Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Park Tool BBT-22 Shimano Sealed Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool
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on June 14, 2009
Park Tool is widely regarded as the best bicycle-specific tool maker. This bottom bracket tool, essentially the socket end of a 1/2" drive socket wrench, makes it easy to see why. It's splined to fit Shimano sealed cartridge bottom brackets, just like a very similar socket I have from another manufacturer. The crucial differences are two: fit and contour. The tool snaps very precisely on to the bottom bracket, making easier work of a removal job that can be difficult due to overtightening or seized threads. Just as importantly, the top of the socket is contoured so that if the drive handle is providing insufficient leverage to do the job, one can fit a box end or open end wrench over the hex-shaped top of the socket. This makes possible the "desperation method," in which the socket must actually be bolted to the spindle of the bottom bracket and then turned a little at a time (often with much swearing, cheater pipes, etc). In the "seriously desperate" version of the desperation method, the tool can be bolted to the bottom bracket spindle and then clamped into a vice, with the entire frame being turned as a lever to move the seized threads. The shape of this tool makes that clamping possible.

If you have to do this, make sure to treat yourself to a beer or similar reward afterward. But with this tool, you can! If you're blessed not to need that method, this tool will work exactly as it should anyway, and for years to come.
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on January 19, 2011
Used this Park Tool BBT-22 to remove the bottom bracket (Shimano square taper) from my 1996 Specialized Allez. After 14 years it was about time to replace it! There is EXCELLENT instructional material at Park Tools website on how to do this.
First, remove the cranks. No easy task. The local bike store could not do it, they have the Park Tool crank puller. They took out the 8mm bolt that holds on the crank and then used the crank puller but instead of the crank coming off, it stripped the threads. So they gave up. So I bought a big 8mm allen wrench and removed the crank bolts (with the help of a friend), removed the pedals, dropped the chain off the smallest chain wheel (granny gear) to let it rest on the BB, removed the chain wheels, removed the bike wheels and then ... take a short length of about 1 1/2 inch galvanized pipe fixed horizontally in a decent sized bench vise, with the vise rotated so that person (a) (me) can hold the bike frame with the crank arm inserted into the pipe, and so that person (b) (the biggest guy you can find) can place a good sturdy punch down into the spindle (through the hole where the crank bolt was), hold the punch steady in a vise grip wrench, and whack it with a large (note, LARGE) hammer! Applying heat with a propane torch as needed. Not sure if the heat helps, but it might make you feel better! One crank (non-drive side) came off easiest. Drive side took a larger hammer and more determination. Eye and ear protection is needed.
In the above exercise, MAKE SURE you do not ruin the spindle threads because you will need them in the next step. Get a punch that is just right. Too big and you will ruin the threads, too small and you will bend the punch. Do not ask me how I know this. Go to Home Depot, buy several punches, and return the ones you do not use.
Now, with the cranks off, the rest is easy and can be done by one person. take the BBT-22 PLUS a metric bolt from Home Depot that has the same EXACT thread as the crank bolt (HD has a tester set up so you can match it yourself, take your crank bolt with you!). I used a 50mm long bolt which was slightly too long, PLUS 2 washers to get the BBT-22 held tightly onto the BB, the bolt goes into the end of the spindle where the crank bolt was. Get a big wrench and presto! Note, one side of my BB has a metal flange, versus the other side has a plastic cup-with-no-flange. You tackle the metal side first, remove it completely and the entire BB comes out. Then to get the plastic cup out, you do not need the bolt anymore. Lightly tap the BBT-22 into the plastic cup as far as it will go and it will turn easily.
Make sure you know which direction to turn, the Park Tools website explains this. On my setup the left side was right-threaded and the right side was left-threaded. Also I used a little spray lubricant here and there.
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on March 12, 2015
Fit fine. Slipped a lot with my old bottom bracket, which had fairly shallow teeth, but worked much better on the new one (a Shimano BB-UN45), which was deeper.

