Customer Reviews

Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey

5 star:		(16)
4 star:		(9)
3 star:		(7)
2 star:		(1)
1 star:		(1)

 

 

For readers expecting the champ to keep pace with the ever-increasing quality of surf literature, you are in for a disappointment. The only conclusion I can come to is that this was written for pre-teens. I believe even they would be left wanting more. I felt as if I was reading a chronological timeline of surf contest results while sprinkled in were tidbits of interesting relational, or situational, anecdotes that were never developed or cut short. This man's story could have gone into so many interesting directions but one direction was never made clear. So why the three stars anyway? Because he has given us the first roughly hewn look into some personal experiences that shaped him.
All the raw paragraphs did expose the champ as someone less enviable, maybe a little less balanced out of the water, but with one internal drive: his competitive nature. Between these pages are the things he cares about most. We are witness to a man in development and someone still searching. This biography leaves the reader feeling they have received an unedited glimpse into Mr. Slater's life. An interesting segway that needs to be explored further is the story of the changing of the guard. I know that Kelly Slater was at the heart of a revolution in the way competitors viewed each other, as friends, as fellow artist and musicians, and as renaissance men. This revolution changed the face of surfing forever. I know because I have seen the difference in surf literature and films and in the water. Mr. Slater, thanks for the effort, but you still have more to offer us, in and out of the water.

I really enjoyed this book. The basic story of Slater's life is interesting, but his honesty about his feelings is what I enjoyed most. It's easy to think that guys who tackle huge waves never know a timid moment in their lives, but Slater's comments about his feeling timid against big surf, and feeling timid on dry land in the form of having a shy personality when he was a kid, were reassuring to someone like me who certainly has felt fear in the water and was a shy kid, too. (Slater was voted "best looking" at his high school, so in a way his shyness didn't MATTER, since girls came after HIM. I wish I'd lost my virginity as young as he did! But nonetheless, his honesty about his feelings are endearing and interesting.) And if you're a surf nut, just reading his take on approaches to surfing, his experiences with different breaks, and his evolvement as a surfer are interesting. Sometimes it feels like THE MATRIX where Neo/Slater blows it a lot during the learning process, but it's those mistakes that make for a rapid learning curve. P.S. Aug. 2, I had Kelly sign the book yesterday at the U.S. Open in Huntington Beach, after he introduced Tom Curren at the ceremony where Curren impressed his feet and hands in cement. I told Kelly I'd finished the book and liked it, and he said, "Thanks a lot," but seemed maybe a little disbelieving, since the book had only been published a couple days before. But I did read it in only a couple days...because it's a good read.

...and ours is Kelly Slater.

In this Biography, the reader is given a glimpse of the life of one of the worlds most unique and impressive individuals in and out of the water. From his formative years growing up in the pre-condo housing boom of Cocoa Beach to the home of friend and renaissance man Jack Johnson on the North Shore. We are delved into the competive psyche of what drives this six time world Champion.

What made this book stand out, was that Kelly unabashadley opens himself up to the reader. Discussing his family issues with his mother and father. As well as personal relationship issues with friends and girlfriends. Add this to his vivid insight on his feelings and descriptions of various tournaments and surf spots around the world and you have a book that truly encompasses the world of Kelly Slater.

As a novice surfer, and an obsessive one, I am in awe of people like Kelly Slater, and only wish I had grown up close to waves so maybe I could be a quarter of what he has become.
This book was really easy and interesting to read, and the only problem I have with it is that he didn't really touch on how surfing FELT.
I wanted to know...how did it feel, the first time he caught a wave? What is it really like to ride places like Pipe for the first time, or any time, other than scary? What is it like to be inside a barrel...etc etc.
I learned a lot about his competitive nature and his triumphs and shortcomings. The great parts of this book is when he is sharing feelings, not ratings.

Hurricane Bertha is kicking up swell in the middle of the Atlantic. It's already dark and I've just come back from watching about 40 surfers catch waves down at Sebastian inlet. I watched them all finish up their set and catch a final wave while they could still see the bodies of other surfers bobbing in front of them. As I walked back to the parking area along the top of the jetty I looked back into the surf and could barely make out one last guy in the water waiting for his last wave. Since there was only one guy left I fancied that it was Kelly Slater, trying to catch one more before going in. I would like to meet Kelly Slater, the man, the champion, the surfing legend. I just finished reading Pipe Dreams--a Surfer's Journey, a little late since it was published in 2003. Co-written by Slater and Jason Borte a surfer/writer/teacher from Virginia Beach, VA, it's a nice book, with quaint stories about Kelly's journey from grommet to manhood to world champion -- 6 times (the book stopped before his world title career continued). Unfortunately it does not read like the life of a world champion -- it is not a world class biography. It reads more like like it was written for his fan club -- with short anecdotal accounts of his formative years followed by even shorter accounts of the many repetitive competitions required to capture six world tour victories. Since Slater is in the upper stratosphere when it comes to his craft -- where only world class talent belongs -- his book should also have world class appeal -- sadly it does not. I lay the blame at the feet of his co-author and perhaps his editor. I don't know much about surfing, and I probably know even less about surfing after reading Pipe Dreams. This is a shame. Slater hints of a second book where he details some secrets to surfing. This would probably be a better story. That's not to say Slater's story shouldn't have world class appeal -- it has too -- the story just isn't told in this book. Kelly Slater is now an eight-time world champion -- that puts him in extremely rare company, dare I say Lance Armstrong. What you can barely glean from the narrative is that Kelly Slater is a deep introspective person -- hugely complex and sophisticated in his thoughts -- this is readily apparent in his life story yet you do not get this directly from the pages, you must read between the lines and theorize that there is way more to what we are being told -- I hope there is, otherwise Slater has lived a very shallow life. Perhaps a surfer's journey is shallow -- but I doubt it. This book is a must read for all surfers, young and old and at heart, so they can say they've read Slater's book, but it is no better than the the worst written TV shows or movies about surfers it criticizes. When a world class athlete decides to write a book, they have to go with world class help -- please Kelly -- for the sake of your fan's and for the sake of your profession, get some help with the next one. I'll be waiting for that wave. This one gets three stars because I finished it without too much trouble and the awesome cover jacket (which ironically is world class).

