183 of 187 people found the following review helpful
on November 5, 2010
I struggled for a long time before I decided to buy these boots. I looked at all the reviews and thought hard about what size to get. as you know, many people say to size down at least half a size for the beckman/gentleman traveler. they say these boots are unlined and without an insole. this is only halfway true! there is no lining on the sides, yes; all that is there is the other side of the leather, no fabric (in fact there is no fabric anywhere on this boot). this is good for those of us in warmer climates. but reviewers are only partly correct when they say there is no insole. in fact, there is a permanent (unremovable) leather insole! many people say (and it was the design of Red Wing that) these boots are to be worn without additional insoles and that your foot should rest on the leather insole. this is the biggest point of controversy over the beckman/gentleman traveler. personally, i wear these boots without additional insoles, and i do so happily. the leather insole will eventually mold to your foot. for some feet this process may be violent. it is also true that there is no arch support. i generally enjoy good arch support but with these boot i find it is not a necessity; i can walk all day with out it.
it is important to discuss how these leather insoles will effect the size you buy. i encourage you to go to the local red wing store and find what size red wings fit you well. when you know that follow this formula: if you intend to wear these boots without additional insoles (which i recommend) then please size down half a size. it is my opinion that Red Wing made the interior of these boots a bit bigger so that customers could fit the wool lining of their choice in the boots (after all this is a company who's headquarters is in a very cold place, yet these boots come unlined). however, if you want to wear insoles with these boots then do this: you see, i find this leather has stretched considerably in the one week that i have owned them. i could reasonably fit some THIN insoles in these boots now, something i could not do on the first day. on the first day i did try several insoles and with even the thinest i found that the top of my foot was severely pressed across the area that is at the bottom of the laces where many layers of leather are stacked. this area which was the tightest at first has now stretched out considerably and i can comfortably wear thin insoles the boots. therefore, if you desire to wear thick insoles then you ought to buy your true red wing size.
now i will tell you what you will experience if you decide to buy these boots online without ever having tried them on. you will follow my advice and the advice of others who have told you to size down half a size, you will buy the boots online and feel your heart race as you realized you have spent 300 dollars on boots you have never tried on. in a few days you will get the boots and quickly try them on. you will be shocked at how small they are and you will have buyers remorse. you will think about returning them. you will walk around the house in them to see what it is like to walk on leather insoles only. you will worry that they will hurt your feet if you walk a long distance. you will try to walk back and forth in you living room for 15 minutes to simulate walking across the city...you will get bored and begin to re-read reviews about these boots to see if you made a poor decision in either sizing or with these boots altogether. this will go on like this for about two or three days. but as you wear them about your house, you will find that they begin to loosen up a bit. and then you will walk outside...and then down the street for an extended period. finally, you will see that these boot do actually fit! and that you love walking on the leather insoles, you don't need hiking insoles after all! yay! but, for those of you who have need of arch support, you will want to get some good insoles.
but for everyone, you will think these boots are a bit tight at first, and wonder if you need to size up. but please don't! they loosen up considerably! they may have some uncomfortable spots at first when you walk, but keep at it and they will soften up considerably. do not be discouraged! these boots are worth the pain of the first week. they will serve you for years to come.
one final note: to get these boots on and off you should take the laces out of the first or even second set of holes. unlike hiking boots or the Iron Ranger, these boots do not have the hooks, but nevertheless, you will need the extra room to put them on and off. this slows things down a bit, which is perhaps not ideal, but i think the holes as opposed to hooks look a bit classier and streamlined.
61 of 65 people found the following review helpful
Let me start by saying that I shopped long and hard before settling on these boots. I hit junior high at the peak of the Doc Marten trend in the late 1990s and wanted something similar but more refined. Docs are too bulky, a little youngish for me, and they almost look too much like work boots. I'm in that intermediate phase between PhD student and professor and I've got to look the part! These boots are just right. They look great with jeans and khakis alike and the black cherry color gives them a little extra class that distinguishes them from the common work boot. Check out the "customer photos" I posted on this product page. It was pretty common in my boot search to find guys who just simply wanted to know how they looked with jeans, so I posted a few pictures with Levi 527s -- ordinary boot-cut jeans (not the hipster stuff you find on most of the style forums). The photos also show how the red really shines on the black cherry color (but not too much like the ugly burgundy dress shoes your dad used to wear).
