Rice as Self: Japanese Identities through Time (Princeton Paperbacks) [Paperback]

Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: November 14, 1994 | ISBN-10: 0691021104 | ISBN-13: 978-0691021102

Are we what we eat? What does food reveal about how we live and how we think of ourselves in relation to others? Why do people have a strong attachment to their own cuisine and an aversion to the foodways of others? In this engaging account of the crucial significance rice has for the Japanese, Rice as Self examines how people use the metaphor of a principal food in conceptualizing themselves in relation to other peoples. Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney traces the changing contours that the Japanese notion of the self has taken as different historical Others--whether Chinese or Westerner--have emerged, and shows how rice and rice paddies have served as the vehicle for this deliberation. Using Japan as an example, she proposes a new cross-cultural model for the interpretation of the self and other.

Editorial Reviews

Review

As in [Ohnuki-Tierney's] Monkey as Mirror, where she follows her metaphor deep into the prejudices of Japanese society, so she here finds that rice has been given a major role in historical formulation of the idea of self. . . . Beautifully, even elegantly, presented. . . . An important volume which traces this chosen means of identity and makes understandable the various anomalies that it would seem to have occasioned. -- Donald Richie, The Japan Times

An important and timely book on the Japanese sense of self and the link to the sacredness of rice agriculture. -- Drew Gerstle, The Times Higher Education Supplement

From the Back Cover

"This is a fascinating analysis of the meaning of rice as a symbol of personal and particularly of social identity in Japanese culture."--Robert N. Bellah

"Ohnuki-Tierney usefully explodes the notion of Japanese cultural homogeneity while explaining why the idea of homogeinity and distinctness, symbolized so vividly in Japanese rice, has come to play such a significant cultural role."--Robert N. Bellah, University of California, Berkeley

Product Details

• Paperback: 198 pages
• Publisher: Princeton University Press (November 14, 1994)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0691021104
• ISBN-13: 978-0691021102
• Product Dimensions: 9.4 x 6.1 x 0.5 inches
• Shipping Weight: 10.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #961,504 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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4 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Grains of truth, some of it unpalatable, November 27, 2006

By 

Harry Eagar (Maui) - See all my reviews
(VINE VOICE)    (REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Rice as Self: Japanese Identities through Time (Princeton Paperbacks) (Paperback)

Not one American in 10,000 has any connection with growing or selling rice, so the pressure of the American government to open up Japan to our rice stands as the most bizarre of all the weird legacies of Reaganomics.

Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney, professor of anthropology at the University of Wisconsin, believes the rice trade had assumed (at the time this book was published, in 1993) a symbolic importance to American policymakers. Perhaps so, although they speak as if the question is substantial.

However, 'Rice as Self' is not about America's dangerous delusions about rice. It is about Japanese attitudes toward the grain, and it turns out they are in some ways deluded as well, though harmlessly so.

'A people's cuisine, or a particular food, often marks the boundary between the collective self and the other, for example, as a basis of discrimination against other people,' writes Ohnuki-Tierney, who was born in Japan and has investigated 'others' there, such as the Ainu.

In America, we are often told that rice is so basic to Japanese ways that the words for breakfast and dinner translate literally as 'morning rice' and 'evening rice.' But Ohnuki-Tierney says this centrality is more psychic than physical. There is an intellectual dispute in Japan about whether rice was ever the staple food there. The common people may have been more dependent on millet or, later, sweet potatoes.

But there is no denying the importance of rice to Japanese ways of thinking. Rice is not 'self' the way Hawaiians regard themselves as interchangable with kalo (taro, the elder brother of the first Hawaiian), but it was a gift from the gods. It has a soul, is the 'purest' form of payment and may also be equivalent to semen.

Even if you are what you eat, this is a heavy load of symbolism for a food to carry. And it retains its symbolic force, says Ohnuki-Tierney, though 'scarcely any contemporary Japanese would hold . . . that rice has a soul or that rice is a deity.'

Paradoxically, 'the symbolism of rice has remained more important for the Japanese people than rice agriculture itself.' As affluence has increased, the Japanese have eaten less and less rice, preferring to fill up on what used to be side dishes of vegetables, fish and flesh. (In Hawaii, the 'two-scoop rice' of the old-time okazu-ya [cafeteria] lunch has in recent years been reduced, usually, to just one scoop.)

At the same time, they have become even fussier about their rice, specializing in the grain grown in the northeastern prefectures. Production, however, is very low. Ohnuki-Tierney says 10 million kilos a year, a misprint for 10 million tons. Still, that is only half a pound a day per person, not an enormous amount. (In another place, she gives consumption as 72 kilograms per person per year, which matches the correct production figure.)

The paradoxes keep piling up. Though Japan fiercely protects its rice agriculture, it produces less of its food than any other nation -- 49 percernt in 1988. The United States supplies most of the deficit. (A situation changing in favor of Southeast Asia since this book was completed.)

Here on Maui, rice is free -- the price of 20 cents a pound is less than it costs to ship it in. In Japan, people pay about eight times what Americans Mainlanders pay for rice.They tell interviewers that they can easily afford expensive rice, since they eat so little of it.

'Rice as Self' demonstrates that almost everything about the link between rice and Japanese people contains paradox, although their conception of paddies as the most beautiful and significant landscape -- 'our land' -- may be somewhat less in conflict with reality than the other functions of rice.

In any case, modernity is slowly changing the relationship of Japanese to rice, Ohnuki-Tierney indicates. Her book certainly challenges many glib assumptions about 'Japanese character' that have been pushed in the USA. And for AJAs (Americans of Japanese ancestry), 'Rice as Self' has additional piquance.

Ohnuki-Tierney's persuasive book deserves a much wider readership than anthropological monographs usually get.