Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series) [Paperback]

Craig Luebben (Author)

Book Description

Series: The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series | Publication Date: February 28, 2006

This is a rock climbing instructional book. Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he has taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into "Rock Climbing Anchors". This 2007 entry in the "Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series", for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.

Editorial Reviews

Review

"... an insight into what it takes to minimize risk and maximize safety in the sport" -- East Oregonian

About the Author

Craig Luebben has been guiding professionally for more than twenty-five years. The author of Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills and other titles, he has written product reviews for Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines. He currently serves on the board of the AMGA.

Product Details

• Paperback: 256 pages
• Publisher: Mountaineers Books (February 28, 2006)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1594850062
• ISBN-13: 978-1594850066
• Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 6.8 x 0.6 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (22 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #65,673 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #8 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Rock Climbing
  • #75 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Mountain Climbing

More About the Author

Discover books, learn about writers, read author blogs, and more.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

20 of 20 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Best Anchors Book on the Market!!!!, February 11, 2007

By 

climbing prof - See all my reviews

This review is from: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series) (Paperback)

Wow!!! That was literally the first word that popped into my head as I started reading this book. The number and quality of photos BLOWS away any other comparable book. It looks like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it THE BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations. As we all know, "a picture is worth a thousand words." And, in this case, a picture could be worth your life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below:

- Luebben's mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging.
- He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces.
- There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations.
- Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings.
- Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations.
- All of the above factors make Luebben's book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market.
- According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben's experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps - that's pretty cool!

Bottom line...even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Comprehensive and current!, June 9, 2007

By 

David G. Lottmann "AMGA TRSM" (North Conway, NH USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

Amazon Verified Purchase

This review is from: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series) (Paperback)

Very current and well organized book! Craig Luebben has obviously absorbed the new anchoring concepts that have cropped up recently and has helped me understand the advantages and disadvantages to each new method. A better book in my opinion than John Long's new anchor book. Nicely illustrated and un-biased, this is the book I am recommending to my immediate/advanced clients. -Dave Lottmann, EMS Climbing Guide

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Best book on anchors, May 12, 2008

By 

B. Olsen - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series) (Paperback)

I've been working my way into lead climbing and this is my favorite book on climbing anchors. After taking many classes and climbing with "old schoolers", the book really solidified what I had already learned and taught me many new modern techniques and "tricks". I also appreciate that the book presents the science behinds all the various anchor setups. Although there are hundreds of B&W photos, on occasion they are hard to decipher when showing complex setups. Climbing Anchors (second edition) by Long and Gaines is also an excellent book and covers the same material. Having read both has helped me tremendously!