Product Features
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![]() The Accu-Fence has replaceable sides with easy-access screws. View larger. |
It also comes complete with a beveled, front edge to facilitate smooth transitions of the miter gauge as it moves over the edge of the table.
No matter the size or thickness of the work piece, the Powermatic 64A's exclusive 3VX belt offers increased efficiency--especially when compared to standard belts--and less vibration for smooth operation. And when dealing with wider stock, users will appreciate the T-slot miter gauge with positive stops.
Versatile, Expandable Design
For versatility, two cast-iron wings, a wood extension table with melamine surface, and an independent leaf safety guard come standard, while a lockable push-button switch with removable safety key protects against accidental starts.
And to help get you started right away, the quick-connect power cord reduces assembly time.
Accu-Fence with 50-Inch Rip Capacity
The Powermatic 64A comes equipped with an Accu-Fence with a rip capacity of 50 inches to the right of the blade for reliable accuracy and to help make each job faster and more precise. This fence length is particularly ideal for a home shop where space may be an issue.
For greater speed and accuracy, an interior spring applies constant pressure when not locked down, which takes the slop out of fence movement. Replaceable sides with easy-access screws allow for quick adjustment close to the tabletop, so nothing will slip underneath.
Dimensions and Warranty Information
The Powermatic 64A measures 32 x 34 x 70 inches (W x H x D), weighs 343 pounds, and is backed by a five-year warranty.
What's in the Box
One saw body with switch; one stand assembly; two extension wings; one motor; one blade guard; one motor bracket; one dust shroud; one standard insert; one dado insert; one pulley cover seat; one motor base plate; one pulley cover; one miter gauge; one miter gauge bar; two handle assembles; two splitter-mount bracket assemblies; one drive belt; one pin; one arbor wrench; one combination wrench; two hex wrenches; five hardware bags; one wood extension table with legs; owner's manual; and warranty card.
![]() The versatile, expandable design helps you tackle projects big and small. |
Product Details
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My saw arrived in a beat up box, but it was well protected. The assembly wasnt too bad, I agree that if you could put together a BBQ this should not be too much harder. the hardest part is squaring it all up if you have never done it.
It passed the nickel test barely and after some tuning it is very square. I added a Power Twist belt and now it is as smooth as a very expensive cabinet saw. Absolutely no vibration - it just hums. Sure, it works well without it, but thats like buyng a sports car and putting cheap tires on it.
Others have said how bad the stock blade is, but I still use it for rough work, save the expensive blades for finish work. Its always best to have a few blades to rotate through. I have it on a mobile base, but I never move it, instead choosing to move the other machines around it. my shop is very small, and the saw serves as the centerpiece.
I have it on a 20A circuit with other outlets, and it dims the lights so I would suggest a dedicated outlet or something with less on it. The powertwist belt helps in startup - it hasnt blown a circuit since I installed it.
1 1/2 HP is plenty to rip to the saw's max depth of 3" in most woods without bogging. I have only tried large pieces of fir, oak and cedar, nothing really hard. You just have to be careful on the rate of feed.
I agree that the miter stick sucks. I replaced that after about a month when I had to make my first miter cut. I have a great Porter Cable compund miter saw (LOVE it) so I do 99% of my cuts at 90 deg on the table saw. There are many aftermarket miter guages that are great. At least its a T-Slot in the saw.
I made an outfeed table that bolts on with the rear angle iron that the fence rides on. I looked at buying a table, but none of them were exactly the size I wanted, or had the right method of attachment. It wasnt hard to make.
I highly recommend Jim Tolpin's book "Table Saw Magic." It will give you plans for jigs that are indispensable, and show you basic and advanced techniques for using the saw.
I have slowly replaced all the fastners with high grade ones and used locktite so I can get everything snug without bending threads and it wont vibrate loose.
Make a zero clearance insert for your best blade. when you do your finish work you will notice the difference.
Overall this is a great saw, I have used it for everything from cabinetry to rough cutting lumber for framing my house. I consider it the high end contractor style saw, better than some cabinet saws. Whats the use of having a cabinet saw if the arbor isnt true and the fence sucks? The stock blade guard is easy to work around, and if you get in the habit from the begining of working with it, it will save you one day. The saw is heavy enough to take a large sheet without moving, and has enough HP to cut to its max depth.
Next upgrade?
Summary:
Worth the money, great saw.
Tips:
Buy a Power Twist Belt, cheap upgrade.
Buy good blades - keep them sharp and clean.
Use featherboards and push sticks and ALWAYS use the blade guard unless Dado-ing.
Make or buy an outfeed table.
Get Zero Clearance inserts.
The saw cut true pretty much right out of the box. The blade was parallel to the fence and the 45 and 90 degree stops were correct. Little adjustment was needed. The saw is very solid and well-built, and shows virtually no movement when I lean hard against it. That 350+ pounds really pays off here.
The cast iron table and wings arrive covered in a sticky tar to prevent rust. Right after you clean that off I would recommend at least one good coat of standard furniture paste wax. The top can oxidize quickly from hand prints or any water. I momentarily placed a glass of water on the table top and the ring mark is still there. The wax all but prevents this.
Replacing the belt with a multi-link aftermarket belt does reduce the small amount of vibration that was there to begin with. To be honest, mine actually passed the nickel test even with the factory belt installed after it was broken in.
Having the 50" capacity is not something I use every day, but when I need it I REALLY NEED IT. I am glad I got the longer fence, and as an added bonus I can mount my router in the extra table space. Also, I use a shop-built cross-cut sled on the saw and with the longer rails I can slide the fence out of the way without removing it from the saw.
The fence itself is marvelous. It took 2 minutes to get it calibrated to the inch-scale along the edge and parallel to the mitre slots. I trust the fence to measure correctly. I cannot count how much time this has saved me in the shop--not having to double check the fence-to-blade distance for each cut.
The saw blade that comes with the unit is pretty crappy, but is nice to have for cutting recycled wood, which might have nails or such in it.
Overall I would give it 5/5 stars, since the minor defects of the free blade and having to wax the top are minor compared to the other very fine merits of the saw.
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