The leather is absolutely top quality, unmatched by anything else I've seen in this price range. The only comparable leather I've seen was on a pair of boots I came across in a shoe store in Oxford, England, but they started at around 400 pounds ($800 at the time!). The leather in the toe and around the foot is really thick and stiff -- very durable stuff. The leather around the ankle is soft and supple, even when the boots are brand new. I didn't have any problems with the tongue cutting into my foot either: it seemed pretty soft from the start. With that said, the boots were a bear to break in. It took several days of pretty intensive walking around the city before they started to feel noticeably softer, but I managed to make it through without any blisters (always a plus!).
They also have a real leather midsole (the light-colored layer in the photo) and a low-profile rubber outsole with minimal tread. I like the look of the pure leather sole (as seen on the Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot), but it's just not practical. Leather soles are slippery as heck on nearly every surface and they're a nightmare if you happen to get them wet. The Gentleman Travelers have the best of both worlds. They almost look like a leather-soled boot but they have the functionality of rubber. If you're used to Docs or common work boots, the Gentleman Travelers will feel lower to the ground, but the heel is high enough that you still feel a little taller.
Now a little bit about the sizing. This is tricky with these boots, especially if you order them online without trying them in the store first (as I did). Most reviewers (both on Amazon and elsewhere) have said that you need to size down by half or a full size. Half is probably closer to the mark. A full size down seems a stretch. But let me recount what I did so that you can decide where you fall. I'm normally a size 9.5 but several of my shoes are 10. I wear Allen Edmonds dress shoes in a size 9D and they fit just right (though one reputable clothier measures me at a 10B -- erroneously, in my opinion). Given all of this, the correct size was probably 9 in the Gentleman Travelers: half a size down from my normal shoe size. But I wanted to put insoles in them. They come with a built-in leather insole but with little support. I'm a big fan of Super Feet and planned to use some with these boots. I ended up ordering the 9.5 with the hope that the insole would make half a size difference for the perfect fit. I was right. When they arrived, I tried them on as they came (with no insoles) and they were a little loose. Then I tried my Super Feet, the green color, and they were a little tight in the toe area. As it turns out, the light blue colored Super Feet are the same as the green but a little thinner: these were just the ticket. One more thing on sizing, though. They're a little sloppy in the heel. The first few times wearing them my heel rubbed pretty bad, but they seem to have gotten better over time, probably because the sole is loosening up and the leather around the ankle is forming to my foot. I think for most guys the larger heel area would be OK, though. I have skinny ankles that probably make the heel looser. I bought a pair of heel pads to snug them up a little but they've almost become unnecessary as the leather has softened.
Overall, I'm very pleased with these boots. I got them for a pretty good price (I think) at $247. If you can't find your size and color marked down like I did, go find some in a store, try them on, and come back later to see if yours get marked down. Probably worth the price even at $320, though. Great boot that will last a lifetime!
UPDATE AFTER A YEAR OF WEAR: I'm still wearing these boots on a weekly basis a year after buying them. All of the original problems have disappeared: heel-rubbing, stiff leather, sizing, etc. The leather does indeed form and stretch to your foot if you start out *slightly* snug (but not too tight). I would also say that the leather finish has held up very very well - I was concerned that the cherry polish would scratch or scuff away. They do, of course, get a few scuffs and scratches over time, but it hasn't changed the finish. The leather is dyed all the way through as all quality leathers are and therefore you cannot scratch away the cherry finish. Overall I'm still as pleased with them today as when I got them over a year ago. Get compliments all the time, too.
28 of 31 people found the following review helpful
on March 23, 2011
I am a journalist who works in varied situations around the world and was looking for a tough boot with a classic look. I fell in love with these on line and ordered. I've had them 6 months and am largely happy.
A few notes: They run long and narrow. I bought a 9.5, which is a bit too long, but even that size was so narrow I had a hard time getting my not-very-wide foot in at first. It is now fine, but only after a month-long, blister-studded break-in and only if I wear really heavy socks to keep my foot from sliding forward and back.
(BTW, the best advice anyone can give you is to go to a Red Wing store with the socks you expect to wear and try on different sizes and styles until you feel the clouds part and the good Lord's sun shine down upon you because you've found the boots of your destiny. That'll help you more than reading hundreds of reviews.)
