Customer Reviews

Park Tool SR-1 Sprocket Remover/Chain whip with Header

5 star:		(2)
4 star:		(4)
3 star:		(2)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(2)

 

 

Not much to say about this tool - it's your basic chain whip. If you want to get your rear cassette apart without breaking something, you need one (along with the correct lock-ring tool), and that's that. This one is good quality, the handle is beefier that I expected it would be, and the other end has a hex pattern hole that conveniently works with some of their other tools (bottom bracket sockets) which makes it so you don't necessarily have to carry around a large crescent wrench to use those tools. Although I like the tool, it seems like it could be a little cheaper in price for what it is. I think that people tend to rate this tool low because it's use is somewhat anti-climactic. What I mean is this: You need to get your cassette off but you don't have a chain whip, so you are frustrated. You pay the twenty bucks or so and wait for it to come in the mail, and when it finally comes you go to the garage all excited and you put the whip on the sprocket and install your lock-ring tool and then, in a fraction of a second, the lock ring pops loose and the whole thing is over. The whip isn't even needed to put the cassette back together because the freewheel ratchet keeps it from turning. Anti-climactic.

One thing I will note is this, Park Tool makes four different chain whips, two of which are for special applications such as 1/8-inch cogs and 11-speed cassettes, so be sure you are getting the right one for your application.

It seems to do the job it was intended for. I agree with others that the wrench in the handle is next to useless. It would be much better if this fit the pedals or some other part of a bicycle like maybe the wheel bolts or just make it a handle and avoid the criticism all together.

Grips the cassette, handle is plenty long (took my 20 year old cassette right off), what more are you looking for?

Comes with a bonus 1 inch wrench, which fits a couple of park tools like their bottom bracket remover and their cassette remover (though you'll need a second chain whip to take advantage of that...).

I broke a spoke on the drive side and needed to remove the gears. I have many tools but none would grip the gears to allow removal. This tool easily did the job. Remember you need another tool to remove the retainer ring. The cost of both tools will be about the cost of a spoke repair at a shop.

I bought this so that I would be able to repair my 2007 Schwinn Sierra GS with the DPN 13-34 Mega Gear freewheel ... Not a cassette duh ... oh well I have an extra tool for the neighbor kids to borrow.

I know well made tools and this is a nice tool that will last if used occasionally by the shade tree mechanic ... unfortunately I am not yet a good bicycle mechanic and bought this along with the FR-5 cassette lock ring tool for my 13-34 Mega Gear Freewheel not to be confused with the Shimano Mega Range 13-34 freewheel ... the FR-5 does not fit the DPN Mega Gear 13-34 found on many low end bicycles.

I believe the DPN 13-34 requires the Park FR-1 but until I speak to Park Tools I will not say for sure; I called Park Tool this week but their people were out of town at a seminar, I will call next week and find the correct tool for those who have the DPN ... as this freewheel is hidden in layers of companies and if my Asian searches are correct the company uses DNP in their literature not DPN as is stamped on the Schwinn freewheel, yes I am confused.

I tagged this with several key words as I have spent months trying to find the replacement components I may need quickly when something breaks and I know there are many DPN Mega Gear owners that would like to do minor repairs but cannot find information on their bike that uses the 13-34 gear setup.

A good tool if you look at all within this category and compare prices, for the professional I would purchase the heavier chain whip and maybe use this one with the more expensive one when TWO chain whips are required ... frequency of use is the keyword and do not neglect the SIZE of the chain if you have several bikes with WIDE sprockets where this would not hold a wider sprocket.

Hooty

Park tools are expensive,but perform time and again,very dependable!What else can you say about a tool?

I found this tool to be almost useless, as is wants to roll of the sprocket when any significant torque is applied. Take my advice. Spend the extra money and buy the Park Tool SR-2. It works.

This is the genuine article from Park ... I would recommend
using this chain whip, or something high-quality, such as the
TORX ST-501A. Removing a freewheel, simple as it sounds, if not
done yearly, may result in a freewheel that is hard to remove as
removing a tooth from a jaw, for example. It's important to
have a spare chain whip, in case one breaks ... I had a cheap
whip from the PRON toolkit, that just broke. Also, be sure to
have PAINT THINNER / degreaser liquid nearby to clean the cassette,
as well as a CHAIN SCRUBBER such as the TORX ST-790 which really
cleans the inside very well from its semi-circular brush shape.
Also handy, is WD-40, to loosen this up, and a small sledge hammer.
A grease gun is essential, loaded with grease to lube up the inside
of the ball-bearings allowing the wheel to rotate, and the regular
detergent and high pressure water hose to clean potential dirt
accumulated from mult years of neglect. Perhaps an extra cassette would
be good, if you break off any tooth on the cassette during the process
of removing the freewheel.

It can't be both at the same time. If functions great as a chain whip. As a wrench for turning the lockring it leaves something to be desired. The chain hanging from the tool can get in the way and even "whip" around while trying to break the lockring free. Not to mention that you'll need two of these to actually accomplish the job since you can't hold the cassette in place with one end while turning the lockring tool with the other.

Personally I use it as a chain whip and just use a long-handled crescent wrench or socket wrench for the lockring. Sometimes the old ways are still the best ways.

One of these tools was included in a tool kit I purchased from Park (which was presumably designed to meet most bike maintenance needs.) Certainly I would expect that removing a cassette from a bike would be covered by the toolkit (and hence the tool). But according to the Park website, you need two of these tools to do the job, and you use exactly half of each tool (the chain whip end of one and the wrench end of the other) to do it. Huh? So why put them on opposite ends of the same piece of metal in the first place? It's as if somebody sold you a knife and fork that were glued together and facing opposite directions, and then told you that to eat, you should probably buy two and use the knife side of one and the fork side of the other. Part of me thinks I should hacksaw the tool in half to obtain a non-ergonomic but somewhat functional tool kit. What was Park thinking, does anybody know?