Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Edition) [Hardcover]

Helen Joseph Armstrong (Author)

Book Description

ISBN-10: 0321034236 | ISBN-13: 978-0321034236 | Publication Date: December 22, 1999 | Edition: 3

This quintessential guide to patternmaking offers comprehensive coverage, clear illustrations and easy-to-follow instructions, providing users with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity. Covers the three steps in the development of design patterns—dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring—with a central theme that all designs are based on one, or more of these three major patternmaking and design principles. Includes a fashion sketch for each project with an analysis of the design, and focuses on pattern plot and manipulation for developing the patterns. Illustrates several methods for knock-offs, and dedicates new sections on fitting corrections for the basic pattern set and the four pant foundation; menswear; patternmaking for bias-cut garments; revised drafting instructions and standard measurement charts; how to modify the bodice to fit the different sizes of bust cups; constructed support for strapless designs, and more. Presents additional and more challenging design projects for the advanced reader. For dressmakers, home sewers, manufacturing companies, and professionals in fashion design and fashion merchandising.

Editorial Reviews

From the Back Cover

This quintessential guide to patternmaking offers comprehensive coverage, clear illustrations and easy-to-follow instructions, providing users with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity. Covers the three steps in the development of design patterns—dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring—with a central theme that all designs are based on one, or more of these three major patternmaking and design principles. Includes a fashion sketch for each project with an analysis of the design, and focuses on pattern plot and manipulation for developing the patterns. Illustrates several methods for knock-offs, and dedicates new sections on fitting corrections for the basic pattern set and the four pant foundation; menswear; patternmaking for bias-cut garments; revised drafting instructions and standard measurement charts; how to modify the bodice to fit the different sizes of bust cups; constructed support for strapless designs, and more. Presents additional and more challenging design projects for the advanced reader. For dressmakers, home sewers, manufacturing companies, and professionals in fashion design and fashion merchandising.

Product Details

• Hardcover: 821 pages
• Publisher: Prentice Hall; 3 edition (December 22, 1999)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0321034236
• ISBN-13: 978-0321034236
• Product Dimensions: 11 x 8.7 x 1.3 inches
• Shipping Weight: 4.1 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (21 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #78,405 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #77 in Books > Arts & Photography > Design & Decorative Arts > Textile & Costume

More About the Author

Discover books, learn about writers, read author blogs, and more.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

462 of 462 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars really comprehensive text for flat patternmaking, October 4, 2000

By 

allison taylor (orange county, california) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Edition) (Hardcover)

After receiving this textbook for my third level patternmaking course in design school, I managed to read through after the term was over and realized how much we had skipped over - this book is packed with how-to information on developing not only the basic block (bodice F/B, skirt F/B, fitted sleeve) but variations of all sorts. I think a reader with good skills at visualizing a fashion design could, with this text, learn to pattern and build almost anything. First, every single exercise she covers is more than adequately illustrated, with fashion figures (or portions thereof) modelling the particular neckline, sleeve, skirt silhouette, etc so you can accurately see, not guess, what the style line in question looks like on a body. And technical drawings are clear and plentiful, so one can easily understand whether she's overlapping the skirt panels to compare hip curves or pivoting the bodice back to transfer a dart from waist to side seam. No confusion here, which is quite an accomplishment given the complexity of the subject. Second, the accompanying text is abbreviated to make the read easier but not so much that you will get lost in following from step a to step b. And at the beginning of each section the author given a little introduction which compares the efficiency and difficulty of the given method, outlines its uses and end results, and possible further adaptations. In the first 2 chapters, author covers the workroom (incl. list of tools, photos from manufacturing, completed sample cost sheet/pattern chart/design specification sheet, basic fabric and pattern terminology used in later chapters, and summaries of computerized patternmaking and development processes) and model form measurement. Chapter 3 covers drafting the basic pattern set. Chapters 4-9 cover the three main principles of flat patternmaking: dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring. Author then devotes a chapter to each of: collars, built-up necklines, cowls, skirts/circles/cascades, sleeves, kimono/raglan/dropped/exaggerated armholes, buttons/buttonholes/facings, plackets/pockets, dresses without waistline seams, strapless foundations/interconstruction, bias-cut dresses, shirt foundations, jackets/coats, capes/hoods, knockoff methods, pants, knits, knit foundations, actionwear/dancewear/exercisewear, and swimwear. Then follows this with 7 chapters covering various aspects of childrenswear. Yep, REALLY comprehensive. This text will function quite well as a reference volume, because it's logically organized, well indexed, tells and shows WHY the principles in question are true, and addresses problems to be solved in addition to just explaining basic elements. In addition to patternmaking instructions, the author includes lots of useful reference material, for example: names of different types of pleats, standard sizing for childrens' wear, definition of a peplum (with illustrations), recommended methods & materials for knocking off (copying) a ready-made garment, whole page of button size technical drawings, definition of parts of a classic blazer, and blank pattern charts and cost sheets (useful for manufacturing, not really for home sewing). With 821 pages nose to tail, this isn't a light read, nor will you find any color photos of designer name work. Don't buy it for your coffee table or plan to tuck it into your purse for reading in waiting rooms. But do buy it to add depth to your understanding of patterns and to expand your skillset at pattern alteration and development. If your goal is to leave behind commercial patterns and flesh out your own fashion concepts or to really figure out how mere measurements can gel into a working pattern, this text will help you do it. Since the author is an instructor of fashion design at LA's Trade Technical College, she knows how to teach and what information will really be needed. So stock up on large sheets of pattern paper, clear off a table, and dig in and enjoy!

