Customer Reviews

Park Tool PW-3 Pedal Wrench (15mm and 9/16 - Inch)

5 star:		(16)
4 star:		(6)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(1)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

I've only used the PW-3 on one bike so far -- an old Trek 820 I bought used for $50 that had a broken pedal -- and I chose the PW-3 over competing products in case I needed to slip a pipe over it for added leverage. Sure enough, I did need the pipe, but the PW-3 and pipe together broke the pedals loose, so I was able to finish unscrewing them by hand. I would not have been able to do this with a double-ended or wide-handled wrench.

I bought this to help a friend switch some pedals on a trainer that had the pedals 'Loctited'. This was the only tool that could put enough force on those pedals to loosen and remove them. (Pedal threads would normally be greased.)

Why a pedal wrench? Typically, an open end box wrench is too thick to fit between the pedal and the crank. Thinner wrenches can flex and break if you put too much torque on them. The Park Tool is thin enough to fit and thick enough to not bend or break. Two sizes allow fitment with most pedals out there.

When it comes to stubborn bicycle pedals that don't want to come off, it's hard to beat the Park Tool Pedal Wrench, also known as a "PW-3." This handy bike tool is made from Cro-Moly steel and which fits both 15mm and 9/16 inch pedals. This isn't the normal wrench that one would find in a regular home toolbox, but when I found it at a yard sale this summer, where it was marked as a "left-handed monkey wrench" by the seller, I grabbed it. The owner must have not known what it was or what it was worth, as he sort of snickered when he took my money. Was going to buy one eventually, ever since I had seen it described in the Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair 2nd Edition, but I couldn't pass on it when it was sitting there for a price that's too embarrassingly low to mention.

So why would someone need a Cro-Moly steel PW-3 from Park Tool to just change bike pedals? Bike pedal threads are different from left side and right side. The right side pedal has a right-hand thread (removes counterclockwise, installs clockwise). The left side pedal has a left-hand thread (removes clockwise, installs counterclockwise). Many pedals are stamped "L" and "R" for left and right. Additionally, the thread will appear to slope up toward its tightening direction. Left hand threads slope up to the left, while right hand threads slope up to the right. Got that?

In any case, old bicycle pedals are often rusted on, requiring a few zaps of WD-40 to loosen them up, then a bit of good old-fashioned elbow grease applied with that Cro-Moly steel PW-3 wrench. As others have noted, one can slip a length pipe over the end of the wrench for additional leverage if needed. Once that's done, the new pedals can be installed, reversing the removal procedure noted above.

And if I can't remember which direction to turn the wrench (do I turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise...) to properly install the amazing new Avenir ATB Pedals, I can always refer to the new Park Tool Big Blue Book of Repair, 2nd Edition for good instructions from author Calvin Jones.

Some bike tools are really worth it, and this is one of them.

The metal on the wrench gave way before my pedal did. I lose!
Yes, I soaked my pedal in oil. Yes, I also applied a torch to loosen the pedal. The pedal is still on my bike.

I bought the Park Tool Home Mechanics Wrench, as it had both sizes of pedal wrench, and because it was cheaper than the Pro wrench. This one is able to break a pedal loose as well as the Pro model, with the same 14" length, but not as easy to slip it on. The Pro model has one size and openings at 30 degrees and 45 degrees which make it easier to get the wrench on. But once the pedal breaks free, you can usually screw/unscrew it with your hands, until you get to the point you actually need to tighten it.

I pulled the black plastic factory pedals off in moments (after I worked out that the left side pedal needs to be loosened by turning it to the rear of the bicycle). That meant I could use the coaster brake to stop the pedal from turning.

Nearly the perfect tool for the job, Park tool makes this wrench quite a beefy tool, blue vinyl coating on the handle, black Parkerized finish on the metal. Keep the finish oiled, if you want to maintain it, it will rust where there are scrapes in the finish.

I've always used a crescent wrench when removing pedals that can't be removed with a hex wrench. This tool works great and is inexpensive enough that it's good to have on hand. It's solid and provides good torque to remove even the most stubborn pedals.

This is a great pedal wrench. Watch how to change your pedals on Bicycling.com. A needed tool if you change from clip to clipless pedals often. I do this on my mountain bike during the fall for single track to clipless for a hunting boot.

This is a nice pedal wrench. Unless you're real gear head you could probably get by with something cheaper, especially because virtually any 'modern' road bike's going to be 15 mm. anyway. The price is the only reason it's not five stars.

I took me forever to get this because I had lumped it with another order that was backordered...anyways, that was my fault.

Previously, I had tried cheap cone wrenches to loosen my pedals but completely wrecked the wrenches. For pedal installation & removal, it makes a huge difference to have the proper tool. Highly recommended if you change your pedals often or even a couple times a year.