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Performance Rock Climbing [Paperback]

Dale Goddard (Author), Udo Neumann (Author)

4.7 out of 5 stars See all reviews (13 customer reviews) |

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Book Description

Publication Date: December 1, 1993

Handbook for experienced climbers covers all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing training.

#outer_postBodyPS { display: none; } #psGradient { display: none; } #psPlaceHolder { display: none; } #psExpand { display: none; } Handbook for experienced climbers covers all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing training.

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Product Details

Paperback: 208 pages
Publisher: Stackpole Books; 1st edition (December 1, 1993)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0811722198
ISBN-13: 978-0811722193
Product Dimensions: 8.2 x 5.5 x 0.6 inches
Shipping Weight: 1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars See all reviews (13 customer reviews)

Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #428,172 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #69 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Rock Climbing

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More About the Author

› Visit Amazon's Dale Goddard Page

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Customer Reviews

13 Reviews

5 star:		(9)
4 star:		(4)
3 star:		(0)
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Average Customer Review

4.7 out of 5 stars (13 customer reviews)

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

24 of 24 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars High quality training manual for serious rock climbers, January 11, 1998

"anitarodriguez" - See all my reviews

This review is from: Performance Rock Climbing (Paperback)

Are you constantly thinking about climbing? Do you salivate when you see the clean vertical wall of your office building? If you are violently excited about climbing and are willing to seriously train for improvement, then this book is for you.

This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.

This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!

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11 of 11 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Belongs on every climbers bookshelf, December 6, 1999

james tremain (Park City, Utah) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Performance Rock Climbing (Paperback)

Looking back after buying this book two years ago reaffirmed to me that Goddard and Neumann achieved what no other climbing training book has: they combined the scientific principles of physical training with on-the-rock experience and captured it in a very readable form.

The material is detailed and informative, blending research with proven results in the form of Goddard's own climbing performance over a decade. I watched him climb a 5.14 in Logan Utah in 1995, and it was nothing short of amazing. Applying the principles has helped me improve from climbing 5.11a to 5.12.

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10 of 10 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars THE Climbing Technique Book, January 8, 2002

Mad Dog "maddog6969" (TimbuckThree, Tennessee) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Performance Rock Climbing (Paperback)

Improving one's ability in any endeavor can be difficult once one has practiced for a few years. One might think that there's not all that much technique involved in rock climbing, since the climber has but two arms and two legs. But it's not that simple. Performance Rock Climbing breaks climbing down into a number of aspects, then teaches how to optimize each and combine the parts into a whole.

When this book hit the shelves, I had stagnated for a few years, unable to improve. Within 6 months, my onsight leading level had jumped nearly a whole grade. I'd learned to channel my energy for climbing in a more efficient way, and to reduce climbing related injuries. Rather than just exercising the climbing muscles, I learned to better exercise my mind - perhaps the most critical muscle of all for a climber.

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Most Recent Customer Reviews

5.0 out of 5 stars Awesome book, great condition!
This book is awesome and it was sent in excellent condition. Would definitely do business with again, thanks!

Published 16 months ago by Climber

4.0 out of 5 stars This book is cult
Although it has been written 15 years ago it's anything but antiquated (apart from the cover maybe). Easy to read and very descriptive. Read more

Published on August 27, 2008 by Yannik Behr

5.0 out of 5 stars Climber's Training Bible
I bought this book about five years ago and have used it extensively. If you are looking for a book on how to climb, this is not the book. Read more

Published on March 24, 2008 by Joshua R. Hewlett

5.0 out of 5 stars Easy to understand book giving the why and providing the how
I thoroughly enjoyed the blend of pure science and application to on rock performance.

The authors are world renowned climbers with a clear enthusiasm for the sport... Read more

Published on July 19, 2005 by Rehan Dost

5.0 out of 5 stars An excellent resource
This book will not tell you how to hold onto a tiny crimpy hold with one finger while your feet hunt for somewhere to stand. Read more

Published on July 16, 2003 by A. Wilson

5.0 out of 5 stars Move forward now or get off the rock
Imagine a pursuit that requires bloody fingers to excel at, a life or death commitment to succed in almost any areas of, and then take a look at this book. Read more

Published on February 22, 2002 by killis howard

5.0 out of 5 stars GREAT
If you buy only one rock climbing book, this should be it!! Great overview of training techniques and what you can do on and off rock to improve your overall conditioning and... Read more

Published on October 10, 2001

4.0 out of 5 stars Useful but occasionally confusing
This is the definitive book on how to train for rock climbing. It includes various different types of training and how to incorporate them into workouts both on and off the... Read more

Published on September 5, 2000 by K. Freeman

4.0 out of 5 stars Very technical guide to improving your climbing abilities
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for... Read more

Published on September 5, 1997 by E. Hicaro

4.0 out of 5 stars The best training guide for climbers in the english language
Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard combined their knowledge of climbing and training to write the most complete training and technique guide available today. Read more

Published on December 21, 1996

› See all 13 customer reviews...

Front Cover | Table of Contents | First Pages | Back Cover | Surprise Me!

Inside This Book (learn more)

First Sentence:
So many different factors contribute to your climbing performance. Read the first page

Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
engram control, aerobic energy restoration, local endurance training, general endurance training, movement engrams, athletic recovery, progression pyramid, static climbing, inner triad, hypertrophy training, intermuscular coordination, progressive repetition, maximum recruitment, motor engrams, climbing performance, active flexibility, passive flexibility, triad processes, climbing demands, boulder problem, climbing situations, contact strength, anaerobic training, climbing style, many climbers

Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Dale Goddard, World Championships, Behavioral Approaches, Next Series, City of Rocks, Wolfgang G�llich

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Books on Related Topics | Concordance | Text Stats

Browse Sample Pages:
Front Cover | Table of Contents | First Pages | Back Cover | Surprise Me!

Citations (learn more)

This book cites 11 books:

Scientific Bases of Human Movement by Barbara A. Gowitzke in Back Matter
Neurophysiology: The Essentials by George G. Somjen in Back Matter
Human Memory: The Processing of Information by G. R. Loftus in Back Matter
The Stress of Life by Hans Selye in Back Matter
Muscles, Reflexes, and Locomotion by Thomas A. McMahon in Back Matter

See all 11 books this book cites

13 books cite this book:

Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance by Eric J. Horst on page 4, Back Matter (1), and Back Matter (2)
Climbing Your Best: Training to Maximize Your Performance by Heather Reynolds Sagar on page 75, page 90, and Back Matter
Rock & Ice Gear: Equipment for the Vertical World by Clyde Soles in Back Matter
Bouldering with Bobbi Bensman (Climbing Specialist Series) by Bobbi Bensman on page 50
Conditioning for Outdoor Fitness by David Musnick on page 286

See all 13 books citing this book

Books on Related Topics (learn more)

Rock Climbing by Craig Luebben

Discusses:

Training for Climbing by Eric J. H�rst

Discusses:

The Rock Warrior's Way by Arno Ilgner

Discusses:

Climbing by Clyde Soles

Discusses:

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