Also, the insoles are hard and provide no cushion. They do mold to your feet over time, sort of like Birkenstocks (though not THAT comfortable), which makes walking and standing for long periods fine. I wouldn't want to run in them, though. For $300, you'd think Red Wing could add a little cushion.
Last bit for those wanting a dressier boot: Since the Amber leather got scuffed, I have had an impossible time getting the color back. Oil and polish on the scuffed leather turn it a darker color than the non-scuffed bits. I've tried all sorts of polishes and can't get the scuffed toes to match the rest of the boot; the dark patches make them look trashier, in my opinion. If I could do it again, I'd go for a darker color.
I recently bought a pair of Iron Rangers, which I wear much more. They are lighter, break in quicker and fit my foot better, though they don't seem as sturdy as the Beckmans. Both are great boots in the end, depending on what you're looking for.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
on November 11, 2012
I'm not quite sure what people are talking about when they complain about breaking in these boots. If these boots make you say "ouch" when you first put them on, they are not going to get much better. If you are getting blisters they are not going to get much better. If you need to do all kinds of voodoo in order to "break them in" they are not going to get much better. I suppose if you haven't ever worn a top grain leather boot or shoe you may find them too stiff to wear all day but any and all top grain leather takes time to mold to it's surroundings and is a little stiff at first but should not be painful to the point of blisters and "ouch". That is part of the beauty of these boots. There is the "getting to know them" period that you will remember 20 years from now when you put them on. If you are not wanting that experience, buy some inexpensive Walmart boots and just replace them once a year. Nothing wrong with that. We've become accustomed to shoes that are super comfortable right out of the box, genuine leather shoes instead of top grain leather and many materials that are anything but "natural" so many of us complain when there is a "break in" with shoes but if you want to experience good, old fashioned footwear, try on a pair of Red Wing Beckman boots. My advice is that if they give you blisters or are too painful to wear, return them. You have an ill fitting pair.
I was able to wear them without complaints straight out of the box. As soon as I put them on for the first time I realized that they were only going to get better as time passed. Maybe a little stretching along the instep.... a little softening of the insole and collar, the outer sole should bend more with time.....but not much more. If you are getting horrible pain and blisters, just as with any other type of footwear, it means you have a bad fitting boot that may or may not get better but will never be very comfortable. I see it along the same lines as a good, thick, top grain leather jacket. The more you wear it, the more comfortable it's going to be but if your first impression when trying it on for the first time is, "Ouch", you are not going to ever enjoy it.
They seem to run consistently a half size bigger than normal so buying a half size down is recommended. I have no idea why a company like Red Wing would make this boot half a size wrong but they do. It would be nice if they at least advertised the fact that you should purchase a half size smaller than your regular size but if you've read any reviews at all, you'll know to buy a half size down.
I've owned many Red Wing boots and shoes and these are right up there in quality as the first pair I purchased in 1985 (which I still have and regularly wear). These boots are definitely high quality and well made. Stitching is exactly as it should be. Leather is flawless. You can even smell that cobbler's shop aroma when you open the box. Highly recommended for those that appreciate old fashioned workmanship and durability.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
on July 23, 2013
These boots look great. It's a good thing that they do, because in the darkest hours of the break-in process, admiring my beautiful boots gave me the courage to persevere.
I purchased the Beckman style 9016 Cigar. I wear them for a business-casual look with dark indigo jeans. As viewed from the side, I love the look of the "sandwich" of the dyed leather welt, the light leather midsole, and the black outsole.
I have a narrow foot. I am size 9C in most dress shoes, but I can fit into 8 1/2D if there is enough room for my toes.
I was looking for a dressy work boot with traditional (Goodyear welt) construction. I walk at least 5 miles per day, and I can wear out a pair of ordinary athletic shoes in a few months. So it was important to me to have a boot that could be easily reheeled and resoled at my local shoe repair store. My research led me to Wolverine 1000 Mile, Alden Indy, and Red Wing Beckman as high quality boots of this type.
First I tried on the Wolverines. In size 8 1/2 they were too wide, and size 8 were too short. So no go on those.
