Customer Reviews

26-27", Speedometer

5 star:		(26)
4 star:		(18)
3 star:		(14)
2 star:		(6)
1 star:		(24)

 

 

I purchased this item from Niagara Cycle Works and received it promptly. Their price was more appealing than RDS Bikes. This type of instrument was common years ago but the older ones were made of metal and had a small diameter metal wheel attached to the spokes. The disc was perforated near the outside edge and a metal gear meshed with the disc to drive the speedometer cable which in turn operated the speedometer and odometer. This made in China product is genuine plastic. While not the quality of the old American models, it operates very well and for the money I am most satisfied with it. It is easy to read while riding compared to the electronic models which can be very difficult due to light reflection. The installation is very simple. Noting a complaint regarding lack of instructions, here is how installation is done: The accessory has 3 basic parts - the head (as pictured above), the drive cable and the drive gear assembly. Starting at the bottom, the drive gear has a metal arm that protrudes through the spokes. This, in turn, rotates a small wheel that powers a gear that rotates the cable that runs up to the head. (it remains to be seen how well this will hold up over time as the remainder of the drive gear is plastic)
Unbolt the front wheel after deciding if you want the head on the right or left side of your handle bars. The drive gear can be mounted on the left or right side of the axle There is a plastic cap that screws on the end where the cable is not inserted, the cable can be inserted from 2 directions, just one is needed, insert it into the top side and the cap goes to the bottom. Unbolt the front wheel and remove it. Recenter the axle slightly to compensate for the space used by drive gear attachment. Slide a washer (provided) onto the axle, the drive gear, a second washer and then reattach the wheel to the fork. It might take a bit of pulling to slightly spread the fork. Position the drive gear so that the cable can go straight into the drive gear attachment, tighten your front axle bolts - but - not too tight as you do not want to break the plastic gear housing. The cable screws in on the top side. Mount the head on the handle bars, screw the other end of the cable into the head and you are in business! One more thing: To keep the cable from snagging onto something, I used a couple of plastic cable ties to bring the cable tight up against the side of the fork. As the handle bars and front fork turn in unison, there is no binding of the cable. Would I buy anogther one? I would without hesitation should the need arise. I have seen replacement drive gears advertised for a few dollars, so no sweat if the drive gear apparatus wears out. Not being interested in 15 or so functions that the electronic models offer, this one suits me just fine. Hope this helps anybody with questions of how these are installed.

After struggling for some time with the speedometer without instructions I decided to write a short instruction--I hope it will help without pictures. The main idea is that the speedometer is attached to middle right side of the handlebar and the grey round plastic part that turns inside the suspension forks of the front wheel on the right. Then just attach the short black cable and you are done. I can't believe that they dared to sell this item without instructions; therefore only three stars. Otherwise, I would have given 5 stars because it is great fun and EASY to read. And you do not have the problem that the display turns black when the sun shines on it, which can be the case with the electronic speedometers.

1. Attach the speedometer with the large black plastic screw to the metal mounting bracket by aligning it with the two indentations. Make sure the speedometer is not upside down. (Do not remove the two screws at the bottom of the speedometer)
2. Then attach the speedometer with mounting bracket attached to the middle RIGHT side of your handlebar just right of the stem.
3. Loosen your front wheel, unscrew the quick lease, insert the grey round plastic part INSIDE the suspension forks on the RIGHT side by using the two supplied washers. The metal bracket attached to the round plastic part faces towards the spokes. Reattach the front wheel.
4. Attach the cable to the speedometer (marked "UP" on the cable) and into the grey round plastic part now attached to the front wheel at the RIGHT side inside the brackets. The cable is just long enough to reach from the speedometer to the plastic part attached to the front wheel in a straight line down.
P.S. I do not take any responsibility for these instructions. Follow them at your own risk.

I got a bicycle in mid June and purchased this Speedometer Pyramid Pro 26/27 with Resettable Odometer about a month later. I was riding almost every day between 15 and 22 miles and liked seeing the length of my rides and checking the time it took for these rides. This guage is easy to read and while it worked it was a joy to see the miles ticking along. It no longer is resettable as the third digit to the left does not move in coordination with the other slots. It is no longer an accurate odometer as the other slots don't work either most of the time. Not a reliable odometer although the speed still works. I would have loved this product if it had not malfunctioned after only 3 months.

As a previous reviewer indicated, this comes with no instructions, though I did not find it too difficult to install. The only problem I had was figuring out which side of the bike to mount the rotating tooth that engages with the spokes. If you do it on the wrong side, then you have to take it off and re-mount it on the others side of the wheel. So, I assembled the entire speedometer and simple held the end that connects to the wheel up to the wheel with the bike upside down. I then gave the wheel a good spin while holding the speedometer up to either side of the wheel to see which way was correct. The other thing to note is that it is in KM/H and KM, not MPH and Miles. So, be ready to multiply the readings by 0.6 for a quick conversion.

I purchased this item to keep track of the miles I ride my bike each time I go to the park. It is very nice to know if I have ridden 10, 15, 20 miles. And the speed I am riding is also nice to know. This item is reasonably easy to install. It is very easy to read. I am glad I have this item on my bike. However, on some English racing style bikes which have the fast, easy off front tire, this item may not work. This item appears to be made for bikes where the front wheel is permantly bolted fork. If the front wheel has the fast remove handle, there may be a problem installing the cable.

Very satisfied to find this speedometer available. Perfect to put with my Schwinn Cruiser Deluxe 7.....had been searching for something like this for awhile. Would highly recommend it to anyone looking for retro gear.

I found it hard to imagine why there is no instuctions on how to install or directions on operation.

I HAD A SPEEDOMETER LIKE THIS ONE EXCEPT IT WAS SQUARE-SHAPED WHEN I WAS A KID AND I LOVED IT, SO WHEN I CAME ACROSS THIS ONE I PURCHASED IT FOR MY SON. HE LOVES IT, HE LIKES THE FACT THAT HE CAN SEE HOW FAST AND HOW FAR HE HAS GOME ON HIS BIKE.

The product came in a timely fashion and seems neat, however it came with no instructions. I emailed the company through Amazon and did not receive a reply. My son is very disappointed that his new accessory doesn't work and I am very disappointed that the company will not support their product.

Just as another reviewer wrote above, mine had no instructions included. Worse, I just bought a one speed beach cruiser coaster brake type bike and I don't think these are made for it. There was just not enough space. If I tried to the left of the fork nearest the spokes, it would require eliminating the inner nut that keeps the cone secure. when I tried the space to the outside of the fork leg, the trip lever won't reach inside the spokes. The problem is simple ... the center hole in the unit is just too small to fit over the cone and the cone locking nut so as to lay tight to the spoke side of the axle ... In sheer desparation I used a Dremel tool to cut out the axle sized hole all the way up to a hole big enough to slide over the cone and the cone stop nut. Seems to work fine now.