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Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms
 
 
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Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms [Hardcover]

Nicolette Hahn Niman (Author)
5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (19 customer reviews)

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Book Description

February 17, 2009

When Robert F. Kennedy, Jr., first asked Nicolette Hahn Niman to head up his environmental organization's "hog campaign," she balked. Investigating hog manure pollution was hardly the glamorous assignment she pictured when leaving everything to work for him in New York. But Kennedy, she discovered, is not a man who takes no for an answer.

Thus began Niman's fascinating odyssey into the inner workings of the "factory farm" industry and her transformation into an intrepid environmental lawyer who goes up against the big business farming establishment and—unexpectedly—finds love along the way.

Starting her work for Kennedy's organization in North Carolina, Niman uncovers the shocking practices of hog factory farms, including inhumane animal confinement and devastating water and air pollution. She organizes a national reform movement to fight these practices and shows again and again that livestock farming can be done in a better way—not only for hogs, but also for poultry, fish, and dairy cows.

Through Niman's work, she also tours the best of farms, where traditional farmers and ranchers treat their animals humanely and have joined with other farmers to successfully market the foods they produce. She profiles the innovative and cost-effective methods these operations have incorporated to make a profit by ethical, sustainable means.

Along the way, the story takes a surprising turn when Nicolette is swept off her feet by a high-profile cattle rancher. At first, they seem an unlikely pair: Nicolette, a thirty-something, urban, East Coast, vegetarian attorney, and Bill Niman, an older, West Coast, cowboy type. But they share a passion for raising animals with kindness, and she soon finds herself transitioning to ranching life at the famed Niman Ranch in Northern California.

In telling her story, Niman details not only why to choose meat, poultry, dairy, eggs, and fish from traditionally farmed sources (and avoid products tainted by chemicals and antibiotic-resistant bacteria), but also how to do so. She reveals what to look for on labels, why to skip animal products from outside the United States, and what questions to ask when eating out.

A searing account of an industry gone awry and one woman's passionate fight to remedy it, Righteous Porkchop is a must-read for anyone who cares about food sources or good eating.

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Editorial Reviews

From Booklist

For the past several centuries, the watchword of American industry has been standardization. Everything must be uniform and orderly, parts interchangeable. This urge to trim production costs eventually invaded agriculture, even animal husbandry. The result was chicken and hog farms where animals never saw the light of day and grew fat on drug- and hormone-laden feed. Lately, many writers have cautioned that huge industrial farms create as many problems as they solve. There are issues of animal disease, waste disposal, and inferior meat, let alone concerns of animal welfare advocates. Niman outlines all of these matters, documenting them carefully. She cites some recent studies that indicate that hidden costs of industrial farming actually make meat more expensive when environmental cleanup costs are factored into the equation. Attorney Niman chronicles her personal mission to enlighten the world of industrial agriculture, an odyssey that culminated in her marriage to one of the nation’s most noted sustainable ranchers. --Mark Knoblauch

Review

“A thoughtful and affecting memoir... Righteous Porkchop firmly establishes Hahn Niman as a major national voice for efforts to reform industrial animal production.” (Marion Nestle, professor, New York University and author, Food Politics and What to Eat )

“A portrait of animal farming, from the small-scale to the mega-scale, that’s as notable for its clarity as it is for its vision. Required reading for anyone who eats.” (Dan Barber, chef and co-owner of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns )

“When Nicolette Hahn Niman became a cattle rancher, she discovered that when animals are given a life worth living, they can be raised for food in an ethical and sustainable manner.” (Temple Grandin, professor, Colorado State University and author of Animals in Translation )

“Nicolette Hahn Niman is the smiling face of conscientious eating—righteous, but never self-righteous. With warmth and an engaging plainspokeness, she persuasively makes the case that activism bears results, that humane farmers are happier farmers, and that ‘compassionate carnivore’ is not an oxymoron.” (David Kamp, author of The United States of Arugula )

“Righteous Porkchop is a compelling call for overhauling the way we produce food from one the nation’s most credible advocates. It’s also a great read. I highly recommend it.” (Matthew Scully, author of Dominion: The Power of Man, the Suffering of Animals and the Call to Mercy )

“The story that Nicolette Hahn Niman tells in this book is full of heroes and villains (of the two footed kind). Food lovers can only hope that America takes her message to heart and votes at the check-out counter.” (Peter Kaminsky, author of Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine )

