Pig: King of the Southern Table [Hardcover]

James Villas (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: April 26, 2010

A nose-to-tail guide to the very best Southern pork recipes, from award-winning food writer James Villas

Though beef, poultry, and fish all have their place in Southern cuisine, one animal stands snout and shoulders above the rest—the mighty pig. From bacon to barbecue, from pork loin to pork belly, James Villas's Pig: King of the Southern Table presents the pride of the South in all its glory. 300 mouth-watering recipes range from the basics like sausages, ribs, and ham to creative ideas involving hashes, burgers, gumbos, and casseroles.

A North Carolina native, Villas doesn't just provide great pork recipes but also brings the spirit of Southern cooking alive with tasty cultural and historical tidbits and favorite recipes from beloved restaurants like Louis Osteen's on Pawley's Island and Crook's Corner in Chapel Hill. With gorgeous full-color photography and recipes from Maryland to Louisiana and everywhere in between, Pig is the definitive take on the South's favorite animal.

• Includes 300 recipes for pork dishes of all kinds, including appetizers, soups, sides, rice dishes, and even breads
• Features recipes like Cajun Boudin Rice Sausage, Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin with Dates and Walnuts, Mississippi Spice-Stuffed Baked Ham, and Collard Greens with Pork Belly
• Offers more than just recipes—the book includes a pig-parts primer, a glossary of pig cooking terms, and cooking tips and sidebars throughout
• Written by James Villas, winner of two James Beard Journalism Awards and former food and wine editor of Town & Country magazine for 27 years

Whether you're planning the perfect summer barbecue or just looking for new ideas for family dinners, Pig shares the secrets of great Southern cooking with every corner of the nation.

Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Starred Review. If pig is indeed king, then there is trouble at the castle, for Villas (Dancing in the Lowcountry) has stormed the gates and had at him, leaving no sweetbread, shoulder, or chop untasted. So let the commoners rejoice: here are 300 recipes from Southern hog heaven that are juicy, flirtatious, and, at times, scary. Brave hearts will want to immediately dive into the Variety and Special Meats chapter for some deviled pork liver; hog's head stew; and brains and eggs. The upper crust might prefer a pork pie. Choices include spicy Tennessee sausage; Pork, Apple and Raisin; or Bacon and Corn. A section on barbecue and ribs includes both North and South Carolina styles of BBQ and half a dozen sparerib options. And where lesser authors might stray off-topic when moving to side dishes, Villas, with 13 cookbooks and two James Beard awards under his belt, knows better. All 39 vegetable and rice dishes are chock full of oink, from the mushy turnips with bacon and pork to the slab bacon hoppin' John. Similarly, there are 20 breads that are decidedly not fat-free. That other Southern king, Elvis, would surely have appreciated the bacon-peanut butter muffins, perhaps chased down with a lard hoecake or some bacon-grease hush puppies. (May)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Review

"Pig is so good you can taste it. Villas brings all of his expertise and passion into this wide-ranging, highly readable discourse on the lordly staple of Southern cookery." -John Berendt, author of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil "No one is more qualified to write about the 'King of the Southern Table' than the King of Southern Cooking himself, James Villas. The book is loaded with mouthwatering recipes and does double duty as an anthropological text-Villas shows us that the many different Southern tribes have different uses for the mighty pig. So it is that we are given North Carolina Eastern-Style Chopped or Pulled 'Cue, Lowcountry Chicken and Ham Perloo, and dozens of dishes in between, including Tennessee Sausage Spoon Bread and Bill Neal's Braised Pork Chops with Limas and Whole Garlic I'm dying to try. With Pig, the noble Villas has given us his usual definitive work." -Julia Reed, author of Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties and The House on First Street: My New Orleans Story "What a book! A Southerner weaned on pork, a connoisseur of 'cue and country ham, of sausage, souse, and scrapple as well as all the fresh cuts, Jim Villas knows the 'King of the Southern Table' better than anyone. He writes with passion and authority, tells you exactly what you need to know about pork, then dishes up a juicy everything-but-the-squeal collection of recipes-some homespun, some high-on-the-hog, and many as easy as one, two, three. If you like pork, you'll love Pig. And that's a promise." -Jean Anderson , author of A Love Affair with Southern Cooking

Ham Croquettes with Parsley Sauce

Ham Croquettes with Parsley Sauce

Makes 6 servings

I am still on the bandwagon to restore all croquettes (meat, poultry, and seafood) to the prominent role they once played in every country-club dining room and department-store restaurant in the South, and none do I relish more than those made with some form of ham and served with a mustard, tomato, or cream sauce, or with this subtle parsley sauce. In truth, a well-made, carefully fried ham croquette is delicious just by itself (either as an appetizer or main course), and for ideal texture, I remain convinced that the mixture for these croquettes should be chilled overnight before being formed into patties. As with all croquettes, feel free to experiment with different secondary ingredients (olives, capers, bell peppers, and so on).

