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Portrait of a Burger as a Young Calf: The Story of One Man, Two Cows, and the Feeding of a Nation [Hardcover]

Peter Lovenheim (Author)
4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)


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Book Description

July 16, 2002 0609605917 978-0609605912 1ST
Four years ago, journalist Peter Lovenheim was standing in a long line at McDonald’s to buy a Happy Meal for his little daughter, which would come with a much-desired Teenie Beanie Baby—either a black-and-white cow named “Daisy” or an adorable red bull named “Snort.” Finding it rather strange that young children were being offered cuddly toy cows one minute and eating the grilled remains of real ones the next, Lovenheim suddenly saw clearly the great disconnect between what we eat and our knowledge of where it comes from. Determined to understand the process by which living animals become food, Lovenheim did the only thing he could think of: He bought a calf—make that twin calves, number 7 and number 8—from the dairy farm where they were born and asked for permission to spend as much time as necessary hanging around and observing everything that happened in the lives of these farm animals.

Portrait of a Burger as a Young Calf is the provocative true story of Peter Lovenheim’s hands-on journey into the dairy and beef industries as he follows his calves from conception to possible consumption. In the process, he gets to know the good, hard-working people who raise our cattle and make milk products, beef, and veal available to consumers like you and me. He supplies us with a “fly on the wall” view of how these animals are used to put food on America’s very abundant tables.

Constantly vigilant about wanting to be an observer who never interferes, Lovenheim allows the reader to see every aspect of a cow’s life, without passing judgment. Reading this book will forever change the way you think about food and the people and animals who provide it for us.


Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

A more generous view of the beef industry than Eric Schlosser's recent Fast Food Nation, this anecdotal account follows a cow's life from conception to consumption. Lovenheim (Mediate, Don't Litigate), a professional mediator, was buying his daughter a McDonald's Happy Meal with a coveted Beanie Baby cow when he was struck by how little most beef-eaters know about the process that turns cute calves into juicy burgers. He found an operating dairy farm near his upstate New York home that agreed to sell him two calves, and to allow him 24-hour access to all aspects of the farm's operation. Tracing the progress of his holstein calves as they are raised for "dairy meat" (middling quality beef that ends up at mid-priced restaurants), Lovenheim offers an absorbing firsthand look at cattle-raising. How bull semen is collected, why cows are made to ingest magnets, how bulls are de-horned and castrated, how dairy cows are chosen for slaughter, why antibiotics and additives are used, how a cattle auction is conducted these are just some of the daily operations that Lovenheim illuminates while introducing readers to the men and women who work these farms. He ultimately never sets foot in a slaughterhouse, and the book is more a neutral, matter-of-fact exploration than a muckraking expos‚, as much about Lovenheim's own education as it is about the beef that ends up on our tables.
Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information, Inc.

From Library Journal

Journalist Lovenheim's curiosity over how living things are turned into food inspired him to buy two calves and follow them from infancy to the slaughterhouse. His account of this process is a mix of agricultural science, insights into the meat business, and human-interest journalism. At its core are the personal stories of some of the people who raise beef and dairy cattle and those who slaughter them for human consumption. Along with the author, the reader discovers that much of the meat for fast-food hamburgers comes from dairy animals, either from cows whose production has slowed or from bull calves. The facts and story of beef production are presented well (and described in vivid detail with no apologies or call for reform), but the mix of science, farming, and irrelevant personal details is at times disconcerting. Recommended for public libraries. Tim McKimmie, New Mexico State Univ. Lib., Las Cruces
Copyright 2002 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 288 pages
  • Publisher: Crown; 1ST edition (July 16, 2002)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0609605917
  • ISBN-13: 978-0609605912
  • Product Dimensions: 6.5 x 1 x 9.4 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 15.2 ounces
  • Average Customer Review: 4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,622,981 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

 

Customer Reviews

13 Reviews
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Average Customer Review
4.1 out of 5 stars (13 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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11 of 11 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Thorough, scholarship, thought provoking, spiritual, November 20, 2002
This review is from: Portrait of a Burger as a Young Calf: The Story of One Man, Two Cows, and the Feeding of a Nation (Hardcover)
When I started this book I imagined another informative expose reinforcing my concerns about the eating of beef. However, what I found was a thorough, thoughtful, and engaging study of the dairy and beef industries, in which the author went to painful lengths to give fair consideration to all sides on the issue.

