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on February 6, 2012
These Philips LED DRLs are well built, bright, rugged, and the supplied harness and hardware are top notch. Heatsinking is excellent so the LEDs should remain bright for the life of the car. The LEDs on my units are also of matched tint with none appearing particularly warmer or cooler. Overall the tint is a cool white which goes well with HID headlights, but my halogen fogs look very yellow next to these. They are not as surprisingly bright as I was hoping for after reading the reviews here, but isn't that how it always is with high expectations. (EDIT: After 3 weeks in varying weather I can say they are satisfyingly bright. I find myself driving off at night forgetting to turn my headlights on since they do illuminate the road to a degree.)

Hookup is easy - 3 wires: battery +/-, and one lead to a parking light. The control module has two excellent waterproof plugs that connect to the lights. The lights have sufficiently long wires with matching plugs at the end. All wire is protected by a gloss black vinyl tubing. The lead to the parking light was not long enough for my installation (control module mounted on center of firewall to left front park light).

The lights function by sensing change in battery load and automatically turn on. When the module senses the battery is in a steady state the lights turn off after ~10 seconds. This works well enough, but has some quirks. My car has delayed-off dome lights. So when I open the door and trigger the dome lights, the module senses the current and the DRLs turn on (no key in ignition). Not quite 10 seconds later the DRLs turn off (meanwhile my dome lights are still on). Then when my dome lights turn off, the module senses another change and turns the DRLs on again for 10 seconds. So while this could seem like a fancy convenience function of the DRLs, it is the consequence of the simplified hookup design. I do not find this objectionable except when the battery is connected to a charger that is cycling on and off and the lights are turning on/off as well. Personally I would have preferred wiring them to the ignition or the option to. As is when I approach the car and unlock the doors with my remote, the DRLs come on and help locate the car as well as illuminate the walk toward it - not a bad thing. UPDATE: Upon installing a new battery I found the DRLs no longer turn on when I operate the remote. The old battery was tired and exhibited a larger voltage drop when the dome lights turned on whereas the new battery maintains voltage better and does not trigger the control module. The lights now turn on with the engine, but only with the engine. I believe this is how they were designed to function and my initial experience was due to a weak battery. If the lights begin to operate again with my remote I will know my battery is starting to weaken.

The LEDs dim when the park/headlights are on unless the park light lead is not hooked up. These are bright enough that oncoming drivers will be annoyed if they are not dimmed at night. The control module uses PWM dimming which is basically a superfast strobe. This is noticeable when waving your hand in front of them, but not when driving.

I measured the current to the system and it was 1.25 A on hi, and 110 mA when dimmed which figures to 16 and 1.4 watts. By contrast my two dome light bulbs draw 680 mA each or 17 watts for the pair, more than the DRLs on hi.

Depending on your vehicle, installation may be more involved that the 2 hr. estimate. My car (2003 Audi S6) has lower grilles which are not ideal for directly mounting these. I fabricated some brackets that bolted to the bumper support and secured the lights into openings I cut in the grilles (I uploaded a customer pic of the finished install).

If you do mount as suggested by screwing the frames to the car then snapping the lights into the frames, be advised it will be difficult to remove them. The frames are a strong spring steel and snap securely over the light housings in matching recesses. So once the light is snapped into the frame they are flush, and once in the frames the lights obstruct the mounting screws. Removing the lights would require prying the frames up to free the locking tabs - something I'd rather not attempt. There is another suggested mounting option - directly bolting them to the car via two M5 tapped holes in the back of the housings and not using the frames, but there are no M5 bolts included in the kit.

My car requires removal of the front end for certain engine maintenance. As such I wish there was also a disconnect plug at the lights and not just at the control box. Removal of the lights would require unplugging at the control box and feeding all the wire back through - PITA. I ended up adding disconnects at the lights and making 2-piece mouting brackets so I could remove the lights, their frames, and part of the bracket easily as one unit without having to pry the lights out of the frames. When I added the disconnects I removed most of the excess wire and used some to extend the park light lead which was short.