My relative small ratchet didn't provide enough leverage to get the drive side off (also remember, the drive side is reverse threaded, so you need to turn clockwise to remove), so I had to get a bigger wrench. The tool has a 3/8" socket (every other one I saw used a 1/2" socket), so depending on your tools this might be a better fit. It also provides two different sized surfaces for using an open wrench.
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on October 12, 2015
This tool seats solidly into the spline on the standard Shimano style splined bottom bracket cups. In spite of the relatively soft metal of the cups on the cheap (and now worn out) original sealed cartridge bearing square taper bottom bracket (VP-BC73 68 by 118 mm) on my older bike, this tool was able to crank out the cups without stripping the spline on the cups or on the tool. While the tool packaging does include instructions on which direction to crank the tool to properly loosen the bottom bracket cups (i.e. which way to crank the tool), a handy rule of thumb is this: to loosen the bottom bracket, turn the wrench in the same direction as you would pedal when riding the bike, and start with the non-drive-side first. The direction you need to turn seems counter-intuitive to me (and is the opposite of what you do to loosen the pedals on your bike) but it works. As a previous reviewer commented, you can compensate for the loose fit between the teeth of this tool and the bottom bracket cup by using a bolt and a few washers; this will not allow you to use a square drive wrench directly (because the bolt goes through the square hole), but it does keep the tool in place. However, if you use a deep socket attachment on the square drive wrench you can still go that route thanks to the hexagonal drive portions of the tool. Alternatively, you can do what I did and attach two wrenches pointing opposite directions on the tool, then crank on both at once, equally. This way, you're pretty much applying a pure torque load to the tool and you won't cause it to "fall out" of the bottom bracket cup.
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on December 16, 2015
This is a shallow model I'm suspecting there is a deeper modle it worked but I used it to install a square taper and also a hoxiganal bottom bracket and the teath barely reached on both my brackets I'm looking for a deeper model
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on January 12, 2013
Park Tools makes a lot of good quality tools. And they also make a few duds. This one is one of them. The tool slips often when you attempt to remove stubborn cups.
The teeth profile of the splines is the cause. They seem to ride out of the cups (metal cups). After struggling with it on numerous BBs...I elected to buy a competing brand's tool and it not only costs less, it actually works. It's a splined drive, tool isn't supposed to walk itself out of the cups, Park!
Interesting how Park released another model more similar to the ones out on the market. I would trade mine in for the newer one if Park would take this one back!
IMHO, and from the complaints from other respected mechanics I know, skip this one if you plan to tackle any seriously stubborn BBs.
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on March 2, 2012
okay, so sometimes it seems like tools cost too much, well a lot of times they are worth it cause you save money by doing it yourself. Park makes tools you only buy once and if you are like me and have 2 or 3 bikes to maintain(family man)then spend the money to get quality tools. this tool makes it easy to take out and install the BB. this tool likes to tilt when you apply pressure, just because of it's length. my 2 cents, only work on your bike when you have time and are not in a big hurry, it will save you in the long run
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on August 16, 2013
I used Park Bottom Bracket tool to replace the square taper sealed cartridge type bottom bracket on my Mercier Galaxy SC1 14-speed road bike that began making creaking sounds when I pedaled after just 3,000 miles. The park BB tool offers a wide variety of turning options. The end of the tool has a slot for a standard 3/8" socket driver and it can also be turned using a 32mm or a 1" socket or wrench. The 32mm or 1" ends are ideal to use with a 1/2" breaker bar and socket for added leverage when removing difficult bottom brackets. The larger ends placed near the head makes it easier to center the tool while turning it and applies torque to the head of the tool instead where it's needed, instead of the end. The 3/8" slot can be used to tighten it with a torque wrench to avoid stripping the threads and ensure the bottom bracket is torqued to the proper spec. The teeth on the Park tool did begin to slightly show wear after just one use. I'm not sure it will live up to the 'shop quality' claim in the description, but it should be durable enough for occasional home repairs.
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on July 14, 2012
I just installed a Shimano UN26 BB with this tool. It interfaces with the plastic cup on the non drive side very well. However on the drive side it is very loose and tends to slip. A lot. As well I was using a 3/8 drive torque wrench to install the BB. The socket drive hole is VERY loose. Enough that it will fall off the torque wrench, and yes I did have the spring ball bearing lock lined up with the hole in the tool. While I like having my own tools to work on things I'm seriously considering returning this and buying the Shimano designed and built installation tool (TL-UN66) that is listed in the spec sheet for the BB.

I own several Park Tools and I have to say I'm disappointed in the quality of this one.
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on February 12, 2014
The straight threads are very slightly too thin for a brand new Shimano BB-UN55.

When you put this on, it only engages a short distance because of the design of the bottom bracket.

The teeth have play, and so when you put the proper torque, or really any torque, this tries to lean out of the BB.

If the straight threads on this tool were a few microns thicker, it wouldn't slip as much.

The implication is that this is a stamped or cast tool which needs its cast, blanks, or dies replaced due to wear.
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