Pattern Magic is the cult pattern-making book from Japan. Taking inspiration from nature, from geometricshapes, and from the street, this book harnesses the sheer joy of making and sculpting clothes. The book takes a creative approach to pattern making, with step-by- step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers to enjoy. Each project is beautifully illustrated with clear diagrams and photographs showing the stages of construction, the muslins, and the finished garments.
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About the Author
After serving many years as a professor at Bunka Fashion College, Ms. Nakamichi currently delivers lectures and holds courses on fashion design, both in Japan and overseas. This book brings together the results of the research on garment patterns she has carried out to help instruct her students.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
167 of 169 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase
It has been a long time since I have found a pattern making book that I have found as exciting as this book.
Once you get beyond the basics of creating patterns that fit, commonly called slopers, what do you do with them? Most designs I see on the street, in catalogs, and in the stores are so easy to execute that the design process is not challenging at all.
But there are a few designs that have me scratching my head thinking "How did they do that?" I have taken to calling them "Pattern Puzzles." This book is full of these designs. Each one is uniquely different but beautifully illustrated and explained in anywhere from one to three page spreads. Tomoko never takes more than three pages of illustrations to show how to make even the most complex and unusual design from a fitted sloper.
I am pleased to see her using the front bodice sloper for women that I now use in my online patternmaking classes. It has one dart for the bust to the waist and one to the armscye (arm hole). In my experience this configuration for the darts provides the optimum way of achieving an accurate custom fit. I also believe it is the best sloper for visualizing how to create the lines of original designs so you can convert from a two dimensional form to a three dimensional one.
She uses a technique for evaluating pattern shapes that I have found invaluable in my teaching which is to prototype design ideas in paper so you can assemble the shape before you even touch needle and thread.
Tomoko also shares another passion of mine for developing design ideas using dress forms in scale. All the photos in this book are of the designs on a half scale manikin.
Caveat #1: These designs are unusual. If you are looking for the conventional, this is not for you. But if you step beyond "I wouldn't want to wear that" and move on to "What can I learn from this pattern design technique," I believe you will increase your pattern design skills exponentially.
Caveat #2: There are no sewing instructions. I would recommend when you try these ideas out you do what Tomoko does and try them in scale first. If you don't have a scale dress form, fashion dolls such as the ones Tomoko works with are an excellent medium to experiment with.
Bravo Tomoko--I can hardly wait until your volume 2 is translated into English. Although your illustrations are so clear, I am almost tempted to get the Japanese edition.
Don McCunn
Author of How to Make Sewing Patterns
Once you get beyond the basics of creating patterns that fit, commonly called slopers, what do you do with them? Most designs I see on the street, in catalogs, and in the stores are so easy to execute that the design process is not challenging at all.
But there are a few designs that have me scratching my head thinking "How did they do that?" I have taken to calling them "Pattern Puzzles." This book is full of these designs. Each one is uniquely different but beautifully illustrated and explained in anywhere from one to three page spreads. Tomoko never takes more than three pages of illustrations to show how to make even the most complex and unusual design from a fitted sloper.
I am pleased to see her using the front bodice sloper for women that I now use in my online patternmaking classes. It has one dart for the bust to the waist and one to the armscye (arm hole). In my experience this configuration for the darts provides the optimum way of achieving an accurate custom fit. I also believe it is the best sloper for visualizing how to create the lines of original designs so you can convert from a two dimensional form to a three dimensional one.
She uses a technique for evaluating pattern shapes that I have found invaluable in my teaching which is to prototype design ideas in paper so you can assemble the shape before you even touch needle and thread.
Tomoko also shares another passion of mine for developing design ideas using dress forms in scale. All the photos in this book are of the designs on a half scale manikin.
Caveat #1: These designs are unusual. If you are looking for the conventional, this is not for you. But if you step beyond "I wouldn't want to wear that" and move on to "What can I learn from this pattern design technique," I believe you will increase your pattern design skills exponentially.
Caveat #2: There are no sewing instructions. I would recommend when you try these ideas out you do what Tomoko does and try them in scale first. If you don't have a scale dress form, fashion dolls such as the ones Tomoko works with are an excellent medium to experiment with.
Bravo Tomoko--I can hardly wait until your volume 2 is translated into English. Although your illustrations are so clear, I am almost tempted to get the Japanese edition.
Don McCunn
Author of How to Make Sewing Patterns
61 of 62 people found the following review helpful
By SSB
Format:Paperback
I am not sure why I bought this book since I do not sew anymore (arthritis) and I do not particularly like to look at or to wear modern Japanese clothing. The cover caught my eye, I guess. I have always been curious about the structure of some of the more complicated Japanese designs. This is an amazing book. The clothing is amazing, if largely unwearable, but could be the springboard for your own interesting designs. Many of the ideas could be adapted to Western clothing.