The only non-OEM quality part in the kit is the connection for the lead to the park lights, a Scotchlok-style tap splice. I've had problems with corrosion over time with these, so I placed a blob of silicone in it before I squeezed it to encapsulate the connection.

Overall I am very satisfied with them and have confidence they will last. I would have liked the ability to disconnect the lights at the housings and a more disassembly-friendly design, but depending on your vehicle these may be non-issues. If you have an easy install or have the means regardless, these exude quality and will not disappoint. I rate it 5 stars for the quality of the components and for what it is - a universal kit. Installed on my Audi they look and perform every bit OEM.

UPDATE: it is now 12/2014, approaching 3 years of daily use and not one glitch. The price has come down almost $70, but I am still happy at the price I paid and would purchase them all over again.
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on June 19, 2012
Just had these installed in my 2008 Infiniti G37. The lights look good and function more or less as advertised (come on bright, dim when other lights come on), but I also noticed the lights had a blinking duty cycle in dim mode when I stopped after 30 minutes of driving (see video). This is not documented, but is exactly as LAQ described. There must be a reason for this. My lights were professionally installed according to the directions.

Philips Automotive (248-553-9080) first advised the blinking was because the 3rd wire to enable dimming is connected to a circuit that has auto-on capability (my marker light, parking light or city light whatever you want to call it). Most modern vehicles have sensors to automatically turn on lights at night or in tunnels. Philip's advised this capability conflicts with the DRL's auto-dimming function; even during the daytime when the headlights don't come on! One or the other must be disabled. I removed this 3rd wire on the DRL leaving the DRL's permanently in their bright mode. UPDATE: Cutting the wire to the parking light had no effect - the lights still blinked. After further discussion with Philips, they commented the Daylight 8 LEDs are designed in Europe and when installed on many North American vehicles the (voltage?) tolerances are not the same. They sent me a new control module (Alternative Control box ACC/KL15 starter)with one additional wire to a fuse box. Once installed again, the lights performed as advertised. I downgraded my rating from 4 stars to 3 stars as this issue was not documented and I was given incorrect advice the first time. Philips is not only aware, they have an alternate module ready - this situation should be both documented and a warning to clients. I had to pay twice for the 2 installations and a lot of lost time debugging a known issue.

Philips attempted to make the connections idiot proof by utilizing a 2-wire control module with a voltage sensor to determine when the lights should change modes. Unfortunately it doesn't work for all vehicles so be forewarned. In my opinion, the traditional 3-wire connections to a fused relay is more complicated to install but gives predictable results.

I also note the lights are quite directional. Mine were installed to match the shape of the bumper which has a slight curve where mounted. Consequently they point a little bit to the side, perhaps 10 degrees. I don't consider this an issue as they are not the primary source of illuminating the road ahead of the vehicle. In fact it could be beneficial as they complement the front pointing projection lights.

They are bright and slim providing an even more modern look to my car.
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on May 2, 2012
Based upon the glowing reviews for this product, I decided to make the investment in the LED DayLight 8 running lights for my new F-150 King Ranch. The product is well-made, lives up to all of the reviews, and the shipment was prompt and problem-free. Installation was relatively straight-forward, although the instructions for the wiring sequence were a little confusing and I hadn't anticipated the need to remove the entire headlight assembly to access the wire to the parking light. I was very pleased with the end result, until a few days later when someone on the street pointed out that the running lights were flashing on and off. It seems that after the vehicle runs about a minute, the running lights begin flashing...5 seconds on and 2 seconds off. It appears the control box may be overheating....which seems further supported by the fact that the flashing stops when the running lights are in "dim mode" when the headlights are on. Convinced a replacement control box would fix the problem, I called the Philips support number that is listed on the instructions and on the box the running lights came in. This phone number is for the household lighting division, which is totally unfamiliar with this product. They transferred me to the automotive division...which appears to only be able to help consumers identify which replacement light bulbs to buy for their vehicles. After several circular conversations it became evident that Philips was unable / unwilling to help the point that it seemed they had never heard of this product. These results are very disappointing. The LED Daylight 8 running lights were a great addition to my truck and I am very frustrated that after spending over 2 hours to install them, I now have to uninstall them tonight so that UPS can pick them up tomorrow to return Amazon. Since I'm not willing to invest the time for another installation with potentially similar results, I didn't request a replacement set.
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on August 29, 2013
This is the best DIY DRL LED lights available in the market comparable to Hella brand less $100. The box has everything you need to install your project which includes the wiring harness, control module, self-tapping screws, plastic ties and instructions. The housings are really well built with the provided snap mounts. I installed this on my 2012 Honda Odyssey with matching SMD LED 9005 DRLs, had to put error free resistors to cancel the MID error code. I have a photo of my van but like other reviewers, the picture really does not represent the true brightness. There's a lot of youtube step by step process but the install cannot be easier you don't need any videos.