“Righteous Porkchop is a searing, and utterly convincing, indictment of modern meat production. The book also brims with hope and charts a practical (and even beautiful) path out of the jungle.” (Michael Pollan, author of Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food )

“The fact is, most of us are hypocrites when it comes to food.... Fortunately for people like us there’s Nicolette Hahn Niman, a generally sane and sympathetic character, pushing us gently but firmly in a direction we know we should already be heading.” (San Francisco Chronicle )

“This necessary book—part memoir, part exposé—may briefly put you off your feed, but its reasoned case for healthy and humane farming practices has the sweet savor of truth.” (O magazine )

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 336 pages
  • Publisher: William Morrow (February 17, 2009)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0061466492
  • ISBN-13: 978-0061466496
  • Product Dimensions: 8.7 x 6 x 1.2 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 15.2 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (19 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #374,694 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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25 of 29 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars "...it is immoral to bring animals into the world and then keep them in a way that they know only suffering.", March 8, 2009
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This review is from: Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms (Hardcover)
After reading Nicolette Hahn Niman's reporting on conditions under which pigs, chickens, dairy cows and other cattle, and even farmed fish are kept before ending up on our dinner tables, one can hardly be other than in fervent accord with her statement above. Niman faithfully describes the artificial, often terribly cramped containment pens or cages that crowd thousands of pigs, cattle, or laying hens together. Often the animals never see the outdoors, never breathe anything but the stink of their own waste, never get to raise their own offspring, and never even get a meal that isn't laced heavily with harmful drugs and blood and excrement from other animals. And sometimes they die barbarically.

Raising stock this way is excused by agribusiness as necessary to maximize economies of scale and profits. But the author of Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms systematically shoots down these flimsy justifications. For example, she points to studies that show the high investments needed to undertake and maintain these huge confinement facilities generally lead to a revolving debt operation, whereas farmers with a more natural and smaller operation can outperform on a dollar in / dollar out basis. Also, the pollution produced per animal is far greater in confinement plants (and they are plants, rather than farms). Animal manure from thousands of head run off into water channels, liquefy, and pool into big lagoons. This form of animal waste gives off ammonia, methane, and other gases that shouldn't be in our air. Not to mention -- again -- the horrific odor that wafts for miles.

Niman furnishes as many facts as possible about the widespread conditions in industrial animal production. But RIGHTEOUS PORKCHOP isn't simply a dry recitation of statistics. Niman is telling her own story: how, as a fledgling lawyer, she worked for Bobby Kennedy Jr. to gather first-hand evidence for environmental lawsuits against confinement agriculture for polluting waterways with liquefied waste. How in the course of things, she met rancher and entrepreneur Bill Niman and in time married him. How she moved from New York to northern California and learned the ins and outs of ranching. How she and her husband do their utmost to let their cattle and other animals live as natural a life as possible. How she searches for outlets where she can buy food for the Niman table that is grown or raised on family farms where "organic" and "natural" aren't just buzzwords.

Niman presents a well-researched case for the pressing need to change the way our meat supply is managed from insemination to slaughter. She emphasizes that a failure to do so will endanger the future survival of these animals and the whole food chain including us. But she is realistic too and suggests that the best action each individual can take is to stop buying from these meat/poultry/dairy/fish producers. Perhaps her most practical chapter is "Finding the Right Foods," in which she gives specific advice and information about how to find healthful pork, beef, milk, cheese, fish, etc. from farms that treat their animals well.

RIGHTEOUS PORKCHOP (by the way, amusingly, the title doesn't merely refer to pigs) is a book everyone should read and then use as a springboard for concrete action. Domesticated animals are not people, but that doesn't excuse cruelty or soullessness toward them. (4.5 stars)
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10 of 10 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Best book yet on industrial food, July 11, 2009
This review is from: Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms (Hardcover)
I've read many, if not most, of the major books about the industrialization of our food supply and I think Righteous Porkchop is the best one yet. It's well written and engaging but at the same time it's loaded with fascinating facts and information. With close to 300 notes at the end of the book, the research done for this book is unmatched. But what is especially unique about the book is that it is written as a memoir, so the story line propels the reader forward from start to finish. I consider Righteous Porkchop a book that everyone should read to learn about where their food comes from and how it's produced.
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16 of 18 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Open that door and take a long, hard look..., December 15, 2009
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This review is from: Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms (Hardcover)
For many years, I thought I had been doing the right thing, eating the right foods and watching out for my health. I thought I was an environmentalist, caring about the preservation and good stewardship of the natural world we live in.

