14 of 18 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars
Clothes as a Social Statement in the United States, September 18, 2001
When immigrants first came to the United States, they were free of the tyranny of the place they were born into in their native country. But American society often pegged them by the clothes they wore, just as harshly as their birth did in the native land.
The good news was that clothes can be changed, and millions of people did just that . . . changed their appearance to look like the native-born Americans. People wanted to fit in, as part of their desire to live the free life. Is it so different now? Even the most extreme teenage styles conform to a sense of fashion that indicates that you fit in.
A Perfect Fit focuses on the period of peak immigration, from around 1890 through the 1920s. Women's and men's wear get equal emphasis, although the women's wear is vastly more interesting. You will follow hemlines up (for style and hygiene reasons), the subtleties of the right hat (not too showy), shoes into sizes (but women insisted on appearance anyway), furs (in as a sign of arriving and out as a sign of cruelty to animals), and jewelry (moderation in all things is a virtue, but a diamond does last longer than flowers). Along the way you will enjoy many fine illustrations that display the styles, advertisements, and the way these were worn by people.
A strength of the book is that it covers how people from different backgrounds responded to fashion. There is extensive coverage of what immigrant Jews favored, and a focus on African American preferences. There's even a section on the advent of the Zoot suit. The author also does a nice job of considering the tension between restrained good taste and flamboyance.
It was fascinating to think about the shock that the flapper style with bobbed hair must have been. The miniskirt and the no-bra look of the 1960s was a minor shift by comparison from what went before.
Over time, clothes have gone from formal and being a badge of status, to informal, healthy, and comfortable. Let's hope that trend continues. I like my sneakers!
A Perfect Fit also has some interesting facts in it that I did not know before. For example, the Audubon Society was formed to help stop the slaughter of herons whose feathers were prized for very showy hats. Ostrich feathers can be harvested without killing the bird, which is why you will see so many more ostrich feathers in display uses today.
As far as the book goes, it is very fine. I was disappointed that the investigation of social character did not include selections from important social thinkers of the times. It would also have been interesting to know about more types of social groups. What did Hispanic people do during this time? How were Irish-American styles different from Italian-American ones? I was also curious about what the most famous people of the time wore. And Edward Bernays is famous for his work in creating fashion during this time through color. Little is said on that subject. So think of this book as an appetizer on the subject, rather than as the whole meal. I graded the book down accordingly.
After you read this book, think about how healthful your choice of clothes is. How could you improve your selections and still feel good about yourself? How about a new hat for the holidays?
Always improve the person wearing the clothes at least as much as you improve the clothes that are worn!
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