Customer Reviews

Porter-Cable 7518 Speedmatic 15 Amp 3-1/4 HP Fixed Base 5-Speed Router

5 star:		(60)
4 star:		(13)
3 star:		(4)
2 star:		(3)
1 star:		(2)

 

 

According to Pat Warner, this router was specifically designed for use in a table. I've had one for about 3 years now, and I can't really fault it. I've never used it handheld; I have other routers for that. The soft-start is really much easier on the nerves. The adjustment mechanism - when it's clean - is fast and precise, but it does have a problem with sawdust clogging it. I was in the habit of changing bits while the motor was still mounted, but I developed the habit of taking it out to change bits and cleaning the threads on the base before remounting it. The problem of the cord I solved by shortening it to about six inches long and using an extension cord. The best was to do that is to shorten it at the motor end rather than the plug end. The motor is powerful enough to drive a horizontal panel-raising bit at full depth without hesitation. Operator hesitation is another matter though! As per PC practice, the buyer gets two separate collets, one for 1/4" shanks and the other for 1/2". The collet is tightened by using two wrenches (supplied) which is more reliable - if more awkward - than the shaft lock used on other makes.

I use my Porter Cable 7518 mounted under a table. The speed control is essential, especially when using large bits. The soft start and relatively quiet operation are big bonuses. The only problem that I have is adjusting the height: This requires the motor to be rotated which can cause dust that is accumulated on top of the motor to become lodged in the threads that adjust the height, causing the mechanism to jam. Once in a while I have to unmount the router, remove the base and thoroughly clean. Otherwise it easily beats other routers I've used.

I was very surprised to see the 7518 getting anything but 5-star reviews. I have had mine for five years and had nothing but marvelous experiences with it. It has more power than you're ever going to need, has a soft start that's a very nice feature, variable speeds which come in handy at times, and it's pretty much bullet-proof. What's not to like?

I learned the bulk of my woodworking at Palomar College, which is where I was introduced to Porter-Cable routers. We were taught to always unscrew the base when we changed bits, so it's natural for me to do it that way. Their main workhorse is the Porter-Cable 690, and anything that will stand up to the kind of abuse that 150 students per day can dish out... I first purchased the 690 because of that, and when I made the ultimate router table in the Jigs and Fixture class, I graduated to the 7518.

Because of the weight (18 pounds), I have never left the motor in the router table, as some of my fellow students found that doing so tended to deflect the insert plate over time. I do leave the base attached at all times, but when I'm finished with the router table, I unscrew the motor, blow out all the sawdust from both motor and base, then store the motor in a cabinet. There are no scratches on the motor, and it has always been very easy to adjust the depth of the bit. I think those who are having problems with sawdust gumming things up over time could resolve this by simply taking off the motor and blowing out the sawdust when they're finished using it.

Changing bits has never been a problem because of the procedure I was taught at Palomar. I merely lift the insert plate with attached router out of the router table, unscrew the base and change bits. Pretty simple, really.

I have mostly used the 7518 in my router table, but there have been a few times when I've needed it for hand-held operations. The only drawback then is the weight, but all that power comes at a cost, I suppose. Actually, the much-maligned (and deservedly so) Sears router does pretty well for edge routing because of the light weight and those big handles.

After LOTS of use I can honestly say the 7518 looks like it's brand new. I firmly believe that I will be doing woodworking for the next thirty or forty years, and I have every confidence that my original Porter-Cable routers will still be in use, having, at the very most, had the brushes replaced.

It's a superb router. Buy it with confidence.

I've had the 7518 about 3months now. It is dedicated to the routertable w/4" dust port (lots of air movement). Few things no one mentions regarding this router is it gets hot (told that is normal), this heat transfers through to the handles sometimes making it difficult to handle. I use an aluminum router plate with it and the heat transfers through it. The speed fluctuates dramatically in 10kRPM range and mine even stalled a couple times after starting the cut. Sawdust from routing MDF will get inside the motor and the speed module and slider switch. This makes it harder for the router to maintain proper speed. This same dust getting into the slider switch also causes the soft-start feature to fail and the router at times will not turn on (can take up to 45-seconds to start). Removing the cover and blowing the switch out with a air hose corrects these problems but it is something I wouldn't expect to see on a production router. It is the best I've found for the router table, but PC really needs to work on that slider switch and speed module before this router would get 5 stars from this owner.

