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Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Edition) Hardcover – December 22, 1999

ISBN-13: 978-0321034236 ISBN-10: 0321034236 Edition: 3rd

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Product Details

  • Hardcover: 821 pages
  • Publisher: Prentice Hall; 3 edition (December 22, 1999)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0321034236
  • ISBN-13: 978-0321034236
  • Product Dimensions: 11 x 8.7 x 1.3 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 4.1 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 4.4 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (28 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #343,298 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Editorial Reviews

From the Back Cover

This quintessential guide to patternmaking offers comprehensive coverage, clear illustrations and easy-to-follow instructions, providing users with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity. Covers the three steps in the development of design patterns—dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring—with a central theme that all designs are based on one, or more of these three major patternmaking and design principles. Includes a fashion sketch for each project with an analysis of the design, and focuses on pattern plot and manipulation for developing the patterns. Illustrates several methods for knock-offs, and dedicates new sections on fitting corrections for the basic pattern set and the four pant foundation; menswear; patternmaking for bias-cut garments; revised drafting instructions and standard measurement charts; how to modify the bodice to fit the different sizes of bust cups; constructed support for strapless designs, and more. Presents additional and more challenging design projects for the advanced reader. For dressmakers, home sewers, manufacturing companies, and professionals in fashion design and fashion merchandising.

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Customer Reviews

I use this book to draft and also to alter commercial patterns into a different style.
rachel kennison
This book contains everything the experienced person needs to get a good start at making their own patterns.
The methods taught in this book are the same methods that Top Designers and Fashion Design Students use.
Amazon Customer

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

473 of 473 people found the following review helpful By allison taylor on October 4, 2000
Format: Hardcover
After receiving this textbook for my third level patternmaking course in design school, I managed to read through after the term was over and realized how much we had skipped over - this book is packed with how-to information on developing not only the basic block (bodice F/B, skirt F/B, fitted sleeve) but variations of all sorts. I think a reader with good skills at visualizing a fashion design could, with this text, learn to pattern and build almost anything. First, every single exercise she covers is more than adequately illustrated, with fashion figures (or portions thereof) modelling the particular neckline, sleeve, skirt silhouette, etc so you can accurately see, not guess, what the style line in question looks like on a body. And technical drawings are clear and plentiful, so one can easily understand whether she's overlapping the skirt panels to compare hip curves or pivoting the bodice back to transfer a dart from waist to side seam. No confusion here, which is quite an accomplishment given the complexity of the subject. Second, the accompanying text is abbreviated to make the read easier but not so much that you will get lost in following from step a to step b. And at the beginning of each section the author given a little introduction which compares the efficiency and difficulty of the given method, outlines its uses and end results, and possible further adaptations. In the first 2 chapters, author covers the workroom (incl. list of tools, photos from manufacturing, completed sample cost sheet/pattern chart/design specification sheet, basic fabric and pattern terminology used in later chapters, and summaries of computerized patternmaking and development processes) and model form measurement. Chapter 3 covers drafting the basic pattern set.Read more ›
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121 of 123 people found the following review helpful By A Customer on February 5, 2002
Format: Hardcover
I was introduced to this book through a pattern making class, and though I have not read this book page-by-page, I found to be very useful. I have a sloper of my own measurements that I use for my own designs, but this book provides a copy of various half-scale slopers you can use to practice with. There is also a chapter on making your own sloper, but I just skimmed over it.
This book teaches you the basic principles behind pattern manipulation. You can use the principles in this book to make original designs of your own. There is so much information in this book that I cannot touch on everything and keep this review short, so it's a bit long. Once you have your own sloper made, and understand the principles that this book teaches you, you will never need to buy a store bought pattern.
There are 36 chapters in this book; and just to give you an idea of how broad a scope of pattern manipulation this book touches on I'll list the chapters:
1. The work room, 2. Model Form and Measurements, 3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set, 4. Dart Manipulation (Principle #1), 5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers), 6. Stylelines, 7. Added Fullness (Principle #2), 8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks, 9. Contouring (Principle #3), 10. Collars, 11. Built-up Necklines, 12. Cowls, 13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades, 14. Sleeves, 15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop, Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes, 16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings, 17. Plackets and Pockets, 18. Dresses without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso foundation), 19. Strapless Foundations, 20. Patternmaking for Bias-cut Dresses, 21. Shirts, 22. Jackets and Coats, 23. Capes and Hoods, 24. Knock-Off-Copying Ready-Made Designs, 25. Pants, 26. Knits-Stretch and Shrinkage Factors, 27. Knit Foundaiton, 28.
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92 of 95 people found the following review helpful By A Customer on March 23, 2001
Format: Hardcover
I am using the third edition of this book for my flat pattern drafting class. Despite good recommendations, my classmates and instructors all really dislike the book. I had a chance to compare it with the second edition, and I found out why we have had so many problems (e.g., exercises not working correctly, contradictory information in the text, missing information, etc.). It seems that when the third edition was created, a lot of essential instructions and information were taken out of the book. There are also innumerable editorial errors. As a reference text, this book is voluminous although not comprehensive. A lot of the information is presented with no explanation. There is a lot of conceptual information about pattern drafting that this book doesn't include, and overall, I don't recommend it as a book for teaching oneself how to draft patterns. If you do use it as a text, be prepared to be skeptical of the exercise directions, and remember to use a lot of common sense. Personally, I am now going to try to get a copy of the second edition, because I did really like it. The exercises were easy to follow (unlike the third edition), and the book does tell how to draft just about anything.
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65 of 66 people found the following review helpful By Elizabeth M. Allemong on October 17, 2004
Format: Hardcover
Elizabeth M. Allemong from Vestis Books

author of European Cut - How to Draft Basic Slopers for Custom-Made Clothes

This huge and comprehensive textbook prepares college students for making patterns for the ready-to-wear industry. As most patternmaking manuals in this country, the book teaches the American method of drafting slopers with minimum ease included, as well as applying design lines to basic patterns.

What the book does not teach is where and how much to add of design ease. (Wearing ease, design ease, and design or style lines make up the complete sewing pattern). The technique of adding design ease to every possible garment cannot be done in a book of hundreds pages; this book would have to be thousands of pages. Readers must understand that.

Adding design ease depends on several factors, for example: type of garment, occasion, fashion silhouette, fabric, type of fit, etc. Professional patternmakers know these factors and they consider them carefully, whether they make patterns for factories, pattern companies, or individual clients. (I imagine that students attending Armstrong's classes at the L.A. Trade-Technical College learn about adding design ease.) I learned about adding ease in my school.

Would I recommend this book to a home-sewer who wants to start learning patternmaking? Wholeheartedly! While I prefer to use the European method of drafting basic slopers, I used Armstrong's book extensively when I was learning to apply design lines. Adding design lines is universal, regardless of what method of drafting slopers one uses.

Armstrong's book is also rich in details of other aspects of patternmaking, like contouring, an important patternmaking principle, often forgotten by other books.
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