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Performance Rock Climbing Paperback – December 1, 1993

4.8 out of 5 stars 19 customer reviews

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Product Details

  • Paperback: 208 pages
  • Publisher: Stackpole Books; 1st edition (December 1, 1993)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0811722198
  • ISBN-13: 978-0811722193
  • Product Dimensions: 5.5 x 0.6 x 8.2 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 5.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (19 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #377,640 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

Format: Paperback
Are you constantly thinking about climbing? Do you salivate when you see the clean vertical wall of your office building? If you are violently excited about climbing and are willing to seriously train for improvement, then this book is for you.
This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.
This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!
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Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
Improving one's ability in any endeavor can be difficult once one has practiced for a few years. One might think that there's not all that much technique involved in rock climbing, since the climber has but two arms and two legs. But it's not that simple. Performance Rock Climbing breaks climbing down into a number of aspects, then teaches how to optimize each and combine the parts into a whole.
When this book hit the shelves, I had stagnated for a few years, unable to improve. Within 6 months, my onsight leading level had jumped nearly a whole grade. I'd learned to channel my energy for climbing in a more efficient way, and to reduce climbing related injuries. Rather than just exercising the climbing muscles, I learned to better exercise my mind - perhaps the most critical muscle of all for a climber.
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Format: Paperback
Looking back after buying this book two years ago reaffirmed to me that Goddard and Neumann achieved what no other climbing training book has: they combined the scientific principles of physical training with on-the-rock experience and captured it in a very readable form.
The material is detailed and informative, blending research with proven results in the form of Goddard's own climbing performance over a decade. I watched him climb a 5.14 in Logan Utah in 1995, and it was nothing short of amazing. Applying the principles has helped me improve from climbing 5.11a to 5.12.
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Format: Paperback
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for climbing. Some of their writing is a bit scientific (sounding more like a college textbook at times), but they offset this with amusing anecdotes and cartoons. Lots of great 'beta' on technique as well as being a essential training guide for all areas and levels of rock sport
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Format: Paperback
Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard combined their knowledge of climbing and training to write the most complete training and technique guide available today. The book will benefit everyone from beginners to experts
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Format: Paperback
I thoroughly enjoyed the blend of pure science and application to on rock performance.

The authors are world renowned climbers with a clear enthusiasm for the sport and lucid understanding of it's foundations.

Succinctly, the authors view performance climbing as a harmonious blend of physical and psychological factors, the former subdivided into co-ordination ( technique ),balance, endurance, strength and flexibility.

The book is premised on the concept of the weak link which determines the greatest hinderance to climbing.

For example a body builder who climbs should not work on strength but rather flexibility and technique.

Similarly, a ballerina should not work on balance and flexibility but rather strength and technique.

The key to pushing the grades is to identify your weakest link and train to improve it.

The book is replete with training regimens, exercises, and techniques which address each area stated above.

The single best strategy implicit in the book is to identify when you reach a plateau and to realize that you are now training incorrectly. You should now strive to identify what is now your weakest link and train it. This cycle should continue as long as climb and wish to improve.

A four grade improvement is possible and should be expected within 3 months of adapting your current climbing strategy to this book.
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Format: Paperback
This book will not tell you how to hold onto a tiny crimpy hold with one finger while your feet hunt for somewhere to stand. It WILL tell you lots of things about how muscules work, what good training looks like, and what good climbing feels like.
This is not a recipe book, because in climbing, there is no recipe. Everyone climbs under a different set of constraints - strength, weight, skill, etc. This is a book that will give you the tools you need to watch your own climbing and improve it. Read it cover to cover.
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Format: Kindle Edition Verified Purchase
This is a great book that will teach you how to train yourself versus just following pre-made training routines that may not be what you need. In a world where we're constantly being taught that we need to follow pre-set proven routines this book shines. The great part about it is that is doesn't only cover the strength aspect or training. It covers technique, stretching, strategy, and the mental side of training.

The only difficult thing about the book is that you won't come away knowing exactly what routine you will follow. That's alright! You'll need to put in the effort to figure out a training plan that work for you.
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