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Performance Rock Climbing Paperback – December 1, 1993
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Top Customer Reviews
This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.
This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!
When this book hit the shelves, I had stagnated for a few years, unable to improve. Within 6 months, my onsight leading level had jumped nearly a whole grade. I'd learned to channel my energy for climbing in a more efficient way, and to reduce climbing related injuries. Rather than just exercising the climbing muscles, I learned to better exercise my mind - perhaps the most critical muscle of all for a climber.
The material is detailed and informative, blending research with proven results in the form of Goddard's own climbing performance over a decade. I watched him climb a 5.14 in Logan Utah in 1995, and it was nothing short of amazing. Applying the principles has helped me improve from climbing 5.11a to 5.12.
The authors are world renowned climbers with a clear enthusiasm for the sport and lucid understanding of it's foundations.
Succinctly, the authors view performance climbing as a harmonious blend of physical and psychological factors, the former subdivided into co-ordination ( technique ),balance, endurance, strength and flexibility.
The book is premised on the concept of the weak link which determines the greatest hinderance to climbing.
For example a body builder who climbs should not work on strength but rather flexibility and technique.
Similarly, a ballerina should not work on balance and flexibility but rather strength and technique.
The key to pushing the grades is to identify your weakest link and train to improve it.
The book is replete with training regimens, exercises, and techniques which address each area stated above.
The single best strategy implicit in the book is to identify when you reach a plateau and to realize that you are now training incorrectly. You should now strive to identify what is now your weakest link and train it. This cycle should continue as long as climb and wish to improve.
A four grade improvement is possible and should be expected within 3 months of adapting your current climbing strategy to this book.
This is not a recipe book, because in climbing, there is no recipe. Everyone climbs under a different set of constraints - strength, weight, skill, etc. This is a book that will give you the tools you need to watch your own climbing and improve it. Read it cover to cover.
The only difficult thing about the book is that you won't come away knowing exactly what routine you will follow. That's alright! You'll need to put in the effort to figure out a training plan that work for you.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
The book has many useful tips on technique and training. The text and illustrations are clear and helpful.Published 1 month ago by Jon Nelson
Cool psychology about training your brain and body to move efficiently through diverse moves. Moral of the story: practice consciouslyPublished 3 months ago by Jake B.
If you want to learn about exercise physiology this is the best non-academic book I have foundPublished 14 months ago by C. Robinson
A great book about training, for climbing specifically, or for any activity that calls for 10k hours/mastery.
The cartoons are a nice touch.
Don't let the publication date fool you - this is the BEST book - don't train without it! It discusses things that the "new" books overlook - important things you will want to... Read morePublished on October 12, 2012 by LOC
This book is awesome and it was sent in excellent condition. Would definitely do business with again, thanks!Published on September 14, 2010 by Climber
Although it has been written 15 years ago it's anything but antiquated (apart from the cover maybe). Easy to read and very descriptive. Read morePublished on August 27, 2008 by Yannik Behr
I bought this book about five years ago and have used it extensively. If you are looking for a book on how to climb, this is not the book. Read morePublished on March 24, 2008 by Joshua H.