The Porter-Cable 7518 and 7519 (it's fixed-speed cousin) are solid routers, but you should consider their advantages and drawbacks carefully before you buy.

Handheld, they are beasts, but that's true of all 15A (15 Ampere) routers. They weigh about 13 pounds, and using them is almost like weight training. That may be what you need in a production environment, where you'll beat the router to heck, but it's overkill for a home shop. For handheld use a 12A handheld router is plenty. The primary application for a 15A router is panel raising with large bits, an operation that should never be performed hand-held. (The Ampere rating is an indication of the power the router can safely deliver on a continuous basis without burning out. It doesn't describe the power the router normally draws, just the peak power it's capable of. With smaller bits, you'll never need the kind of power that a 15A router can deliver.)

The chief reason most of us would buy one of these routers is to use it under a router table. In my opinion, the best way to do that is to mount the motor in a router lift device. This enables you to adjust the router height from above the table, without lifting the router and router plate out of the table top (They're heavy and the handles nearly fill the opening, making removal awkward!) or struggling to work under the table. I recommend a router lift that can raise the collet above the table top to simplify bit changes. My choice was the Jointech SmartLift Digital. The JessEm Mast-R-Lift also raises the collet above the table, but I've never used it.

Even in a router table, you need 15A only if you're routinely spinning bits larger than about 2", which are mostly horizontal panel-raisers. A 12A router is fine for most router table use. A 12A router won't last as long if you're using large bits, however.

I can't imagine why anyone but a production shop would buy the 7519. The single-speed feature may provide very slightly higher reliability but it greatly restricts the bits you can use. If you shop, there's no real difference in price between the two models. For almost everyone, the 7518 is the best choice.

Porter-Cable should be ashamed for their unwillingness expend any R&D on the 7518 and 7519. Nowadays, every router has a self-extracting collet, but these are the only routers I know that don't have a locking spindle and therefore require two wrenches for bit change. (PC's latest 2 1/4 horse router has an auto-locking collet, so how primitive is one that doesn't lock at all?) I'd also blast their cheapness for not including a 1/4" collet. The location of the power switch on top of the motor housing can be awkward, since you have to remove one hand from the handles to cycle power.

When using the supplied base, the adjustment mechanism requires turning the aluminum-encased motor housing inside a huge aluminum screw in the base. (Few engineers would design with aluminum sliding on aluminum, particularly when the surfaces can't be lubricated.) Operation is rough and awkward, particularly under a router table. There's nothing to keep dust out of the adjustment mechanism, so the aluminum screw can collect grit, and under extreme conditions can jam. A router lift circumvents all these problems.

In summary, I recommend that you consider the 7518 and 7519 only if you'll be mounting the motors in a router lift. If you don't want to spend the money on a router lift, consider one of the newer routers that has built-in above-table adjustment. 12A routers are now available from Milwaukee (Model 5616-20), Porter-Cable (model 894PK), Freud (model FT1700VCE), and others. The Triton TRC001 is a 15A router that is reputedly excellent for use under a router table, but I haven't used it.

If you want a single router for use in router table and hand-held, buy a multi-base kit to make it easy to switch functions. It is very time-consuming to convert a table-mounted router to handheld use when the router is screwed to the router plate.

THIS ROUTER IS GREAT FOR USING IN A TABLE - PLENTY OF POWER AND THE SPEED IS EXACT - WHEN LOADED, THE SPEED CONTROLLER INCREASES THE SPEED AND HOLDS IT CONSTANT - REGARDLESS OF LOAD - THE ONLY THING THAT I DON'T LIKE IS THAT THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT REQUIRES YOU TO ROTATE THE HEAD RATHER THAN THE BASE WHICH CAUSES THE POWER CORD TO TWIST - A MINOR PROBLEM - GREAT TOOL!