For the Sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup whole milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

For the Croquettes:
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
3 scallions (white parts only), finely chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus extra for dredging
1 cup milk
4 cups coarsely chopped cooked ham
3 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon dried sage, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large egg, beaten with 2 tablespoons water
2 cups fine dry bread crumbs
Peanut oil for frying

1. To make the sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan over moderately low heat, add the flour, and stir till a smooth paste forms. Gradually add the milk, stirring till thickened and smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the salt and pepper and parsley, stir till well blended, and keep the sauce warm over very low heat.

2. To make the croquettes, melt the butter in a saucepan over moderate heat, add the scallions and flour, and whisk till soft and well blended, about 2 minutes. Whisking rapidly, add the milk till well blended; add the ham, stir well, and remove from the heat. Whisking rapidly, add the egg yolks, return to the heat, add the mustard, sage, and salt and pepper, and whisk till well blended. Scrape the mixture into a dish, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

3. With your hands, divide the mixture into 6 balls and roll lightly in the extra flour. Pat the balls into smooth oval patties, dip briefly into the egg wash, dredge in the bread crumbs, and place on a plate till ready to fry.

4. In a large, heavy skillet, heat about 1 inch of oil over moderately high heat for about 1 minute, fry the patties till golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side, and drain briefly on paper towels. Serve the croquettes with the parsley sauce on the side.

See all Editorial Reviews

Product Details

• Hardcover: 472 pages
• Publisher: Wiley; 1 edition (April 26, 2010)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0470194014
• ISBN-13: 978-0470194010
• Product Dimensions: 9.2 x 8.2 x 1.5 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (15 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #27,759 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

I was born and bred in the South, have 3 university degrees in language and literature (Fulbright scholar), and taught in 3 universities before changing careers and becoming Food and Wine Editor of TOWN and COUNTRY (1972-1999). I've published 14 cookbooks and 4 literary books on gastronomy. My first novel, DANCING IN THE LOW COUNTRY, was published in 2008; my second, HUNGRY FOR HAPPINESS, in 2010; and I'm currently working on a dog novel titled NUTMEG: THE BEAGLE WHO PLAYS BRAHMS. My last cookbook, PIG: KING OF THE SOUTHERN TABLE, won the James Beard Award for 2010, and my newest one, FROM THE GROUND UP, will be published in October, 2011. I live in East Hampton, Long Island, where I devote my time to writing cookbooks and fiction and pursuing my love of great music.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

27 of 28 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars James Beard Award Number 3?, June 7, 2010

By 

robert holmes (Greensboro, North Carolina) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

Amazon Verified Purchase

This review is from: Pig: King of the Southern Table (Hardcover)

If James Villas doesn't garner his third James Beard award for PIG, I'll be very surprised.

It's been said that in the South every part of the pig except the squeal is used. As I read my way through PIG, I about halfway expected Villas to show us a recipe using the squeal.

This is an exeptional book. You know when you buy a cookbook by James Villas that every recipe has been tested and works. You know Villas wrote every word himself....not a given in these days of ghost written celebrity cook books. Villas is a masterful writer. His directions are clear and thorough. The book is beautiful.

James Villas is a native of North Carolina. He still comes back home on a regular basis to stock up on Southern products. If I had to nominate just 2 cook book writers for my Southern hall of fame, they would be Jean Anderson (LOVE AFFAIR WITH SOUTHERN COOKING, another North Carolina native who had the good sense to move back home from NYC, and James Villas. We're still working on him.

PIG is a must buy for anybody with a love for pork and the food of the South.

11 of 11 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars The pig, the whole pig, and nothing but things that enhance the enjoyment of eating pig., September 8, 2010

By 

Craig Matteson (Saline, MI) - See all my reviews
(TOP 500 REVIEWER)    (HALL OF FAME REVIEWER)    (REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Pig: King of the Southern Table (Hardcover)

This is a book that explores the importance of the pig to Southern cooking. The author refers to pig instead of pork because the book explores dishes for every part of the entire animal rather than just the usual muscle and flesh pieces we regularly call pork. Mr. Villas doesn't fill the book with essays other than the introductory material. But Villas includes his marvelous insights as introductions to each recipe. His award winning writing style and vast experience as a food writer and editor show in this book's entertaining and informative readability as well as through its utility as a cookbook. I also enjoyed the little quotations that are at the end of many of the two-page recipes. And the photos are collected into sections with page numbers for the associated recipes. They are of extremely high quality as one would expect from a magazine editor.

But don't expect a mere recipe book of dishes Villas collected as an explorer into Southern Cookery. He knows this food to the depth of his soul. Most of the recipes are his own, his family's, and some included are identified as coming from locations and people he has gotten to know along the way. When he identifies that they came from others he also lets us know if he has made his own tweak on it.