Holy cow, was I wrong.

Some time ago, I was reading another good book about human behavior, and what is required for us to behave against our own values. Compartmentalization was a concept I came to understand is absolutely necessary for most of us to act in ways that are not in accordance to our own values. To do wrong, we must push out of our awareness the realization of consequences to our actions. We must stuff things into a locked away place and live in denial.

Picture the mind as a house with many rooms, each with a door. Well, there was this room in my mind ... and it had a door, and I had firmly closed it. Inside that room was a vague realization that animal abuse was happening in order to put food on my plate. Gee, I love that steak, that juicy burger, that slab of bacon! Did I really want to know how it got there?

Now I know. The door to that room is wide open, and I have no intention of closing it again. Once most of us are aware, most of us do change our behavior. Most of us, when you get down to it, are pretty nice people. Most of us want to do the right thing and we love our pets, we love the natural world around us, and we care to preserve it.

So how is it that our supermarkets are filled with food produced in food factories, by an industrialized form of agriculture that is fast ruining our environment and obliterating a type of lifestyle many of us find admirable? How is it that we tolerate the cruelest forms of animal abuse imaginable? And consider this: we don't have to. We can still enjoy that steak, sizzle that bacon, and chow down on that juicy burger. Yes, we can have our delicious porkchop and eat it, too.

The person breaking down my denial door is author Nicolette Hahn Niman. Assigned to write a story about food production and food activism for the Kalamazoo College alumni magazine, I introduced myself to Nicolette when she (an alumnae) visited the college campus. She was talking to a rapt audience about her new book, Righteous Porkchop. Slides illustrating her experiences as a food activist working for Bobby Kennedy, Jr. added images to her words, and I'm pretty sure I could hear doors flying open throughout that room.

Niman had grown up in Kalamazoo, Michigan, majored in biology at Kalamazoo College, and had been raised in a family that shopped for local foods before it was something of a fad (a good one) to do so. By the time she was an adult, she was a vegetarian, and she considered herself pretty safe in thinking she was not participating in livestock abuse. But wait. She was still enjoying dairy products. She was still eating eggs and cheese. She still had an occasional meal of fish.

And me? I've been eating skinless chicken breasts that I purchased at the supermarket in frozen bags, along with salmon fillets, and only the occasional chunk of red meat. That's good, right?

Wrong.

Niman's wake up call was when she heard Bobby Kennedy, Jr. speak in Kalamazoo. That talk led to a meeting that led to a job offer. Nicolette was offered a job to work for Kennedy as a food activist. She would have to know a lot about pigs and a lot about, well, pig poop. Dream job? Turns out, it was. Nicolette had some political savvy already, having served as a city commissioner in Kalamazoo, but now she was traveling the country investigating industrialized food production.

In his foreword to Niman's book, Kennedy writes: "The waste from hog factories is prodigious. A hog facility with 100,000 animals can produce the same amount of fecal waste as a city of one million people... Waste from these factories can contain a witch's brew of nearly 400 dangerous substances--including heavy metals, antibiotics, biocides, chemical disinfectants, pesticides and disease-causing viruses and microbes."

A necessary evil? You may be thinking ... jobs in a lousy economy, maybe?

Kennedy writes: "Each pig factory puts family farmers out of business, replacing high-quality agricultural jobs with hourly-wage workers in degrading positions that are among the lowest paid and most dangerous in the United States. Because the animals are fed and watered by computer and are given almost no husbandry, as few as two workers may tend an operation with ten thousand pigs. Conditions are so miserable that employees seldom endure these jobs for more than a few months. Major slaughterhouses, including those owned by Smithfield, typically have a 100 percent annual employee turnover rate."

But surely that nagging global problem of hunger?

Niman writes: "Global food production has actually outpaced population growth. Every year the world produces enough wheat, rice, and other grains to provide 4.3 pounds of food per person per day (including two and a half pounds of grain, beans, and nuts, a pound of fruits and vegetables, and nearly a pound of meat, milk, and eggs.) Moreover, in the last four decades, per capita food production has grown 16 percent faster than the world's population, meaning there is now more food per person available on the planet than ever before in history. Clearly, abundance is not an issue."

