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25 of 27 people found the following review helpful
on August 8, 2012
I purchased this lock because the bed of my truck was broken in to. I have a fiberglass cap with locking doors. The doors were all locked, but someone was able to break in by forcing the tailgate down from under the rear door of the cap. I purchased this to make that no longer possible. After the initial installation, I found that it took no more force to pry the tailgate open with the lock engaged then it did to force the tailgate open from under the cap. The mechanism mounts to the tailgate with ONE bolt! The mechanism simply rotated when forced. There is not a competing product on the market, so I had to modify this in order to get it to work.
I did call Pop&Lock for support. At first they seemed very helpful. They had me take pictures of the installation and send them to them. But then I never heard back from them. I called them back 2 or 3 more times and never got a call back!
I ended up adding an additional support using a piece of strapping from the opposite handle mount and attaching to the end of the plate that the solenoid is attached to. I also had to grid down the end of the latch to allow proper clearance for the handle to unlock.
I am now happy with the end result, but the customer service was horrible and the design is flawed. How does using one mount prevent rotation?
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15 of 16 people found the following review helpful
on August 11, 2013
(WARNING- This is a long review for people who are paranoid when it comes to disassembling their vehicles - like I am!)

I got this tailgate lock after the excitement of buying my new Tacoma and realizing AFTER the purchase that it didn't have a tailgate lock. Even if it's one with a key, I don't care. People steal tailgates (I live in a high vehicle theft area). I thought "well, maybe Toyota knows something I don't...maybe tailgate theft is on the decline..." so I did a little research. WRONG! Tailgate theft is ON THE RISE (especially as of the writing of this review). The fact that this tailgate has a backup camera would make it rather expensive to replace - and, as good a driver as I am, I cannot back my truck up without that camera, so a tailgate theft would be a personal disaster.

After reading the reviews and thinking about how it would look on the outside (versus the other types of tailgate locks), how effective it would be, etc. I decided on this one. I am NOT mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles. I am gifted in many ways, but I know when I'm out of my league and it's time to call a professional. Fortunately, I'm connected, so I asked a friend who is a mechanic if he would install it if I bought it - he said yes. I sent him the file of the directions from the Pop n Lock website and he said it looked easy. Then...he suddenly became unavailable. I looked up local truck places (closed on Saturdays). I called my salesman at the Toyota dealership (a really great guy - not just trying to make a sale) and he said Toyota would do it but he would work on getting me someone cheaper. Didn't hear back from him either. As luck would have it, I mentioned my dilemma to (are you sitting down?) - my MASSAGE THERAPIST who said, "I do stuff on my Jeep all the time, how hard can it be?" This thing bills itself as "installs in minutes" after all (and you're right, the trick is it doesn't say HOW MANY minutes - a year is only 525,600 minutes right?). But I will say it took us (mainly HIM) about 2½ hours to get it done from start to finish.

I was more than apprehensive - this guy is NOT a mechanic by trade, I love my truck, and the thought of ripping it apart to put this lock in was causing me heart palpitations. But, it's late in summer, I'm a teacher, and school starts soon - it's now or never...so I pretended to be calm and we proceeded.

After reading through the 10-step directions (yes, that's all there are - TEN STEPS) we started crawling under the truck to identify the various places we would need to access in order to install the lock. My message therapist/mechanic located the areas almost immediately. The next challenge was finding the right T-30 Torx driver bit for my drill. We discovered that a T-27 worked just fine - so we decided to hold our collective breath and start.

The directions are fairly accurate - it would be helpful for the diagram to show which way you're looking at the gate (like labeling the top or bottom of the gate) but we got that one figured out without much trouble. I was also initially panicked that there was no "mounting screw" in the package as shown in the "layout" diagram - do not panic, the mounting screw is already in the tailgate mechanism itself. Just remove it and then replace it to hold the unit in place according to the directions - we were even able to do it by skipping the "release the driver's side rod" part of the directions. I was also pretty surprised at how quickly and easily the inside of my tailgate came off (no wonder thieves can remove your gate in 30 seconds - completely dismantling it took about 60) - HELPFUL HINT - there is a little protrusion on the inside gate liner that snaps into a hole in the metal on the tailgate (2013 model). It is right in the center, if you're aware of it ahead of time, you won't have to be concerned when the piece doesn't come right out.

One reviewer mentioned that his didn't have the foam piece mounted to the unit to keep it from rattling. If this happened to you, return it or if you have some heavy black foam laying around, glue it to the unit on the side that will face the metal part of the gate. I can't imagine this unit rattling around in there every time you opened or closed the gate or hit a bump. Also one reviewer complained that one screw didn't seem adequate to hold it in the mounting. I think it will be just fine.