I've been using this router for about a year now. I bought it as dedicated router for a fancy "Norm Abrams" style router table. I have used it a fair amount, and am sorry to report that it has not held up well, despite the fact I've treated the tool with the utmost respect.

The main problem is with the height adjustment. There's a large "screw-thread" mechanism between the motor housing and the base that adjusts the bit height when the motor is rotated relative to the base. At the time I bought the router, other reviewers pointed out that as the motor heats up, the casing expands, making it difficult to adjust the bit height. There's also a tendency for dust to get lodged within the space when it's used upside down in a router table. This exacerbates the tendency for it to stick.

Once it starts to stick, the soft aluminum housing begins to get scored. Once that happens, it gets scored some more, which causes it to stick some more, and so on...At this point, I find it very difficult to adjust the bit height at all, and even more difficult to change bits while its mounted in the router table, since that requires the motor housing to be completely unscrewed from the base (unless I go through the tedious process of separating the router base from the router table)

I can state with conviction that since I was aware of the potential for this problem before I bought the router, I've treated it with great care. At the time I bought the tool I believed that with careful treatment and good sawdust hygiene, I would avoid the pitfalls the others had experienced. Time has proven me wrong however.

It's difficult to simply recommend against buying this router, since there are no other good choices for a great router table setup. In all other respects, it's an outstanding router. It's unbelievably smooth, and since it so heavy, it absorbs most of the bit vibration. This translates into an incredibly smooth, precise cut. And since it is immensely powerful, it's possible to take deep cuts. In practice, it operates like something between a router and a shaper. Simply wonderful!

So - would I buy it again for my router table setup? Probably not. And for these reasons: 1) Bit changes are a pain in the A. I'd look for something with a more convenient height adjustment mechanism, so that bits can be changed easily while its upside down in a router table. 2) The tendency for dust to collect between the housing and base is a real problem. Its just a design flaw. The router wasn't designed to work upside down. 3) The soft aluminum used for the housing is crap. I have an old PC router with the same height adjustment mechanism, but the housing is made of steel. After years and years of use, it still works OK. So why did PC switch to aluminum?

Good luck in making your decision.

I purchased this router for dedicated use in a router table, and it has become one of the most reliable tools in my shop. After trying out several other routers, I can say with confidence that this one will handle anything you can push through it.

OVERALL IMPRESSION:
I have used it for several heavy-duty projects over the past few months, routing all manner of wood species -- oak, maple, cherry, poplar, as well as several softwoods. Whether doing edge profiles, tongue-and-groove joints, tenons, or a variety of other applications, the motor just keeps cutting without any hesitation. And I've really put it to the test, giving it a workout in several projects, running it continuously for over a half hour at a time, pushing one 6-foot-long board after another through it. Then I'll turn it off, adjust the height, and run it again for another half hour of constant, heavy use. Sometimes I even take a cut that's a little deeper than I should, but nevertheless, the motor never bogs down.

SPECIFIC FEATURES:
The soft-start feature is very nice. When you flip the power switch, it takes a moment to ramp-up, then the motor reaches its full speed with an impressive sound. There is practically no vibration from the motor. The speed controls are very easy to read and easy to reach, and make it simple to adjust for the diameter of the router bit you're using. The height adjustment is easy and locks down securely -- once the router is set for the correct height, it doesn't move until you want it to. The wrenches that come with the router are solid tools used for loosening the collet. The router only comes with a 1/2" collett; if you want to use 1/4" bits, you'll have to buy an after-market 1/4" collett. The motor can be easily removed from the handles if necessary. The router was perfectly tuned when I bought it, with no runout at all, and it has stayed that way ever since, even after many many hours of heavy routing.

SUGGESTIONS:
This router is pretty loud. I would suggest wearing ear protection when running it, especially if you're going to run it for long periods of time.

The power switch on this router is in an inconvenient spot (like most routers). If you're running this router in a table, I suggest using a Billy Pedal, which allows you to turn the power on and off with your foot. This keeps your hands and face far from the router itself, and it allows you to cut the power in an emergency.