I'm hearing a chorus of belches at the buffet table by now, but it is coming from only one side of the table. Niman is right. We have only to look around at our epidemic of obesity to realize the table has a shorter leg on one side, all the food sliding into one set of mouths at one end of the table, while the other end is left high and dry. It is not about abundance; it is about distribution. Hunger is about poverty. If people have the resources and the means with which to purchase or grow their own food, they will not go hungry. This call is to focus our efforts where they belong--on eliminating poverty.

So let's get back to what are the real issues at hand: the ills of industrialized food production. And I choose the word "ill" with multiple purpose. To read Niman's account, the results of her nationwide research, in-person visits to food factories and feedlots and slaughterhouses is enough to make you ill. And it should. And it does. Because the abusive conditions of these great numbers of confined animals, purposefully (and don't doubt that purpose, just think "out of sight, out of mind") kept behind closed doors where most of us will never see what is really going on, is also making the animals ill. Living creatures, no matter what kind, need a few basics to survive and thrive: fresh air, exercise, good food. Subtract all of these, as industrialized food production does, and you have to substitute growth hormones, antibiotics, tranquilizers, steroids, and a host of other drugs just to keep these animals alive.

I stopped eating veal decades ago. All it took was seeing one photograph. That photograph appeared in Time magazine, and I can see it vividly in my mind still. It is a black and white photograph of a tiny newborn calf, standing wobbly and great-eyed in a wooden crate which prevented any and all movement. That crate prevents movement because people like tender meat. That is, meat without muscle. Get the picture? To prevent any movement that might develop muscle, that baby animal is crated for all its living days so that you can eat a tender piece of veal.

I was an easy convert. I already had one foot in the crate, or out of it. But Niman's book led me into the immense metal barracks that hold battery cages of thousands upon thousands of chickens, the cages that hold pigs until they start to wave their heads back and forth and chew the air in what are visible signs of an animal going mad. Niman took me into the feedlot and the slaughterhouse, to realize that a disturbing number of animals are actually dismembered and gutted while still alive and fully conscious. Niman made me understand that we so little value the life of the chicken that after one year of holding these hens, their beaks cut off to prevent pecking each other out of stress, in cages so small that they cannot even turn around, that once they are considered "layed out," they are sucked up into immense vacuums and dumped into bins with rotor blades to chop them up into mincemeat. Mind you, still alive. It's enough to make me put that drumstick down.

And this is necessary .... why?

Which is Niman's point. It is not only not necessary, it is, in fact, detrimental. This kind of food production is detrimental to animals, detrimental to human beings, detrimental to the environment. Wastes from confined animals end up in lagoons of liquefied manure that are often pumped into our water sources or allowed to seep into soil (the author writes about her helicopter adventures flying over these lagoons as food factory workers illegaly flush them into nearby rivers).

If you thought manure was a terrific fertilizer, you are right. But not in these incredible quantities. On traditional farms--those that we still try to sell to our children while singing ditties about Ol' MacDonald had a farm--manure happens naturally, in quantities that can be used in soil to grow crops, and with the addition of sunshine, killing harmful bacteria. There's a whole process there that works beautifully before we start super-sizing it and messing with it.

Instead, we have Mad Cow disease, and microbes flowing into streams and rivers and lakes. We have salmonella. We have noxious gasses that have been increasingly connected to a long list of ailments in anyone unlucky enough to live anywhere in the vicinity of modern agriculture. We have a growing... Read more ›
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Inside This Book (learn more)
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
modern meat, intensive fish farming, industrial animal operations, industrial hog facilities, industrial animal facilities, vegan extremists, liquefied manure, industrial animal production, manure lagoons, industrial poultry, confinement buildings, hog operations, hog waste, hog factories, confinement operations, hog farming, confinement facilities, animal farming, hog industry, tail biting, hog manure, battery cages
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
North Carolina, United States, Niman Ranch, New York, Maligned of Meats, The Un-sacred, Bill Niman, Answering Obstacles, Department of Agriculture, Rick Dove, Bobby Kennedy, Whistle Stop Tour, University of Wisconsin, Finding the Right Foods, Clean Water Act, South Dakota, Neuse River, Bit About Fish, Smithfield Foods, Pig's Life, Animal Welfare Institute, European Union, Door Closed, World War, San Francisco
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