Even though I have 60 years sewing experience and a tech degree in pattern design, I don't think that I could readily draft or adapt any of the patterns, not to mention making most of them. While there is ample information about drafting the pattern, there is no instruction about sewing the garment, appropriate understructure, interfacing etc. The notation on the patterns is a little different that what I was taught so I found it a little confusing. One generally needs to sew a complicated garment in a specific sequence that is not given in the book. If one is going to make the dress on page 55, for example, out of a "soft woolen georgette", one is going to need to underline and interline. That is not mentioned. I suppose a seasoned pro would know. Have plenty of muslin on hand if you try these garments.
The book is not for beginners. If you are very experienced with pattern drafting and sewing, go for it. If you are not, buy the book and admire the skill and ingenuity that has gone into drafting these patterns and making these garments. I would call this a sewing equivalent of a beautiful coffee table book, hardly practical but very interesting and, perhaps, inspirational. Four stars for the inspiration. While I know that pattern books rarely mention these things, I subtracted a star for the lack of information regarding structure and construction since these designs are so very complex.
Even though I have 60 years sewing experience and a tech degree in pattern design, I don't think that I could readily draft or adapt any of the patterns, not to mention making most of them. While there is ample information about drafting the pattern, there is no instruction about sewing the garment, appropriate understructure, interfacing etc. The notation on the patterns is a little different that what I was taught so I found it a little confusing. One generally needs to sew a complicated garment in a specific sequence that is not given in the book. If one is going to make the dress on page 55, for example, out of a "soft woolen georgette", one is going to need to underline and interline. That is not mentioned. I suppose a seasoned pro would know. Have plenty of muslin on hand if you try these garments.
The book is not for beginners. If you are very experienced with pattern drafting and sewing, go for it. If you are not, buy the book and admire the skill and ingenuity that has gone into drafting these patterns and making these garments. I would call this a sewing equivalent of a beautiful coffee table book, hardly practical but very interesting and, perhaps, inspirational. Four stars for the inspiration. While I know that pattern books rarely mention these things, I subtracted a star for the lack of information regarding structure and construction since these designs are so very complex.
38 of 38 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase
Brilliant book. You must know how to sew and have some experience to truly take advantage of this book. If you are into patterning you will love it because it takes you in an incredibly creative and unusual direction. I thought I knew how to move darts and then I read this book!
Most Recent Customer Reviews
2.0 out of 5 stars
Pattern Magic, by Tomoko Nakamichi
Very interestring sewing concepts. Sewing with thinking outside the box. Very good instructions. Excellent photos, easy to understand. Read more
Published 6 days ago by Nancy C. Groff
4.0 out of 5 stars
Gift
I actually bought this twice, because I forgot I had purchased it the first time...Really good though, must be to buy it twice.
Published 1 month ago by kathryn p garrity
3.0 out of 5 stars
Not for beginners
Full of tips on how to make exotic clothing creations. It's interesting but has no practical application for an ordinary home sewer like me.
Published 1 month ago by Sher
4.0 out of 5 stars
Not a basic instruction book
I've had this book in my wishlist for over a year, and I finally got around to ordering it... and discovered that it wasn't what I thought it was. Read more
Published 2 months ago by R. Pylman
5.0 out of 5 stars
Pattern Magic
This is one of a series of three books that is just fabulous. So full of inspiration, good explainations, pictures and patterns. A "must have"
Published 3 months ago by vaj
4.0 out of 5 stars
Great book
I am very pleased with this book. Even though it deviants from the patterning norms, the techniques are still straight forward and easy to follow. Read more
Published 3 months ago by Shanna Tucker
3.0 out of 5 stars
A review of the condition (not the content)
To those who might be interested, while my experience may have be unrepresentative of the average purchase, I'd like to warn you nonetheless. Read more
Published 4 months ago by William Matsuoka
3.0 out of 5 stars
A first reading
It`s a little difficult, I thought it was easier.
Probably in the future might use it more if I encrease my knowledge.
Probably in the future might use it more if I encrease my knowledge.
Published 4 months ago by Sylvia Marina Suarez
5.0 out of 5 stars
Great Book
My girlfriend is a costumer and she has really wanted this book for a very long time. We both think it is very well done.
Published 4 months ago by S. Miller
4.0 out of 5 stars
Recommended
This was a gift for my son, who is a fashion major in college. He likes it and thinks it will be great for his classes.
Published 4 months ago by jems
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