Update 090813:
I noticed that my DRLs blink when traveling at about 10mph with stop & go motion. I noticed that other people who bought and installed it on Hondas or Acuras experience this as well. I emailed Mike Woloson and requested for an updated module to fix the problem. I will wait for his response.

Update 091213:
Received from Mr. Mike Woloson a replacement module ACC/KL15 yesterday via FEDEX and I just installed it today. It works! Before I received this module, I temporarily connected the power to a vacant fuse terminal 7 but of course nothing beats the original module. Great customer service from Mr. Woloson - kudos to you sir!

I was having second thoughts whether to use the dimming feature or not because I noticed a bluish hue when it's dimmed. I disconnected it last week but decided to reconnect it today to comply with regulations. It is very bright at night and might cause glare to some drivers.


Update 101613:
I'm posting some images on how I connected the blue wire on my 2012 Honda Odyssey Touring. You can either hardwire it to open slot#7 on the fuse box at the engine compartment passenger side or use a fuse accessory unit (Autozone $7), the orientation is very important. I'm still observing my lights, the complete on and off blinking was solved but lately I've been noticing that it's still blinking...although hard to see because the lights are not turning off, it seems the fluctuation in current is still affecting it somehow.

Update: 082314
Can't believe it's almost a year ago when I installed these and no more blinking. The performance is the same as the day I installed them, seems to be very reliable.
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on April 20, 2013
I got a set of these lights to install on my '04 Toyota 4Runner. They seem to work fine so far and are bright and easy to see in the daytime. I wasn't able to use the supplied mounting brackets to snap them into and had to make some from pieces of aluminum angle bracket material instead. Except for that they were easy to install in just a couple of hours.
Also, if you don't connect the switch wire to your headlights then you need to ground it or the lights will flicker.
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on October 8, 2013
First, the product. This is a well built unit, it has metal body and felt solid. Definitely give you the confident that it will last. And man they are bright. They are easily visible during the day. At full power at night, its even a little too bright (too much glare). I am glad that the module has the capability to auto dim when the parking light is on when wired correctly.

The installation is easy (enough). The module does wonder to turn the DRL on when the engine is running, off when its not. I have not wired the wires to control the auto dimming yet, because it was dark by the time I got most of the installation done. I will probably do that when I have the time.

So far things are working as intended and I have no complain. I used 3M auto trim tape to secure the LED modules, just tape them on the front bumper. And they seem secure and doesn't move a bit. I am going to check them from time to time just to make sure the tape doesn't come lose.

Then its the customer service. I have a 2012 Honda Odyssey EX-L and I read from reviews that I need the replacement module ACC/KL15 for the DRL to function properly. I emailed Mike Woloson <> and he promptly Fedex the replacement module to me and that's what I am using right now. The service is quick and awesome. No hoops to jump through to get the replacement module. Can't ask for a better and quicker turn around time. Props to Mike for outstanding work.

** UPDATE 01/02/2014 **
I did the control box wiring and it seems to be working. Here's what I did.

- I wired the orange wire from the control box to the top red wire (it reads about +11V when parking light is on, the middle black wire is the ground, and the 3rd (brown?) wire reads +3V when turn signal is on) of the left parking light
- I wired the blue wire from the control box used a "add a fuse" to the #7 fuse in the large fuse box in the right hand side of the engine compartment.