With a router this powerful, I would suggest you only use 1/2" bits. After buying this router, I slowly replaced all my 1/4" bits with 1/2" bits and I am much happier with them.

CONCLUSION:
If you're looking for a powerful, reliable router, you'd have a hard time finding something better than this.

I wanted a 3 1/4 horse router for a table mount. Needed a router with a large base for large bits (lock miter, rali & stile, etc.) Originally went with the Fein plunge, but I got a total lemon (never even made one cut).

Didn't like the weight of the PC 3.25hp plunge. Decided on this beast. It's a little heavy, but I find the weight a blessing when routing freehand. Maybe it's just me, but I find routing freehand more tiring with a lighter router (maybe those lighter ones are more suspect to moving from the force of the motor?)

Those handles are solid. Pick up the Hitachi 3.25 plunge (which is very highly recommended - look in the major magazines and see how many pros use that one) and you will see what I mean. The one trepidation I had after opening the box was the power switch is on the top of the unit. I thought "how am I going to hold this beast with one hand and turn the power on" (remember, the bit is sticking out the bottom). Well, I have to rate the soft start 6 stars out of a possible 5. Imagine holding 18 pounds in one hand at least one foot from your body and firing it up to 21,000 rpm. Needless to say, I haven't lost any fingers - not even a drop of blood.

Moving on to table routing - which is where I primarily use it. This workshop gem has never bogged down once. I have run oak and cherry on a rail & stile set in a single pass, just to test it against a Makita (both can do it, I don't recommend it because your risk of chip out increases).

I have found the height adjustment to be a breeze with their dial indicator (on THIS router - not the 1.75 hp). I have some cabinets in glue-up right this instant on which I had a boat load of dadoes to cut. Because of my lack of planning, I had to keep switching between 1/8" and 1/4" deep, plus rabbets at 3/8" and 1/2". Right on every time (I had a test piece to check, but this was so much easier than the stacked dado cutter). Not one swear word all day!

Finally - at the end of the day, take the motor out of the mount, and get the dust out of there (compressed air if you have to). Also, you have to clean the dust off the mount. If you just let sawdust sit, it will bond so tight it will be difficult to clean, thus explaining another reviewers complaints about it not adjusting smoothly.

The more I use this router, the more I want to use it. It keeps me in the shop and PRODUCTIVE.

I bought this router in order to place it under a router table. Currently, it is mounted in a Bench Dog Prolift, which is, in turn, mounted to the Bench Dog Cast Iron router table. All of this is mated to the left side of my trusty table saw. I think the weight of the set up contributes to a vibration free cut. A vibration free cut makes for a very happy me!
The very first thing I did was to raise a panel with a 3.5" Freud bit. I had used this bit before with a Makita 2.25 hp router. The results were fine, but it took forever and I thought I might burn up my little Japanese friend. Fortunately, we survived intact, but it took a toll on my nerves.
Skip ahead to now, I was able to make the exact same cut in 3 stress-free passes. Then I noticed the most amazing thing: the floor underneath my router table was littered with the most beautiful little shavings of wood. Imagine the fine, translucent shavings you would get with a well tuned Lie-Nielsen bench plane. The cut was beautiful! obviously, just as with stationary power tools, weight is a good thing!
As for the router, it is a solidly made tool. The electronics that control power work well. Upon startup, the router revs up and then slowly winds down to the proper setting. Start feeding your work too quickly and you can almost hear the router grunt as it applies more muscle to the job at hand. Back off on your work and the router speeds up and then slows back down to the correct rpm. I'm not too sure how I feel about the power switch and speed selection switch. neither seem to be protected from dust. I really do not care for the base casting. It is quite rough, with that "made in China" feel to it. However regarding both of these points, I am sure that this router was designed and built with table use in mind. In that case, perhaps these little concerns aren't particularly important... all in all, I am quite happy with my setup. I feel safe in saying that when mounted in a table, this router will produce consistent, high quality work!