Sociologist Ashley Mears takes us behind the brightly lit runways and glossy advertisements of the fashion industry in this insider's study of the world of modeling. Mears, who worked as a model in New York and London, draws on observations as well as extensive interviews with male and female models, agents, clients, photographers, stylists, and others, to explore the economics and politics--and the arbitrariness-- behind the business of glamour. Exploring a largely hidden arena of cultural production, she shows how the right "look" is discovered, developed, and packaged to become a prized commodity. She examines how models sell themselves, how agents promote them, and how clients decide to hire them. An original contribution to the sociology of work in the new cultural economy, Pricing Beauty offers rich, accessible analysis of the invisible ways in which gender, race, and class shape worth in the marketplace.
Pricing Beauty
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Editorial Reviews
Review
"Mears gives voice to a group of women who are paid to be seen and not heard."--Slate
"Mears has produced a fascinating study."--Boston Globe/The Find
"Mears acknowledges that walking the runway can be a thrill unlike any other [but also] notes some of the industry's exploitative aspects."--Stylelist
"A nuanced, and deliciously complicated depiction of an industry."--Tottenville Review
"Mears's book represents an original, highly readable contribution to the field."--Choice
From the Inside Flap
"Ashley Mears is a talented ethnographer, a first-rate sociological thinker and an artful writer. Pricing Beauty offers a dazzling, engaging, utterly original contribution to public and scholarly understanding of embodiment, gender, race, culture, and markets. A riveting work of priceless beauty!" --Judith Stacey, author Unhitched: Love, Marriage and Family Values from West Hollywood to Western China
"Mears's winning formula: combine deep inside knowledge of the fashion business, based on intensive observation, with useful sociological ideas, and present the result in readable, witty and incisive prose. I learned a lot and you will too." --Howard S. Becker, author of Art Worlds
"Ashley Mears shows us beauty is not in the eyes of the beholder but in the complex ensemble of organizational imperatives, social networking, and critical timing. She reverses stereotypes of gender pay, sexuality, and the making of markets. It is a first-hand analysis that does not let up in its page-turning intelligence and unremitting clarity." --Harvey Molotch, Professor of Metropolitan Studies, New York University
"Pricing Beauty is a a courageous and provocative book. Mears takes us behind the curtain of high-stakes fashion. Drawing on her own experiences as a model, Mears uncovers the far less glamorous side of the industry, one that few of us will ever see. This is sociology at its finest: thoughtful analysis, great storytelling and an empathetic perspective on the lives of so many who pursue their dreams, only to find a few nightmares along the way. A must read for anyone interested in understanding how celebrity is made." --Sudhir Venkatesh, author of Gang Leader for a Day
"This book is a pleasure to read--an entertaining, well-written and sophisticated analysis. I strongly recommend it to anyone interested in the intersection of aesthetics, gender, and labor." --Debra Gimlin, author of Body Work
"Mears's winning formula: combine deep inside knowledge of the fashion business, based on intensive observation, with useful sociological ideas, and present the result in readable, witty and incisive prose. I learned a lot and you will too." --Howard S. Becker, author of Art Worlds
"Ashley Mears shows us beauty is not in the eyes of the beholder but in the complex ensemble of organizational imperatives, social networking, and critical timing. She reverses stereotypes of gender pay, sexuality, and the making of markets. It is a first-hand analysis that does not let up in its page-turning intelligence and unremitting clarity." --Harvey Molotch, Professor of Metropolitan Studies, New York University
"Pricing Beauty is a a courageous and provocative book. Mears takes us behind the curtain of high-stakes fashion. Drawing on her own experiences as a model, Mears uncovers the far less glamorous side of the industry, one that few of us will ever see. This is sociology at its finest: thoughtful analysis, great storytelling and an empathetic perspective on the lives of so many who pursue their dreams, only to find a few nightmares along the way. A must read for anyone interested in understanding how celebrity is made." --Sudhir Venkatesh, author of Gang Leader for a Day
"This book is a pleasure to read--an entertaining, well-written and sophisticated analysis. I strongly recommend it to anyone interested in the intersection of aesthetics, gender, and labor." --Debra Gimlin, author of Body Work
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5 of 6 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
This book is a thorough, academic treatment of the modeling industry. The author ably covers a number of fascinating sociological aspects of one of the more extraordinary industries in modern culture. This is so even though really she never defines beauty, and so has a tough time talking about its economics.