Now for the biggest complaint...the directions nonchalantly say "Feed the round bullet connectors on the end of the short wiring cable into a drain hole at the bottom of the tailgate..." Here's the deal: those "bullet connectors" are just a tad bit thick for the rectangular drain holes. Learn from my mistake - DO NOT attempt to pry the drain hole to make it slightly wider. We did this (carefully) and still managed to put a tiny outward dent into the bottom of my tailgate (only I can see it - but I'm a perfectionist and it will probably bug me 'til the day I no longer have the truck). You can force those suckers through - but it takes a screw driver and a heck of a lot of patience. I nearly cut them off and then re-attached them after feeding them through, but thought that may compromise the integrity of the lock operation. If you have a small grinding bit, be prepared to grind out a small part of the drainage hole so these things will fit through more easily. (incidentally, it is this part that caused me to withhold one star on my review - had that not happened, it would be a definite five-star). Also, it says to pick "a" drain hole. Logic would dictate picking the one directly under the unit, but ya never know. If you DON'T pick the one in the center, you're going to have some cable dangling under your gate. If you choose the CENTER drain hole, there is a nice big square hole in the bed liner for you to feed the wiring through.

The rest of the installation pretty much went as planned; however, the connecting ends of the wires have large flat ends. There is NO WAY you're going to fit those through the grommet under the truck as suggested. We had to cut them off. This was fine because the connections to the truck's wires are made with wire crimps anyway, but the "tools needed" should say you need a wire cutter and stripper along with some electrical tape.

Also, there is a tiny spring on the unit (still not completely sure of its purpose) which had come loose during installation. We noticed that sometimes (not every time) when we clicked the lock open, the locking bar didn't quite clear the gate mechanism. We reattached the spring and messed with it but noticed it didn't do much good. I suggested that gravity would handle the problem when the gate was up - which it does for the most part. While it may not go completely past the latch mechanism every time, the end of the latch mechanism is curved, so it is able to slide past the bar on the power lock and open the tailgate without any trouble.

I have tried the lock with the button on the door, with the key fob, and by inserting the key into the keyhole lock on the drivers door. All three methods successfully lock and unlock the gate along with the door. Hopefully this will be a good product as I continue to use it. I see many reviewers decided to ignore the driver door hook-up and do the passenger door instead to save wear on the unit. Since I usually unlock and lock all of my doors anyway (I usually have stuff to load and unload from the back seat) I stuck with the driver's door installation as in the instructions. However, I'm hoping it continues to function. I did have an experience with a previous vehicle where an actuator failed in the driver's door. Once that happens, there's no gettin' 'round it - not with the fob, not with "touch entry" (that car had a button on the handle if you had the key in your pocket), not with the key, not with the lock/unlock button inside the door, and not even by manually locking or unlocking the door from inside - I had to crawl over the center console from the passenger side. So I am HOPING this type of failure never happens with this lock (permanently locking my gate).

If you're apprehensive about this purchase as I was (I kept looking at it for a WEEK on Amazon before making the decision to move forward with the buy), don't be. If you're a good do-it-yourself mechanic, certainly don't worry. If you're not but have a friend who sort of knows what's up, you'll be fine. By the time we tore the inside of the truck gate apart, I was fine and feeling a lot more confident about the install. Others have said the lock is "too loud" - well - the tailgate is metal, the unit is sturdy steel, and it's hollow inside your gate - how quiet would you expect it to be? I like hearing it - let's me know it's working!
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12 of 13 people found the following review helpful
on June 23, 2011
I put it on a 2011 Tacoma w/backup cam. Was EZ as pie.

I installed it on the passenger side so it doesn't unlock very time just when I hit the remote twice.

Like a glove
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10 of 11 people found the following review helpful
on May 31, 2012
Installation was a breeze. I followed directions I found on a Tacoma Forum which explained how to install it on the passenger side which changed the unlocking operations to better suit my needs. If you install it on the passenger side, you have to press the unlock button on your key fob twice to get it to unlock the tailgate just as if you wanted to unlock the rest of the doors on the cab. I chose this option because it minimizes the number of lock/unlock cycles the Pop & Lock has to go through unnecessarily (reduced wear and tear).

The lock/unlock operation is a bit loud since the tailgate isn't insulated. You can definitely here it working when you are outside the truck but you get used to it quickly and at least you will know if it ever goes out.

My only concern is that the unit is only secured to the tailgate by one bolt. I think that over time it may loosen so I added some blue thread lock to help keep it in place. Also, the unit will rattle when it is unlocked and you close the tailgate. I examined it to see if I could put some dynomat or something to lessen the vibration but its just the way it is designed. The rattling is actually not from the unit itself but form the sound resonating in the aluminum tailgate. Not much you can do...

All-in-all, I love it. It works great and provides a secure environment when using a tailgate cover (I'm using the BakFlip F1).