118 of 119 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Great for learning how to manipulate patterns, February 5, 2002

By A Customer

This review is from: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Edition) (Hardcover)

I was introduced to this book through a pattern making class, and though I have not read this book page-by-page, I found to be very useful. I have a sloper of my own measurements that I use for my own designs, but this book provides a copy of various half-scale slopers you can use to practice with. There is also a chapter on making your own sloper, but I just skimmed over it.

This book teaches you the basic principles behind pattern manipulation. You can use the principles in this book to make original designs of your own. There is so much information in this book that I cannot touch on everything and keep this review short, so it's a bit long. Once you have your own sloper made, and understand the principles that this book teaches you, you will never need to buy a store bought pattern.

There are 36 chapters in this book; and just to give you an idea of how broad a scope of pattern manipulation this book touches on I'll list the chapters:
1. The work room, 2. Model Form and Measurements, 3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set, 4. Dart Manipulation (Principle #1), 5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers), 6. Stylelines, 7. Added Fullness (Principle #2), 8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks, 9. Contouring (Principle #3), 10. Collars, 11. Built-up Necklines, 12. Cowls, 13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades, 14. Sleeves, 15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop, Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes, 16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings, 17. Plackets and Pockets, 18. Dresses without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso foundation), 19. Strapless Foundations, 20. Patternmaking for Bias-cut Dresses, 21. Shirts, 22. Jackets and Coats, 23. Capes and Hoods, 24. Knock-Off-Copying Ready-Made Designs, 25. Pants, 26. Knits-Stretch and Shrinkage Factors, 27. Knit Foundaiton, 28. Actionwear for Dance and Exercise, 29. Swimwear, 30. Introduction to Childreswear, 31. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set Measurement taking Standard Measurement Charts, 32. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts, 33. Dresses and Jumpers, 34. Tops, 35. Pant and Jump Suits, 36. Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear,

81 of 84 people found the following review helpful:

1.0 out of 5 stars Problems with the Third Edition, March 23, 2001

By A Customer

This review is from: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Edition) (Hardcover)

I am using the third edition of this book for my flat pattern drafting class. Despite good recommendations, my classmates and instructors all really dislike the book. I had a chance to compare it with the second edition, and I found out why we have had so many problems (e.g., exercises not working correctly, contradictory information in the text, missing information, etc.). It seems that when the third edition was created, a lot of essential instructions and information were taken out of the book. There are also innumerable editorial errors. As a reference text, this book is voluminous although not comprehensive. A lot of the information is presented with no explanation. There is a lot of conceptual information about pattern drafting that this book doesn't include, and overall, I don't recommend it as a book for teaching oneself how to draft patterns. If you do use it as a text, be prepared to be skeptical of the exercise directions, and remember to use a lot of common sense. Personally, I am now going to try to get a copy of the second edition, because I did really like it. The exercises were easy to follow (unlike the third edition), and the book does tell how to draft just about anything.