Customer Reviews

Protective Coating #167779 1LB PC7 Epoxy Paste

5 star:		(7)
4 star:		(2)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(2)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

This stuff is magic. It will form a bond like nothing I've seen before. I've been using it for about 10 years and have never been unhappy with the results. I just used up my last batch filling in a 4x4 post that had a lot of deep dryrot (cleaned out the dry rot with a dremel)... some primer and paint and you cannot tell any work was done. It'll glue anything to anything....and is easy to work with.

I've even cast this into small emblems for my Triumph (made plaster casts, and then coated the inside with Vaseline as a release agent).

Note, you can smooth this once applied by using denatured alcohol....speed up curing by using a hair dryer on HOT.

Difficult to mix, very thick, almost like chewing gum, dries slowly, but amazingly strong, doesn't shrink, fills gaps, stays in place. Other adhesives are easier to use, but this stuff last forever and will work with almost anything.

This is an amazing product. It never fails to succeed at the seemingly impossible jobs. Its unbelievable strength requries minimal surface area. The only downside is finding a way to hold your two pieces in place for the 24 hour curing time.

Prepare ahead to mix and you'll need gloves and sticks you may want to throw away. Solves while damp with household vinegar. Once it is set it is pretty tough to get off and got some in a tiny crack in my rough hands and it had to be removed like a splinter once it dried.

Easiest to simply take both whole cans and put both together on a discardable hard surface (6" x 12" piece of dustless plywood scrap)to mix well. I used plastic painters knives to quickly mix and apply and that worked very well. Cheap enough to use the whole can and make ENOUGH to use all at once. Like I said prepare ahead.

Essentially a gooey epoxy that hardens into a VERY tough bond. If it touches a surface (skin etc) then it will stay on it SO remove with household vinegar while damp. The data sheet shows thousands of pounds of tensile strength per sq inch when cured and supported.

Not for use around fire etc but in a wooden boat it is excellent to fill and then mill an area. I would tend to use this to fill an area that is well supported rather than put it out on the end of an arm etc as a primary strength point. If you put a greased bolt into the stuff the bolt will back out and leave threads if that does not work heating the bolt with a soldering iron briefly will let it back out also. This can take a thread well if supported well and cured. More for tertiary strength than primary strength (in my opinion) on critical equipment.

A very thin coat comes off (pops off) a smooth surface so unless it is affixed to the substrate properly by roughening the substrate a surform will take off a cured thin coat easily. Works best to create a tough bond in an area rather than cosmetic patches. Appears to be pure epoxy without fiberglass fibers unlike Bondo. I will use it when I repair my mast step as opposed to other epoxies.

Sands and surforms (micro plane) and scrapes very well once set completely on a roughened surface.

Get all amine blush and waxes and oils off the substrate before affixing the PC....

I had only read about this stuff, but whenever I did read about it, the reviews were great. I have a 3 year old Eames Lounge Chair, which amazingly is held together by glue at it's most critical points. For some reason the glue gave way on one side of my chair at the shock mount. Others suffering from this problem suggested several glues/epoxies. The stuff that Herman Miller uses is from 3m, is hard to get and costs a bomb. So assume that's why most people were suggesting PC-7. Could not find it anywhere, so had to order it. Not easy to work with. So gooey when you mix it. Like some substance from outer space that will not get off you. To me this was a sign that stuff loves to stick to stuff. I probably over clamped my work, thus leaving a thinner layer of PC-7 than ideally desired. But within hours I could see that this stuff was bonding nice and hard. Chair now feels as solid as ever ! Love this stuff. Wish I had known about it years ago, as there are plenty of things I had no clue as to what to use to repair them. This stuff would have done the job.

I am now thinking to use it as a protective coating in place of steel plating on the bottom of my car. I touch bottom when I enter my office garage. Was thinking to weld on some steel plates to take the abuse, but now wondering if this stuff would actually be the cheaper, quicker and always available alternative ?

This stuff is the greatest - deserves more then five stars.

I have even made temporary emergency repairs on major industrial steel parts and kept factories up and running.

Holds like a rock.

Cant say enough good things about this great stuff.

I'm not a contractor, but I am a guy who found a lot of wood rot near the windows(!!!). And, I decided to try this product. Here's my take on it.


Pros:
1. Once applied, it dries to a nice durable hard substance.
2. It's great for filling in large gaps (no more than 3 inches).
3. Once it's cured, you can sand it, cut it into shape, paint it and so on.

Cons:
1. It's hard to apply. It's gooey like thick chewing gum and will stick to the putty knife. I had to actually scrape the knife on the hard wood to get it off and stick unto the wood itself. I suggest mixing it and letting it sit for about 10 minutes. It makes the epoxy easier to apply.
2. It's difficult to form into a shape. It's gooey and won't stay in shape for long.
3. Not intended to fill gaps more than 3 inches large or areas that has a complex shape ... hmmm maybe I'm not using it correctly.
4. The color is dark gray. It's not white. It didn't affect me since I was going to paint, but I figured others should know.



Things I've learned to make this product easier to use:
1. Apply a wood hardening agent/petrifier before using this product (Also, you can "inject" it for more protection). I used Minwax 41700 High Performance Wood Hardener. Wait a day for it to soak into the wood.
2. Mix and let it sit for about 10 minutes or until the consistency isn't so gooey. It becomes easier to apply to the wood or surface. If you can't shape then and there then make sure that you apply more than what the actual shape of the area is. You can always sand it down.
3. Once applied, use rubbing alcohol (or some type of acetone) and a putty knife to straighten out the sides to make it flush with the surface. Don't try smoothing out the side without the rubbing alcohol. It will stick to the putty knife and ruin the shape!
4. Make sure to sand (60 coarse sand paper) it flush to the wood. Otherwise, it looks ... well, it just doesn't look good. Do yourself a favor, and buy a sander. I tried sanding by hand ... not fun.


When I read that you can inject the wood hardener into the wood I didn't quite understand what that meant. But, I found out. And, here's what I know so far. You're basically injecting the wood hardener into the wood (like a needle), so that the wood will soak in the wood hardener at various points.
1. Take a drill with a small but long drill bit and carefully make holes (not too many ... try 2 or 3 for large areas) into the wood that is near the area affected by wood rot. Drill at a steep angle to the surface of the wood and go in deep.
2. Fill the hole with the wood hardening agent. Use a large syringe-like item (think turkey basting).
3. Let it sit for a day.

Let's see if injecting helps against future wood rot like some people say it does.


In the end:
Unfortunately or fortunately, I went with another product. It's called Abatron (unfortunately, I couldn't find it on Amazon). It's easier to use. It's like clay (you can manipulate and shape with your hands), but a bit on the expensive side. I found that I can fill in huge gaps in the wood and form into a complex shape ... kind of like sculpting. Make sure you use rubbing alcohol on a putty knife when smoothing out the surface.


May I never see wood rot, again!!!

HTH

excellent product, have using this product for many years, saved many dollars fixing items that were broken or needed to be filled.

I was searching for a 1 to 1 epoxy paste that I used to use when I repaired yachts in Florida a few years ago. This is not it. Too thick and too dark in color. Very difficult to mix. Might be good for sealing up plumbing leaks. Has more of a gum quality and less of a "paste" texture.

Both components are so thick, that it's very difficult to extract them out of the can. Once it's out, it's difficult to mix. Takes looooong time to harden. Disappointed overall.