Lovenheim's book is not sensationalist muckracking. While I think his observations would reinforce many of the worries of those concerned about eating beef, or drinking milk induced by bovine growth hormone, the most striking part of this work is the otherwise overlooked consideration of cows as living creatures. I was struck by his descriptions of the cows' actual sense of community, their adaption and response (or seeming lack thereof) in the face of continual danger; that in fact they aren't quite the dumb animals we have been raised to believe they are. Lovenheim makes you consider that these animals are different than plants, and that you are making a conscious decision to take a living feeling creature and choosing to process it as a commodity entirely out of your own dietary choice and convenience.

The author's sensitivity, compassion, and admiration for those engaged in the various aspects of the dairy and beef industries is admirable. He also gives ample consideration to the historical place of beef in our diets, frequently alluding to his own Jewish spiritual tradition.

This is a substantive, worthwhile, and quite "readable" work. I highly recommend it; I was pleased to have picked it up, and felt I had both learned and acquired greater sensitivity as a result of completing it.

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11 of 11 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars A book which helped me decide to give up meat, November 11, 2002
By 
Shea K Mitchell (Elon University, NC) - See all my reviews
This review is from: Portrait of a Burger as a Young Calf: The Story of One Man, Two Cows, and the Feeding of a Nation (Hardcover)
This book first caught my eye when it was featured on BookTV, what struck me the most was that the author was not a vegetarian. Although at first glance this book might appear as a story of the dirty meat industry, it is instead unbiased truth. Yes, the meat industry is dirty and farmers don't have it easy, but it allows one to not feel pressed to give up meat, but presents the facts, or the story which allows the reader to become informed and go from there. From this story which I could hardly ever put down, I realized that I could not eat a cow. Furthermore, it also showed me that there was a lot more about the food I eat than I realized, which led me to other books. I encourage anyone and everyone to read this book and to understand where their meat comes from, and how they should go from there.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars Another reason to give up meat, May 7, 2007
Author Peter Lovenheim provides a rare glimpse into the life trajectory of an animal in today's modern agribusiness industry. Intended as a dispassionate chronicle of a calf from birth to slaughter, I found it one of the saddest books I've read. The animal farmers we meet are normal, basically decent people. Yet because of the economic priorities and inertia of how the business is done, the animals suffer mightily at their hands. Removed from their mothers at birth, they're deprived of her protective milk, and many sicken. Tethered by the neck, shivering in wooden hutches with no opportunity to play and minimal protection from the bitter winter weather, it's little wonder that only nine of 15 calves survive their first two months. And these are the ones not sent at once to slaughter. Cows are cycled through artificially inseminated pregnancies, milked (literally and metaphorically) through a string of calves until their production drops below quota. Then, as a final gesture of thanks for their service, they're put to death. That is if they don't first become "downers," when they are winched and dragged to the dead/dying pile to await the renderer's bullets.

This book should be on the reading list of all who continue to eat meat.
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Inside This Book (learn more)
First Sentence:
AT FOUR-THIRTY ON A MONDAY AFTERNOON in the herd office, Sue Smith peels off her navy blue farm coveralls and says good night. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
night milkers, herd office, heifer twin, maternity barn, sick pack, calf auction, beef list, knocking pen, farm cap, cattle hauler, milk parlor, barn boots, finishing diet, cull cows, artificial inseminator, herd manager, corn diet, feed wagon, collection ring, lame cows, alley rat, bull calf, dead calves, milking herd, stock trailer
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Sue Smith, New York, Andrew Smith, Batzing Farm, Peter Vonglis, Taylor Packing, Tom Taylor, York Landing, Genesee River, Joe Hopper, John Weidman, Craig Road, Don Yahn, Farm Sanctuary, Dave Hale, Livingston County, Shelly Vonglis, Jim Taylor, Larry Smith, Tender Lean, Comfort Inn, Hanna Farm, Jessica Treuthart, Jim Foss, Scot Batzing
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