No one interested in the history of dress, from art historians to stage designers, from museum curators to teachers of fashion and costume, can function effectively without Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion series. Since her untimely death in 1998, admirers of her work have been waiting, with increasing impatience, for the promised volume devoted to the linen clothes of the Elizabethan and early Stuart periods, a companion to her previous volume on tailored clothes of the same era. Planned and partly prepared by Janet herself, and completed by Jenny Tiramani, Janet's last pupil, no other book exists that is dedicated to the linen clothes that covered the body from the skin outwards. It contains full colour portraits and photographs of details of garments in the explanatory section, as well as patterns for 86 items of linen clothing, which range from men's shirts and women's smocks, from superb ruffs and collars to boot hose and children's stomachers. Beautifully produced, it is an invaluable guide to both the history and the recreation of these wonderful garments. There are 178 black and white illustrations and photographs, 86 patterns and detail, 433 color photographs and well as the patterns and details.
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About the Author
Janet Arnold was a historian of fashion, which combined her two greatest passions: the theatre and clothes. Her early books were conceived as aids for the fashion and theatre students she taught, but as her unique range and depth of knowledge became apparent, more and more museums and other institutions sought her advice and, today, her books are essential tools for the study of dress and have been used throughout the world. Jenny Tiramani was Janet's last pupil and during the first ten years of Shakespeare's Globe she worked with Janet's published patterns to realize accurate copies of the original garments and their accessories. Santina Levey is Janet Arnold's Literary Executor and a historian of fashion.
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22 of 23 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
"Must have" for historians and historical recreators,
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This review is from: Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660 (Patterns of Fashion) (Paperback)
This book is a really wonderful present for all costumers and especially for those who is familiar with excellent quality of Janet Arnold's books. Not only "Patterns of Fashion 4" has all the values of previous Arnold's publications, it has more!
As usual, the book is divided into 2 parts: theoretical and practical, latter including patterns and drawings of artefacts. Just to point out some definite values - for one, there are very many color(!) photographs in theoretical chapter. It's possible to see any details of textile, embroidery, lace or simple seam. Also, theoretical chapter is 50% of book (which is more than in "PF 3") and material is well structured by clothing types - Shirts & smock (men's, women's), Neckswear (ruffs, bands, rebatos, pickadils, supporters), Headwear (coifs, hoods, nightcaps), Gloves, Hose. Special attention is payed to embroidery, laces, cleaning, etc. Yet another value is traditionally good practical chapter with detailed instructions for sewing that are clearer and better than ever. For a bonus "Patterns of Fashion 4" has step-by-step instructions on "How to starch and set linen ruffs" completed with many photographs. I'm very grateful to editors and co-authors of this book - Jenny Tiramani and Santina Levey - who continue work of Janet Arnold and have prepared this publication. I highly recommend "Patterns of Fashion 4". This book is worth every penny!
14 of 15 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
A True Testament to the Legacy of Janet Arnold!,
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This review is from: Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660 (Patterns of Fashion) (Paperback)
At last, the long-awaited book has been released. Although this book is a culmination of twenty years of Miss Arnold's work, it is not the last word, rather it is the first word for inquiry and investigation. It is an inspiration for any costumer, sewer, researcher or any interested in period construction and history. I had the opportunity to see it displayed at the Costume Colloquium Conference in Florence, Italy and could not wait to get my copy. The many up-close and personal color photographs of surviving garments as well as detailed graphs are important as a primary source of study. Avoiding sounding clichéd by saying that this book is a must-have book, I will say instead that it is a necessary tool and reference for any library of costume and period design. My heartfelt thanks goes out to Jenny Tiramani and Santina Levey, who I had the pleasure of meeting at the Conference for their great work in completing this work and all those who assisted them. Forever will this work, as well as all of Miss Arnold's exhaustive work, be the foundation for costumers, historians, archaeologists, anthropologists and researchers alike. This work opens up a world of who we were in our past as seen through our dress and traditions and reminds and inspires us of the distinction and importance of true research and interpretation rather than extrapolating from paintings only.
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Fascinating study!,
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This review is from: Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660 (Patterns of Fashion) (Paperback)
Anyone interested in how people *really* dressed in Europe between 1540 and 1660 will greet this book with cries of joy. Short of making personal visits to museums all over the world you couldn't get a more detailed view of the garments on display here. Delicate lace, lavish embroidery, and meticulous stitching are all presented in a well-chosen mixture of drawings, paintings and photographs. Unlike the previous books in this series, most of the paintings and photographs are printed in full color, making them even more informative and attractive. The histories of the individual pieces of clothing are as fascinating as the way they were made; many of these items were preserved because they were associated with important historical figures and events.
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