Next I tried Alden Indy. I have a pair of Alden All Weather Walkers, size 8 1/2C that I love, so I was optimistic about the Indys fitting me, especially since they come in C width. Unfortunately Alden makes the Indy using a different last than the All Weather Walker, and the fit is much different. The Indy 8 1/2C was too wide, and 8C was too short. Indys are made in 8 1/2B, which I think would have fit me perfectly. Unfortunately that size was out of stock in the factory, which meant I would have had to wait a few months for them to be made.
Finally, I tried the Beckmans. I live in San Francisco, and there is no Red Wing store here, but there are some Men's clothing boutiques that carry Red Wing Heritage, so I was able to try them on. Like others have reported, these shoes run very large. Size 7 1/2 fit me well. The toe box in these boots is huge, so I was able to size down for my narrow feet, and still have plenty of room for my toes. When trying on the boots, I wore thin dress socks, and my feet felt very comfortable in the foot bed. With the laces tied loosely, I could walk comfortably, and my heel stayed well anchored. So I took them home, and started the break-in process.
The biggest break-in problem for me was the tongue of the boot. It is attached to the sides, all the way to the top, and it folds over on itself. The folds on the inner sides of the boots are directly over my ankles. The pressure there caused a lot of pain when walking, and I could only wear the boots for short periods of time, or when I was sitting down. Some reviewers solved this problem by cutting away the folds, but I didn't want to destroy the integrity of my boots.
After a couple of days of part-time wear, the boots loosened up a bit and I tried wearing a thicker sock. I switched from thin dress socks to Merino wool light hiking socks. These provided enough cushioning over my ankles that I could keep the boots on all day, which greatly accelerated the break-in process. The ankle pain was reduced to a noticeable pressure. Every day before putting the boots on, I put a bit of Red Wing Leather Conditioner on the parts of the uppers and tongues that were over my ankles, and used my fingers to stretch the leather out. I think this helped a bit.
After 5 full days of wear, the ankle pressure went away, and the boots started to feel very comfortable. After 10 full days of wear, the break-in process felt complete. These boots are now as comfortable as my Alden All Weather Walkers, and the extra support of the boot's collar feels great when walking up and down the steep hills in San Francisco. I am continuing to wear the wool light hiking socks with my boots.
I've now worn these boots about 20 full days, for well over 100 miles of walking on city streets. There is a slight bit of wear visible at the rear of the heel, but there are no signs of wear on the outsole. I expect these boots to last several months before they need any repairs.
I am not using any insoles, orthotics, or inserts, and I don't think any are necessary. I disagree with those reviewers who found the footbed to be completely flat. There is a moderate amount of arch support when the boots are brand new, which increases as the boots break in and the leather insole moulds to the contours of the bottom of your foot. If you are used to athletic shoes with lots of arch support, the fit might take some getting used to, and you might want to try an insole. If you are used to other shoes made with traditional construction, you will not feel any need for an insole.
Unlike some other reviewers, I love the waxed laces that come with these boots. As I tighten the laces from bottom to top, the waxiness keeps the laces in the lower eyelets in position really well.
I love these boots, and expect them to last for many years. However, In addition to the brutal break-in process, I have some other issues, which is why I only gave them 4 stars:
1. The shiny leather around the toe scuffs very easily. Fortunately, a bit of shoe cream makes the boots look brand new again. I have Meltonian shoe cream in both Brown and Burgundy. The Brown isn't quite red enough, and the Burgundy is a bit too red, but either blend in perfectly with the original leather finish when removing scuffs. I alternate between the two colors.
2. The use of eyelets instead of hooks at the top makes the boots difficult to put on and take off. I have to remove the laces from the top pair of eyelets. I got a 24" long shoe horn which makes putting the boots on a bit easier.
3. The unfinished leather interior bleeds on to my socks when my feet perspire. The good news is that there is no inner liner to wear out.
Give these boots a try. Have some patience; the pain of break in is well worth the end result.
******* Update Feb. 2014 *******
After 7 months of wear, I've now walked about 1000 miles in these boots. The heels are noticeably worn, but they still have lots of life left in them. The outsoles still look brand new. I've gotten a lot of scrapes and scuffs on these boots, but I've been touching them up with shoe cream, and using Red Wing's paste leather conditioner every couple of months, and the boots look close to new condition. These boots should last forever; I fully expect them to outlive me!
