A look back at the beginnings of the American culinary revolution can be instructive--and, sometimes, amazing. Sontheim-er, inventor of the food processor and credited as one of the leaders of our awakening gastronomic awareness, culls the best 250 recipes from more than 10 years of
The Pleasures of Cooking magazine. Many of these fruit and vegetable dishes are from the kitchens of now well-known chefs and culinarians, from the late James Beard to San Francisco Chinese cuisine specialist Barbara Tropp. With a handful of recipes for each of 34 vegetable and 24 fruit varieties, every section includes a paragraph or two about care and feeding and specific cooking tips. Then, the reminiscences begin, whether it's Beard's chicken with 40 cloves of garlic or Abby Mandel's kiwi fruit souffle. Any concern about fat and cholesterol goes in the garbage; nutritional analyses, so critical to today's cookbooks, are nonexistent as is the use of packaged ingredients (one recipe advocates making dumpling skins from scratch!) and of low-cal substitutes.
Barbara Jacobs