Famed poker theorist David Sklansky wrote a short book entitled "Sklansky on Razz" that was published in 1983. It is now out of print, although I understand it has been incorporated into "Sklansky on Poker" Second Edition, 1994. Aside from that book Mitchell Cogert's "Play Razz Poker to Win" (2008) is the only book ever published devoted exclusively to the game of razz.
This is not surprising since there are not that many people who play razz. However razz is the "R" component in "HORSE" (Hold'em, Omaha hilo, Razz, seven card Stud, stud Eight or better) which is the most prestigious poker competition at the annual World Series of Poker, a tournament that all the top poker pros would love to win because the winner can lay claim to being the best all-around poker player. Incidentally last year it cost $50,000 just to enter that tournament.
Having watched a bit of the WSOP competition on TV, and witnessed some curious play, I can say that even the top pros could use a little guidance in razz. Whether this book and Mr. Cogert can provide that guidance is the question. Cogert himself, while not a top pro, is an accomplished poker player who has placed in a number of tournaments and even won one, the Northern California Championship for no-limit hold'em in 2002. His book, while a bit on the thin side, offers a practical approach to the game which should be of value to most players. Whether it will be required reading for the entrants in this year's WSOP competition is unclear. I can assure you, however, that it will be discussed!
Probably the most interesting and debatable aspect of Cogert's guidance is his point count system for starting hands on third street. (p. 24) I have never seen a point count system for poker that is any more than a rough guide; yet even a rough guide is valuable as a learning device. Cogert's system is relatively sophisticated in that he not only gives points for the various three-card starting hands, he adds and subtracts points based on position, up cards, and whether the pot has been called or raised. The only problem with this (aside from whether his grasp of values is correct or not) is that it may take a while to memorize and implement the system.
Cogert gives tips on when to steal and when not to, how to play on the various streets with examples from his play at the $5 and $10 level on the Internet. He includes an index on some fifth street simulations, e.g., a made 9-6 low versus a 6-5 draw, etc., giving the winning percentages for each hand.
I am not going to presume to evaluate or second guess Cogert's recommendations on how to play since my experience at razz is modest. However I do want to question one bit of advice on a situation that comes up again and again in razz. You bring it in with 7-9 in the hole with a jack showing. Two players call, one with a 6 and the other with an 8. On fourth street, both players hit queens and you catch a 5. Cogert says not to bet "since your opponents will not fold. Wait to see what happens on fifth street." (p. 21)
What is curious about this bit of advice is that you have the best hand! Personally I would not want to let them draw for free. However--and this is one of the peculiarities of razz--even though you know you have the best hand, if you catch bad on fifth street and one or both of your opponents catches good, you are in trouble. A similar situation arises when you catch a king to go with your three-card 7- low on fourth street while your lone opponent pairs his door seven. Again you are in the lead, and again Cogert advises you to wait until fifth street to bet. He remarks, "if he hits good on fifth street and you hit bad, you have wasted a bet." (p. 37) If this happens you will have to fold since your opponent will have a one-card draw to a made hand while you will have a two-card draw to a similar hand with two cards to go.
However if you hit good and he hits bad, you have probably gained a bet! Furthermore, I must emphasize that in both examples, you are ahead. Consequently, over the long run as the cards that fall even out, you will gain by betting. And as a practical matter, the player that gives free cards, even supposing that mathematically he is not hurting himself, is easier to play against than the player who makes you pay. Psychologically, if people know you are going to make them pay the max on every card, they are going to avoid playing against you in marginal situations, which will mean better results for you.
Bottom line: if you play razz or HORSE this is definitely a book you will want to read if only for the reason that some of your opponents will be reading it. (And that goes for you, Phil Hellmuth!)