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Pattern Magic Paperback – October 6, 2010
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Top Customer Reviews
Once you get beyond the basics of creating patterns that fit, commonly called slopers, what do you do with them? Most designs I see on the street, in catalogs, and in the stores are so easy to execute that the design process is not challenging at all.
But there are a few designs that have me scratching my head thinking "How did they do that?" I have taken to calling them "Pattern Puzzles." This book is full of these designs. Each one is uniquely different but beautifully illustrated and explained in anywhere from one to three page spreads. Tomoko never takes more than three pages of illustrations to show how to make even the most complex and unusual design from a fitted sloper.
I am pleased to see her using the front bodice sloper for women that I now use in my online patternmaking classes. It has one dart for the bust to the waist and one to the armscye (arm hole). In my experience this configuration for the darts provides the optimum way of achieving an accurate custom fit. I also believe it is the best sloper for visualizing how to create the lines of original designs so you can convert from a two dimensional form to a three dimensional one.
She uses a technique for evaluating pattern shapes that I have found invaluable in my teaching which is to prototype design ideas in paper so you can assemble the shape before you even touch needle and thread.
Tomoko also shares another passion of mine for developing design ideas using dress forms in scale. All the photos in this book are of the designs on a half scale manikin.
Caveat #1: These designs are unusual. If you are looking for the conventional, this is not for you.Read more ›
Even though I have 60 years sewing experience and a tech degree in pattern design, I don't think that I could readily draft or adapt any of the patterns, not to mention making most of them. While there is ample information about drafting the pattern, there is no instruction about sewing the garment, appropriate understructure, interfacing etc. The notation on the patterns is a little different that what I was taught so I found it a little confusing. One generally needs to sew a complicated garment in a specific sequence that is not given in the book. If one is going to make the dress on page 55, for example, out of a "soft woolen georgette", one is going to need to underline and interline. That is not mentioned. I suppose a seasoned pro would know. Have plenty of muslin on hand if you try these garments.
The book is not for beginners. If you are very experienced with pattern drafting and sewing, go for it. If you are not, buy the book and admire the skill and ingenuity that has gone into drafting these patterns and making these garments. I would call this a sewing equivalent of a beautiful coffee table book, hardly practical but very interesting and, perhaps, inspirational. Four stars for the inspiration. While I know that pattern books rarely mention these things, I subtracted a star for the lack of information regarding structure and construction since these designs are so very complex.
The section on adding a built-in bow to the bodice was worth the money of the book alone, and the beautiful bodice with alternating folds up the front, somewhat like a wheat stalk, was lovely. Note that this was not just some fancy cutting and stitching, for which fit is sacrificed; the darts were simply rotated and incorporated into the design.
And not all of the techniques must start with a sloper; some can simply be incorporated as modifications to an existing pattern of the appropriate type that fits well.
Flat-pattern drafting is well within the reach of anyone who understands the basics of sewing very well, such as the effects of grainline changes for different types of fabrics and the importance of darts (as well as how different types of darts are used to control fullness).
All in all, this is a wonderful addition to a field in which there are not enough books, largely due to unwarranted fear on the part of many who sew.Read more ›
Most Recent Customer Reviews
Easy to follow instructions, well laid out information, and in my opinion best suited for advance reference work.Published 1 month ago by Don
It's interesting with amazing patterns, I think it would be better if all measurement are converted into inches, and more pictures of processes!Published 6 months ago by Kiet Pham
This is a very interesting book with very unusual techniques. I enjoy experimenting with fabric manipulation and this book shows things I've never seen.Published 8 months ago by Lucille Rox
Fast delivery! It's very helpful in my pattern making coursePublished 8 months ago by kemi thompson