What I hate the most about them is the difficulty of lacing them up. I sure wish Red Wing had used hooks instead of eyelets. Lacing them up tight is a major project.
Last September, my local Alden Shop got in Indy #405 boots in my size 8 1/2 B. They fit me perfectly. However, I don't like the industrial work boot leather style of the #405. So I did a special order of Alden #403, which is darker brown Chromexcel leather in 8 1/2 B. They finally arrived a couple of weeks ago. They are more comfortable than the Beckmans, and no break in was required. Lacing them up is a piece of cake with the speed hooks. However, I still prefer the look of the Beckmans, so I am keeping both boots in my rotation.
If your budget can afford it, I would recommend you try on the Indys. But you can't beat the quality of the Beckmans at 2/3 the price of the Indys.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
on July 21, 2013
I've had these boots (in black) for a few weeks now. I initially received a pair several weeks back in what I thought was my size based on a pair I tried on at a local boutique but had to exchange those for a pair half a size larger. I don't know why there was a discrepancy in fit--I imagine the boots I tried on in the store had been tried on so often by others that they'd already stretched out a bit--but the new ones I received from amazon were uncomfortably small and since I intended to use them with some kind of inserts I figured I would need some extra room beyond what would be afforded after the leather stretched out some. The exchange process was completely painless (print out a label, head down to a UPS store, done) and the replacement shoes arrived before I knew it. So now I have a roomier size and I get to breaking them in immediately. According to Red Wing's site the leather doesn't need conditioning like with some of their other boots, just a buff with some polish if you want to get em shiny again. The leather looks good upon first inspection and the stitching strong. They're handsome boots overall but I was in such a hurry to get them on and break them in that I didn't notice that my pair don't match exactly. The two tan layers of leather on the outsole of the boot are distinctly layered in one boot but the colors blend together in the other boot. I don't think it's something anyone notices unless one points it out but now that I have noticed it it bugs me and kinda bums me out, especially for the price one pays for these.
Now, the most negative aspect of these boots isn't visual but is their initial comfort. I know boots like these are going to be a bit of a pain to break in but these are the most painful things I've ever had the misfortune of wearing. It's due to where the tongue seam is. Where the top of the tongue stitches to the rest of the boot there is a fold in the leather. That bulk of leather digs right into some nerve in my ankle and after a few minutes of walking becomes unbearable. I had to stop and undo the laces at a bus stop and let the pain pass before I could continue hobbling back home. Eventually, I started folding the tongue over to the right so that seam wouldn't dig into that particular spot. My ankle hurt for two days after anyway. So, I can't wear these normally. Another aspect of the fit that is a little off is at the base of the laces, closest to the toe of the boot. It is extremely tight in this area of the seam, even with the laces undone. As I mentioned, I hoped to use these with an insert to offer some kind of arch support as there is none whatsoever as the boot is, but I would have to use an insert that doesn't extend past the arch as this tight seam allows no room for it even though the other areas of the boot do.
I imagine the boots will be durable and I'm hoping they'll stand up to some rain and puddles when the time comes. They do feel exceptionally sturdy for what could almost pass as a dress boot in some situations (it's a bit of a stretch to say that.) The overall appearance and the supposed longevity of the boot makes me hopeful that in the end they'll be worth what one pays for these but they haven't been a bed of roses so far.
12 of 15 people found the following review helpful
on December 20, 2012
Bought these a couple of years ago. I wore them a lot. I loved the way they looked and hoped their stiffness and under foot brutality would pass as they broke in. Well, they look broken in now, but are almost as uncomfortable as when they were new. Granted the tongue gusset no longer pains my ankles (I cut it off), and the toe box now bends when I take a step, but the bottoms of my feet can no longer take how hard these things are under foot. If you can't get a good pair of insoles in these, I wouldn't recommend them at all, so make sure an insole will fit. Mine don't have enough space for good insoles and I'm screwed. If you are walking from your house to your car, and from your car to a restaurant table they're great. If you are a pedestrian commuter (in NYC for example), you are going to have to work at making these comfortable. I'm probably going to double down and get them resoled and stretched, see if that makes them wearable. I truly hope so. So, to summarize, they're very cool looking boots that seem well made but they are not comfortable without modification and/or insoles.
