Customer Reviews

Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear

5 star:		(1)
4 star:		(3)
3 star:		(2)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(1)

 

 

I'll give it 3 stars, because I got a lot of ideas in this book which actually inspired me. The fact that the patterns doesn't work for me hasn't stopped me from learning a lot from it.

I have followed two pattern design courses and am designing my own clothes which fit pretty well. I bought this book because I also wanted to be able to design a bra, which wasn't included in my courses. Unfortunately the bra block givin in this book doesn't consider the underbust measurement - only the bust measurement itself. The cupsize of a bra is determined by subtracting the underbust measurement from the bust measurement and the support of a bra comes from the snug underbust fit. For that reason I couldn't get the bra pattern to fit me (cup turned out too small, while band too big around body) and I am busy to figure it out myself by adjusting the lower dart to fit my underbust measurement while making a bigger curve towards the bustpoint.

Still the back cover of the book claims that all the patterns has been tested and therefore works. I suppose it could work for someone with a much smaller cupsize (the bust line not much bigger than the underbust).

Also, according to the author's instructions to the bodice block, all women's bust points are at the same height. (half of the nape of neck to waist measurement plus 4 cm's toward the waist). That simply isn't true, so I'm using my own bodice block where you have to measure your (individual) height of your bust point and mark it on the pattern accordingly.

I was very excited when the book arrived in the mail and started working immediately. Unfortunately I was quite dissapointed soon afterwards.

Why 5 stars:

1) It is metric - this means that you can work in the smallest and most precise measurements you need (0.2 CM doesn't translate onto an imperial tape measure) With contour designs such as lingerie, precision is everything. Being out slightly on seams does not affect the fit of most garments, but when they are skin tight, precision is everything.

2) Bras, corsets, lounge pants - it is all in here. I am a skilled pattern maker and used this book while putting together a collection - the patterns work. All patterns that you make from basic blocks do need to be pretested - to check for fit against a standard model - and more so if you are making bespoke clothing for someone that isn't a 'standard' B cup. But if you consider the properties of the fabric you use, these patterns work. I have used them. Fabric is crucial in any design so a muslin made for panties out of calico is never going to fit the same as the one using powernet. Similarly, corsets can stretch most fabrics, so samples need to be made carefully.

3) It allows for size - with this book, you draft a basic block (bodice etc) and work from that. If you start with the right block, and factor in cup size adjustments, then you will do well.

4) Because it provides you with basic blocks to work from, if you are creative you can design to your hearts content - simply making alterations at the pattern drafting or toiling stages.

5) This book is all about the foundations we wear - which now are often also used as outerwear. If you make bridal gowns, evening wear, or even some sports wear - these all have traces back to lingerie blocks. Think the strapless wedding dress corset bodice, or the lingerie style summer dresses, or even the lounge pants that translate into easy fitting loose linen casual pants.

This book relies on knowledge of pattern making, construction, fitting and the use of a toile or two. But what it provides, is the freedom from commercial patterns and their limitations. This is not a book for those who have no/little experience in pattern making from scratch - as it will be confusing and tackling areas that rely on this knowledge. But as a desiger - it is a great addition to the bookshelf, you will use it if only for the basques and bustier blocks that are the foundation for so many eveningwear designs.

How could it be better? Produce an accompanying sewing technique book for those not trained in lingerie construction, the singer books and other lingerie books are at a different level to this. Without understanding the order of construction, then you likely won't get the most from this book - every toile/muslin needs to be carefully constructed, otherwise patterns cannot be correctly tested = frustration and disappointment in the book itself.

This is an approximate translation of the above review:

I would not recommend this book for a beginner. On the other hand, this book is perfect to clarify certain problems that one can face when cutting and fitting a pattern to measure. By the way, the other books of this series are exellent! I would say, this is a bible for the cut of patterns of lingerie and bathing suits.

GREAT book for ADVANCED pattern makers. I am not one of them. I love more detail on top of detail coupled with simplicity instructions. This book is not that. I found more simplistic lingerie and beachwear pattern instructions on the internet. Don't get me wrong this book has some good information in it BUT for the ADVANCED pattern maker.

perfect to complete you cutting skills. a specific book on a matter which is usually superficially examined in pattern making classes.

ok!

Je ne recommanderais pas ce livre a un débutant.
Par contre,ce livre est parfait pour clarifier certain problèmes que l'on peut rencontrer lors de la coupe et du moulage d'un patron sur mesure.
Par ailleur,les autres livres de cette série sont exellents!
Je dirais,une bible pour la coupe de patrons de lingerie et maillots de bain.

I was very disappointed to receive this book and find out that all of the measurements are in centimeters. Of course I could translate them to inches, but who has time for that? The publishers should have considered that. Also I have never had a book with more typographical errors like "crutch" instead of "crotch" consistently throughout the book. I find it funny that the author thanks her associate for proofreading the book. I don't think she deserved the praise for a job well done! I returned it. It focussed more on robes, lingerie instead of swimwear / beachwear as I was expecting.