And here's what's happening:

- If I wired up just the orange wire only, the DLR will flicker at slow speed or stopped at the traffic light.
- I wired up both orange and blue wires and everything seems to be working as designed
- The DLR will power on full when the power tail gate is lowering
- The DLR will power on full when the engine is off, ignition is ON
- The DLR will power on low whenever the parking light is on, regardless if the engine is on or ignition is on or not
- The DLR will power on high when I use the power tail gate when the key is out of ignition
- When I lock the doors via remote, the DLR will power on low and flicker when the parking light flashes.
- Otherwise it is working as advertised, the DLR will power on full with the engine is running during the day, and then power on low whenever parking light on.
- I have also pulled the factory DLR fuse (IIRC, its the #27 fuse on the left driver side fuse box under the steering wheel to disable the factory DLR
- The 3M automotive tapes is holding up well so far with the light

** UPDATE 03/02/2015 **
So far, the 3M tape still held up very well, there LED module are not going anywhere. Still working well.

One thing I noticed with the LED DLR light is that they will light up when I connect the car battery to a battery tender to keep the battery topped up. Not a big deal if I only connect the battery tender for a like half a day. But if the van needs to be stored longer and keep it "plugged in", then I would have to disconnect the LED DLR (or install a switch) in order to keep the battery tender going.
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VINE VOICEon November 6, 2011
Got the kit and it has everything you really need and the instructions are very clear, with a minor exception.

Installed them on my 2010 Infiniti FX35. Had a hard time figuring out how to mount them, and then had a brain flash. I bought some 2" aluminum solid angle stock (like National Mfg. N342360 Aluminum Solid Angle and cut piece the same length as the mounting brackets you can see in the picture of the kit. Mounted the brackets on the L facing under the top part (can't figure out how to say that clearly, will take some pictures). Make sure you drill a hole large enough for the wire to go through in the center of the bracket. drilled pilot holes for the mounting using #14 License Plate Screws. Positioned the bracket in the air vents on either side of the license plate and put the screws in at the junction of the internal bumper and the black cushion material. It is strong enough to hold the lights, yet you don't have to drill into body metal to do it. The 2" hang down was perfect and the lights are both well protected and easily seen. Ran the wires along the internal bumper and up on the passenger side where there was a perfect rubber dam that punched through to go into the battery compartment. The Philips relay I mounted using existing threaded holes outside the battery compartment. All you do is hook the wires to the + and - sides of the battery and the Relay works as stated, you start the car and the lights come on. Turn the engine off and the lights time out after about 20 seconds.

Only problem is that I have a USA version of the FX35 that doesn't have daylight running lights to begin with, so the auto dimming function doesn't have a place to attach the sensor wire. Going to discuss it with my mechanic next time I am in as it just needs to hooked to the hot side wire for the running lights. The lights just stay on bright right now, which isn't bad, just want to use all of the functions the Philips built in to the lights. They say in the instructions that you have to disable the auto headlights function, but that isn't really true on USA cars.

The lights are very bright and I am really happy I got the 8-led light instead of the 4-led light for my particular car. You notice them and they look factory or expensive custom. Much easier than putting on "Angel Eyes".
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on October 28, 2014
Exceptionally well made and complete kit. Outstanding Philips Customer Service (replaced Euro control for USA specific). At least 3x the quality; 25% greater light output in a smaller case; and less than half the price of than Hella. And regards to Hella - NO customer service. I bought a $600 xenon DE Micro Premium kit and do you think Hella would respond to questions? Not on your life. Six months later and nothing but dead air.
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on February 11, 2014
Wow, superb addition to my Infiniti G37S IPL! Outstanding packaging for an exceptional product. I bought all PHILIPS replacement bulbs as they are superior to any other maker. Solid performance and the kind of light output that puts a smile on your face. If you are bored with the driving at night look through your windshield, you can fix that with these. Looks totally OEM and not one once of ricer blue. Brilliant white crisp light. No flicker and high quality weatherproof housing!
I was very impressed to the point of writing a small review. No drama installation. Great all around and loving me the quality!
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on July 23, 2014
On my 1967 Chevelle, they hide well until they come on, then you see them really well. At one time I used my headlights as DRL and always left them on, draining battery. Now I don't have to do that anymore. Follow the directions and you will be seen!
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