One more thing. These are not good for foul wet weather. I found they leaked easily in the instep, even with repeated application of waterproofing. Not surprising as they are really more for fashion than function.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
on October 6, 2013
The number one thing that I would recommend is to size a full size down and a 1/2 size down from your regular size at an absolute minimum. Please consider that I didn't add insoles to the existing built-in leather insole. I wear a 12 in tennis shoes and other boots, but an 11 fit perfect for these boots, 11 1/2 was still too big.
I am big on anything that I can find made in America these days. I first saw these boots at the Filson (a fine company that makes US made clothing, geared towards outdoors) store in Seattle. They are beautiful, classic boots with a very sturdy construction.
These boots were already fairly broken in after two weeks. I don't feel that these boots are uncomfortable at all, not even really during the break in period. They actually seem comfortable to me and are getting better the more I wear them. I feel like the only reason a person would have problems is if they ordered the wrong size or maybe if they have extra wide feet.
The leather insole which lies upon cork will mold to your foot over time giving you a custom fit. The insoles are rather firm, but I actually like them. But, I am 21 and this may bother some older people that aren't used to leather insoles in footwear, I don't know.
I thought long and hard about these boots and wolverine's 1000 miles. I don't think that a person could go wrong with either, but considering these boots have a 4.6 amazon rating rather that the 4.2 1000 mile amazon customer rating I was leaning towards these. I had a chance to check both of them out and try both of them on. The redwings are slightly stiffer at first, but they do have a rubber sole on top of the leather sole unlike the wolverines which is no doubt a must have in the North West. I liked the leather quality and overall construction of the redwings over the wolverines, but that's my opinion of course. The Red Wings are also cheaper, which suprised me. I've had Redwing pull-on work boots for over 2 years and they've been outstanding. The redwing store will oil any boot that is redwing for free if you bring it in. They will also send the boot back to the original factory were they were made and have a new original sole put back on and another cork layer for a fee of course. Red Wing's boots (the ones that are made in America) are nothing short of excellent in my experience.
You can't go wrong with these boots, but please remember to order 1 size down from your regular tennis shoe size.
8 of 10 people found the following review helpful
on January 29, 2011
These are nice boots. Well made is an understatement. I have a pair of Red Wing 926s and several pairs of Irish Setters to work in and wear around the house and shop, but this is a different matter and truly an old-fashioned, classy shoe suitable for city use. Superb styling and design and the best materials--also US made. These boots look like they came off a cobbler's bench: they are the real deal. They do, as others have suggested, run a little large, as they have no padding and a leather insole that is not removable. I'd say order your normal size if you want to add SuperFeet, Red Wing moldable insoles, etc; otherwise, order a half size down. This is one of those cases where the price, though a little steep, is right, particularly considering some of the foreign-made junk at the $200 range.
5 of 6 people found the following review helpful
on December 9, 2012
No RW store had this shoes for me to try. So I spent hours and days reading reviews and finally bought this. So here are my 2 cents.
1) color: love the color. This is not burgandy or cheap looking redish color. It's like dark brown with hint of red. Beautiful color. If you ever get it scratched, you can apply RW burgandy shoe cream and it disappears. No worries there.
2) shape & style: classic with little bulge tip, but not goofy looking at all. Nice slender (some calls it long), but make it look very streamlined. Nothing bulky, simply elegant with ready to hit the dirt kind of attitude.
3) size: go half size smaller. Read almost all comments regarding the size, trust me... save yourself a trouble and go half size smaller. It is little narrow, but will stretch out.
4) break-in: Yes, it will be uncomfortable. I don't recommend putting mink oil. Yes, it will stretch out easier and make break-in period less painful, but mink oil is not recommended on this boots. Just toughen out for couple days. It will be worth it.
5) insole: no traditional cushion insole here. Just a leather bottom. Yes, it's hard, but will mold to your fit especially around your heel and ball area. Weird fact, I walked 7 hours after break-in. I didn't feel much of discomfort. In fact, it felt better than the ones with cushioned boots. Weird.... I thought about buying a insole but I will skip it until it is absolutely necessary.
6) durability: here are my cons. Sole is 3 ply leather and 1 ply rubber. This is my second pair of RW Beckman and they both show the split between the leather ply. Nothing serious, but it is still $340 boot. Leather is fantastic. It looks and feels better as it age, but still.. the leather sole splitting...