Customer Reviews

Powerbuilt 648796 Honda Crankcase Pulley Removal Tool

5 star:		(151)
4 star:		(21)
3 star:		(11)
2 star:		(3)
1 star:		(6)

 

 

If you like to do your own semi-major engine work, do not hesitate to buy one of these in advance. Removing the crank pulley bolt without one is an excersize in frustration and risky hacks. I tried it, and was quite frustrated. So I bought this tool. $25 later, and the bolt is off with very little effort. You will need this tool, a 19mm socket (for the pulley bolt), an extension for the socket, and two decently long breaker bars. A long-handled socket wrench, or a socket wrench with a cheater pipe will work fine, too. The wrench/breaker bar you use on this tool has to be 1/2" drive.

Definitely 100% worth it.

Strangely, the tool I received was not an Alltrade, but a Powerbuilt.

Used on a 1998 Civic (1996-2000 should be the same) after my 650ftlbs impact gun wouldn't budge it. This is a must have tool for the job. There are a few different sizes, so measure before buying. Just measure on the inside of the hexagon from side to side. This is the 50mm tool. Oh, don't forget to have two breaker bars available, one to hold the inner nut and one you put on this.

This tool saves time and aggravation when performing a timing belt changeout on Honda Accords. Using it effectively requires the application of two breaker bars; one to hold this tool in place to keep the crankshaft from turning, and a second one to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt with.

A very good value, and one that I would recommend to anyone.

Did a timing belt change on my 99 CRV. Repair manual said to use a chain type holding tool. No way would that work. Searched around the internet and everywhere. They all wanted $90+ for it. Then found this one on amazon. Worked EXCELLENT! Had to use a 7 foot pipe slipped on to a breaker bar. That bolt was tight! No way I could hold that pulley without this special tool. Since the bolt was so tight, I thought it was turn "clockwise" to loose, so I called the dealer. They said it was the standard "counter clockwise" to remove.

If you've made it here, you're in the right place, but probably frustrated and maybe bleeding. Relax, put on a band-aid, and put it back together for another couple days while you wait for the tool to arrive.

I recently changed the timing belt in my wife's 1998 Acura Integra 1.8 GS, and I have a couple observations that might be helpful, and save you the couple weeks I lost.

1. I didn't have to disconnect the steering pump, just unbolted it and held it out of the way with a dowel against the fender which was protected by a towel. The cruise control too.

2. Lining up the timing marks was pretty tricky, but by setting it at TDC before taking off the belt and pulley, then putting drill bits in the holes at the tops of the cams to hold them at TDC helped a lot. Once I had lined up the crank timing mark (crank sprocket to oil pump housing) and threaded the timing belt in the proper order, I rocked the cam sprockets back and forth slightly with a 12 mm wrench to get the belt to slide on them.

3. It's just not worth it to try to get the crank pulley off with anything but the tool ($23 from Amazon) or a ridiculously powerful impact gun. I popped the chrome off a 1/2" extension by torqueing it. Wear safety glasses. It's not necessary to put a breaker bar on the tool too, there's a reinforced place at the edge of the fender that will catch it if you put a regular 1/2" drive ratchet on it.

4. Replacing the tensioner and the spring seems pretty important, as well as making sure that it is loose enough to adjust properly. Rotating the cam sprockets 3 teeth forward (CCW) allows the tensioner to take up the slack in the belt.

Excellent guide at team-integra.net

Good luck and reward yourself when you finish.

This tool made a near impossible job (without the tool) easy. I had used impact wrenches and tried other methods of holding the crank pulley in order to loosen the bolt, to no avail. This tool helped make quick work of the job. Well designed, easy to use, and cheap to own. Thanks

Don't be fooled by what you see or hear on the net about removing that Honda pulley. You WILL need this tool. NAPA had to order it but the warehouse was out. Autozone looked at me like I was talking jibberish. Checker showed it as a loan tool but no stores had ever actually had one at all and they wanted over 50 bucks to order it. For the average home mechanic there is no other way. Your 150psi Craftsman compressor wont touch it. Forget WD40 cause it wont reach the threads where the problem is. Use a torch and risk damage to your seal. The starter bump method wont work on most Honda engines that use this tool because they rotate the opposite way. And a pulley wrench that wraps around the pulley could cause the dampening material inside the pulley to slip making it useless and you will need to buy a new pulley. Only very high-power impact guns usually at automotive shops will zip it off. Make sure you have 2 breaker bars (NOT A RATCHET that can jump teeth) and a friend to help hold one. Use only 1/2inch size tools at least. This tool does not fit very snug or deep so a friend is essential to keep it in place while you break it loose. The bolt is NOT REVERSE THREADED, so don't make the mistake of making it tighter. Use the shortest socket extension possible to minimize flex on your tools. I tried 2 and got over 6 inches of flex before I ran out of room. Using some kind of pipe for a handle extension is OK. Just make sure its strong you have enough room under the car. I used my handle from my 3ton floor jack, and placed it on the handle of the breaker attached to the tool. 4 stars because it fits loose and needs to be held in place. Could be redesigned. Good Luck.

It really help to do the job, and it is not expensive.
Be sure to know that this item (50 mm) is for newer honda.
Older Honda use a smaller one (42 mm).

With that bolt being secured at 180 ft-lbs of torque, this tool is a must! There's no other way to hold that crank pulley and either loosen or tighten that bolt. Nothing like having the right tool for the job. The price is worth it considering how it's made. However, one could just as easily buy a 50mm hex nut and have a bar welded onto it and it would work in the same manner. You might save $20 or more that way, but your time is worth something.

This tool used with 18" bar was able to break loose the crankshaft bolt that my 450lb air impact couldn't. I just cannot see how anyone can replace Honda timing belt without this tool.