added an extra element of security. I think that if you try it, you will see what I mean.
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27 of 29 people found the following review helpful By Gazzer on March 12, 2005
I just couldn't seem to get the thing to reliably set pins below the surface of the wood. At best, it would set them even with

the surface, leaving a nicely visible small shiny dot. At least 50% of the pins would stick up above the surface How much work is it to fix that sort of thing.

I tried it on walnut, pine, poplar, and white oak with only marginal differences between species. I ran the air pressure way up at the nailer with no success. Pin length did not seem to make a difference either (I shot quite a few 1" and 3/4" pins).

The only way I could get the thing to set the pins below the surface was to push the nose firmly into the wood. You guessed it, a noticable dimple from the pressure was the result.

So am I crazy to expect that I can gently place the nose of the nailer against the workpiece, shoot a pin that sets 1/32"+ below the surface, wipe some putty in, and then stand back to admire the work? Such a nailer must exist, but it isn't this one.
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