In all honesty, I didn't expect to enjoy this book. After all--what do I, a gal scientist, have in common with a surf legend who trumps his peers to float somewhere up there with Kwan, Woods, and Jordan?

Instead, I found myself unable to put it down. Well written and wonderfully candid, it promised everything that goes into a unforgettable biography--and then some.

Slater imbues his writing with gut-wrenching, broad-appeal emotion--a notable accomplishment in crafting a story around a sport and way of life not accessible to most of the world. By the end, I felt like I could play a round of golf or have a beer with Slater and relate to him on a level that surpasses lines of class and celebrity--one that is simply, human.

My only complaint? I would've liked captions for the photos.

I hated to say goodbye at the end. That should say it all.

I remember as a grommet and my idols were Tom Curren and I liked the style of Martin Potter but there was a guy, my age who was really kicking butt in surfing in the amateurs, named Kelly Slater. I remember during a surf comp in France, he was against his idol, Tom Curren and Slater won. There was a lot of talk about him but you knew inside this kid from Cocoa Beach was going somewhere. He is multi-talented but during his interviews...print or on television, you kind of see something through his eyes. Stoke when he wins a comp. But I don't know...you sensed somethings at times that you wonder how life is going for Kelly Slater. "Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey" was so captivating that I couldn't even put the book down. This book is not a how-to-surf book. It's about the life of Kelly Slater and he talks about personal things that occured in his life that I must say...it takes a lot of courage and probably is therapeutic in a way to get everything out into the open for him. From his childhood, his father leaving his family and getting involved with alcoholism, insight on competitions and what was on his mind and how he actually gets pissed off (which I really couldn't imagine because he seems always calm) if he's losing a match. He also talks about his relationships with Bree (if you read any of the surf mags...you always saw a photo of them together) and the problems with that relationship as well as with Pamela Anderson and others. Also, the "Baywatch" situation and how Kelly and his co-star David Charvet got into a fight because Kelly didn't like being on the show and that was interesting. How he amassed a lot of money early on in his surfing career and then blew it all and it took a hard realization to manage it. Also, about that French stalker woman and how he almost got jumped by several guys. How he wanted to be like Tom and leave his sponsor to be soul surfer. His reunion with his father and him being a father which he kept secret from the public for two years and so much in this book that you start to learn more about Kelly Slater. Like many sports icons, you tend to see the good things. With Slater, I thought...champion, dates fine women, on the cool magazines and in the spotlight....what a life? But when you read the book, you realize that Slater really never asked to be a star, he just wanted to surf and the things that went on with his life, like most celebrities or sports icons, they can manifest to something negative but he was able to stay right in between, he never goes into a ....I'm doing so well with my life but that he made some f-up's along the way and he's making sure that he doesn't do again (or try to anyway) and continues to improve himself and try to make better decisions after learning from difficult and heartbreaking decisions. After reading this book, I respect him so much more. This book is absolutely wonderful!

I have surfed for years and watched many of the pros come and go, but Kelly is definitely different. His story is one that other sports can only fabricate for their stars. This book is written at a level where anyone can enjoy it, a hard task these days. I would recommend it to everyone, especially parents who have an aspiring grommet.

I have been a fan of Kelly's since my college roommate from San Diego put a poster of him on her wall in 1991. Since then I have tried to follow his career in whatever way I could. Reading this book I realized that I had such a small and superficial view of him as that cute surfer who, by the way, is also a wold champion. However, now I see not only how he has struggled in and out of the water but how much he has impacted the sport of surfing and helped shape it for the future. I also love the way he talks about his friendships. It is written in such a conversational manner that you almost forget that you are reading a book. Reganbooks has scored another winner in "Pipe Dreams". I am a librarian in NYC now and I want to go out and hand this to kids and tell them to read it.

Originally I thought of Kelly Slater as the thought as the "quiet genius" type from seeing and hearing him in surf movies.

It is good to hear about his thoughts, but he seems, sometimes,
quiet shallow, insecure and almost juvenile. It is shame how easily he dismisses his friendships,family (especially his daughter!)and relationships because of competition and fame.
It doesnt sound like he has ever has a real relationship in his life. (I read Occys book and he is the similar but much more
childish)

Why would a guy with all the talent in the world get so hung up on a media puppet like Pamela Anderson (besides the obvious endowments)

All in all still a great story of the greatest surfer ever, he just needs to grow up.