He begins with a wonderful section on Appetizers and Salads. Oh, yes, we get Smithfield Ham Spread, Kentucky Potted Ham, Crisp Potato Skins with Cheese and Bacon, Spicy Sausage Balls, and Pork Liver Pate. But we also get a recipe for Souse, another for Pork Cracklin' Black Eyed Pea and Shrimp Salad, Pig Knuckle Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette, Congealed Ham and Orange Salad, and Tennis Ball salad with Salt Pork-Buttermilk Dressing. And many more treats.
And where would the world be without pig based soups, chowders, and gumbos? I think we will all be instantly attracted to the things like Spiced Pork Meatball Soup, Plantation Pork and Rice Soup, Creole Seafood, Sausage, and Okra Gumbo, Birmingham Red Bean and Ham Bone Soup. But I encourage a deeper look at things like Pot Likker Soup (Pot Likker is the glorious cooking water for fresh greens of all types), or the Outer Banks Muddle (a mess of fish), or the traditional Good Friday dish, and Gumbo z'Herbes. And, of course, there are many more.

Then there are Stews, Casseroles, and Stratas. No book on Southern Cookery would be complete without a recipe for Brunswick Stew and the author's Virginia take is a good one as is his recipe for Frogmore Stew. But also try the Pork and Eggplant Stew. The Casseroles and all interesting and you might like the Sausage and Leek Buffet Casserole or the Spice Breakfast Sausage and Cheese Bake. A Strata is a layered casserole (hence the name) and are perfect for those times you want to make something ahead of time, store it in the fridge and simply warm it when you get home from Church or some other event. All look wonderful to me. How about the Pork, Pea, and Noodle Strata? Or the Slab Bacon and Mushroom Strata, or the version with sausage and mixed veggies?

We then arrive at Chops, Cutlets, and Steaks! What meat loving red blooded American wouldn't want to try each and every dish here? How about the Baked Double Pork Chops stuffed with Oysters? Sounds like heaven to me. Or the Creole Pork Steaks? Can you get more Southern than Broiled Pork Chops with Peachy Cheese Crust? Or Mississippi Smothered Pork Cutlets. Have fun!

The next section provides a tour of Pies, Loaves, Hashes, and Burgers. Again, all pork based. Old Fashioned Pork Pie with a Biscuit Crust, Barbecued Pork and Sausage Meatloaf, Natchitoches Pork Pie, and an Open Face Pig and Pimento Burger are just the highlights.

Villas devotes a whole section to 19 recipes for Pork Roasts. Some are with loin, some are with tenderloins, or pork shoulder or Butt, and one is for a Roasted Quail with Salt Pork and Country Ham. But there is a whole section with 19 recipes devoted to Hams, as well. Well, one is for Ham Hock Seasoning Liquid that you use with other things, but it is still part of the ham and it is a recipe even if it isn't a dish. You get recipes for dealing with a fresh ham and a recipe for a basic cooked country ham. But most of the recipes are for use prepared hams or portions of them. Why would you not want to braise a country ham in cider and molasses? Sounds like heaven to me.

Most of us most of our pork products as sausage and bacon. Villas encourages us to get our own grinder and make our own high quality sausage because it tastes so much better and is the key to superb sausage dishes. He provides and easy and solid recipes for Bulk Pork Sausage, Savannah Spiced Country Sausage, Cajun Boudin Rice Sausage, Creole Chaurice and much much more. You might want to go right to the Mississippi Bacon Spaghetti, though.
And of course, where would we be without Barbecue and Ribs. Villas begins with two sauce and two rub recipes and then takes us through both kinds of North Carolina `Cue, many kinds of ribs, chops, and loin recipes as well as kabobs and a recipe for Barbecue Bourbon Ham Steaks. The section on Variety and Specialty Meats deals with various kinds of pickled pork, preserved ham, deviled liver, puddings, scrapple, even feet, brains, sweetbreads, and ears.

Dishes with Vegetables and Rice are good down home basic fare and includes a Perloo and a Bog recipe. Both are similar to the jambalaya, but the Perloo is drier and the Bog is wetter than the traditional jambalaya.

The book concludes with a collection of bread recipes that include cornbread, hoecakes, corn pone, hush puppies, spoon bread, biscuits of various kinds, rolls, actual loaves of bread incorporating pork and other products.

What a wonderful journey Villas takes us on and shows it to us in such a delightfully personal way. Give the guy another James Beard Award!

Reviewed by Craig Matteson, Saline, MI

10 of 11 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Who Knew How Much You Can Do With One Little Piggy!, June 7, 2010

By 

Lynne Whiteley Novy (North Carolina, USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Pig: King of the Southern Table (Hardcover)

Imaginative . . . easy . . . economical. That's what everyone wants in a recipe these days and that's exactly what James Villas gives us in PIG: KING OF THE SOUTHERN TABLE. With recipes like five-ingredient Crisp Potato Skins with Cheese and Bacon, six-ingredient Baked Pork Butt with Home-Style Pan Gravy, eight-ingredient Churchyard Honey-Barbecued Pork Loin, and too many other mouth-watering less-than-10-ingredient recipes to count, I nominate PIG for KING OF THE AMERICAN TABLE.