Great buy
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11 of 13 people found the following review helpful
on April 13, 2012
It's unfortunate that Toyota did not add a locking tailgate to any year/generation of the Tacoma. Luckily we have the Pop & Lock. I had some trouble with the install because the wiring can be a bit intimidating and confusing. After some research on a couple forums and some help from a fellow member at TW I was able to successfully install it. Once you know which wires to tap into it is very easy to install. Here's a link to how I installed it [...]. I installed mine on the passenger side lock and unlock wires so the tailgate doesn't unlock with one push of the key fob, but unlocks when you push the key fob twice along with the other doors on my truck.
review image
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5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
on July 15, 2012
I first saw this item while surfing the tacoma world forums. Apparently there are a bunch of people getting the tailgate stolen. I just purchased a 2012 tacoma and figured this would be nice. I routed the wires to the passenger side so it only unlocks with a double push on the key fob. I was also able to integrate the wires with the existing backup camera wires rather that drilling a new hole in the tailgate. It took some time to unwrap the camera wires, add in the lock wires and then wrap everything back together but I think it was worth it.
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6 of 7 people found the following review helpful
on November 14, 2011
The instructions are a bit vague, but there are online forums where owners really break down the installation process. I've never installed anything in my car before, and have no experience whatsoever with this sort of installation... and yet I had no problems at all installing this into my 2012 Tacoma.

Works perfectly!

Installation took about an hour, because I was very particular and meticulous about hiding/zip tying the wires beneath the truck.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
on October 14, 2013
I have a 2014 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 V6 Access Cab with the TRD Off Road package which includes the backup camera in the tailgate handle. This work great. There is a but however. They do not advise or include a lock washer or blue loctite. However there is only one mounting point, which is fine because when tight it braces itself on the sheet metal and the handle itself so more than 1 mount point are not needed. If you do not loctite it or use a lockwasher I can definitely see this working its way lose and becoming ineffective. I used a M6 split lock washer from the local hardware store for that bolt and tightened it down pretty good (be careful though as it is going to a plastic tailgate handle).

I am slightly OCD so it took me about an hour and a half, however I could see it taking a regular person less than a half hour. You undo the tailgate bolts, pull the cover off, install the device, then run cables. I ran my cables through the camera wiring harness hole in the tailgate then body of the truck and then wire tied it to that harness until I got underneath the passenger seat. If you are under the truck looking at the passenger side frame rail on the side of the frame rail towards the outside of the rail you will see a gromit with nothing in it. I pulled it off and put a hole in it and ran my cable through that, then ran it up to where the wiring harness that goes to the passenger side door is and used the blue with red stripe and blue with black stripe wires. I had the wrong polarity after tapping it so I swapped the pins in the back.

Works like a champ however it is loud. I think thats reassuring though, so I don't care.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
on December 11, 2013
I installed this product on my 2013 Toyota Tacoma Limited over the weekend. This product works great and even though it is loud during function, it does exactly what it says it's supposed to do. Here are some words of wisdom. Make sure you get some line insulation like the flexible plastic cover you encase the electric line in and then tape the ends in order limit exposure from the elements. Secondly, the wire ends don't fit through the drainage holes so make sure you have a shorter drill and also some rubber grommets for your new hole. Lastly, I watched several Youtube videos on insulation. My word of wisdom is to break the firewall through the rubber seal directly below the driver seat and tie your line to the wires on the rear of the middle panel that the seat belt ties to. My tailgate operates with a double unlock now just like the passenger doors. Finally, DON'T over tighten because I snapped the M4 bolt that secures the mechanism and the tailgate handle forcing me to drill out the bolt and go out and get a new one. Total installation time for me was just under three hours...most because I double and triple checked everything I was doing with internet resources.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
on June 9, 2014
I just installed this lock. It seems to work well but it needed some modification.

As I had read in another review, someone said the spring on the sliding latch broke. What actually happens is that it loosely fits into the holes on both sides and flops around. It worked for a few cycles and then the spring pops out and the slider won't be held closed. I fixed this by making small hooks with the spring ends that fit into the holes. The hooks secure the spring in place but take a bit of effort to get them into the holes (since they are now bent and not straight). It has been working just fine now. I later thought that an easier fix might be to just remove the spring and stretch it sideways to expand the loops so that the spring would fit tightly within the space and wouldn't jiggle loose.

I noticed that earlier gripes about rattling have been addressed by the manufacturer adding a black sponge block with a ziptie--people were using a kitchen sponge. They also well-lubed the slider which addresses potential sticking issues. Hopefully they will modify the spring quickly since it's really a big problem and easily fixed.

One other thing: when I mounted the unit with the single bolt it works ok but I found that tightening it securely resulted in the tailgate handle sticking. Apparently the plastic handle assembly warps a bit and won't move freely. I used plenty of LockTight on the bolt and tightened it just enough so that the handle wouldn't bind.

I have the double cab. Definitely run the cable on the passenger side to the center pillar and connect it the the wires there. A few inches away on the floor is a rubber grommet that is perfect to pass the wire through water tight and right over to the pillar. Just drill a small hole (maybe 1/8") and then poke it through. There is a wire harness that runs up near the frame from the tailgate to the front; it is perfect to ziptie the wire to keeping it safe and secure.
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