Part of the problem rests in the style of the study, focused as it is on interview. It is clear that the author is very bright, but she insists on forming her argument around quotes from industry professionals, very few of which are as sophisticated or insightful as she is. The result is chapters filled with inane statements and colloquialisms that can't possibly be viewed in an intellectual light. The 'like's and 'you know's can be humorous if viewed objectively, but certainly detract from an otherwise engaging survey.
As it is, then, it seems as though no real point is made, and one can refute the vague impressions that are made with mere questions. For instance, this reader would have liked to have seen a more robust investigation into the nature of beauty, and why certain models are chosen over others. Thanks to a myriad of quotes, we know that commercial models appeal to 'your mom' and editorial models look rather 'freakish', but we don't necessarily know the source of these standards. If nothing else, this investigation would help in the attempt to uncover some of the more provocative arguments made in the chapter on race and thinness.
Throughout, however, the author maintains a very academic tone, treating all of her subjects as if they were saying anything important. The result is something of a burlesque--perhaps more telling about the state of academia than anything else.
The issue of 'pricing beauty' is nonetheless a fascinating one, and the material that this book presents is a wonderful introduction. With regard to the book's grand scope, one will see how modeling is a reflection of many of the great concerns and opportunities modern culture faces. And, contrary to some of the book's insinuations, the fashion world represents one of the last real instances of pure market capitalism, where individuals buy and sell according to their own preferences and compete against one another to attain the elusive commodity that is 'the look'.
Part of the problem rests in the style of the study, focused as it is on interview. It is clear that the author is very bright, but she insists on forming her argument around quotes from industry professionals, very few of which are as sophisticated or insightful as she is. The result is chapters filled with inane statements and colloquialisms that can't possibly be viewed in an intellectual light. The 'like's and 'you know's can be humorous if viewed objectively, but certainly detract from an otherwise engaging survey.
As it is, then, it seems as though no real point is made, and one can refute the vague impressions that are made with mere questions. For instance, this reader would have liked to have seen a more robust investigation into the nature of beauty, and why certain models are chosen over others. Thanks to a myriad of quotes, we know that commercial models appeal to 'your mom' and editorial models look rather 'freakish', but we don't necessarily know the source of these standards. If nothing else, this investigation would help in the attempt to uncover some of the more provocative arguments made in the chapter on race and thinness.
Throughout, however, the author maintains a very academic tone, treating all of her subjects as if they were saying anything important. The result is something of a burlesque--perhaps more telling about the state of academia than anything else.
The issue of 'pricing beauty' is nonetheless a fascinating one, and the material that this book presents is a wonderful introduction. With regard to the book's grand scope, one will see how modeling is a reflection of many of the great concerns and opportunities modern culture faces. And, contrary to some of the book's insinuations, the fashion world represents one of the last real instances of pure market capitalism, where individuals buy and sell according to their own preferences and compete against one another to attain the elusive commodity that is 'the look'.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
By JYK
Format:Paperback
As an ex-model, Prof. Mears is uniquely equipped to provide an academic insight into the modeling world, and she delivers. Providing a balanced mix between anecdotal experiences from former and current models, including herself, and factual data, she strips away the glamorous veneer to expose the economic realities and challenges facing the young girls who dream of being the next supermodel. Should be a required reading for anyone thinking of becoming a model and his/her parents.
2 of 5 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase
This was one of the most inspiring and truth-striking books I have ever read. It instilled in me a sense of the "sociological understanding and perspective" constantly themed throughout, identifying aspects unbeknown to me and the average person. Through investigation one can discover all sorts of things that society has instilled in the everyday and commonplace, even discrimination in forms of gender and race, economic hierarchy, and even more. So many aspects of the overall market and life in general were provided in new illuminating ways throughout this sociological compilation.
Ashley Mears is a wonderful author, sociologist, and overall curious perspective individual.
5 Stars!
Ashley Mears is a wonderful author, sociologist, and overall curious perspective individual.
5 Stars!
