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The climate at the Grand Canyon varies with both the season and the altitude. Although most people picture the canyon as being in barren desert, in fact both the north and south rims are set in cool, high forests. The North Rim, the higher of the two at eight thousand feet, receives so much snow that its completely cut off all winter, typically between late October and early May. Nights there remain distinctly chilly at the start and end of each season, and only between June and August do normal daytime temperatures rise above 70°F (21°C).
The South Rim is a thousand feet lower, which makes enough of a difference for the visitor facilities to remain open year-round. Temperatures still drop well below freezing at night between late October and April, however, so driving conditions can be treacherous, with occasional road closures, and the upper portions of hiking trails may be dangerously icy. Only between May and September can you expect daytime highs above 70°F (21°C).
The Inner Canyon is a very different proposition. At river level, almost five thousand feet below the South Rim, thermometer readings in excess of 100°F (38°C) are recorded on most days between late May and early September, and its unlikely to drop below 70°F (21°C) even at night. Winter temperatures are a little cooler than you might expect, because so little direct sun manages to reach the bottom of the canyon, but it very seldom freezes down there, and December highs remain well over 50°F (10°C).
Precipitation is seldom severe enough to spoil a visit; the greatest risk of heavy rain comes in August, when afternoon thunderstorms sweep in (and can create localized flash floods), but theyre spectacular to watch and normally blow over fast. However, it has to be said that at any time of year you may turn up and find the canyon invisible beneath a layer of cloud or fog, a problem exacerbated by the sulfurous emissions pumped out by the Navajo Generating Station, seventy miles upriver at Page.
WHEN TO GO
Theres no definitive answer as to which is the best season to visit. Summer on the South Rim can be murderously crowded and, for hikers especially, uncomfortably hot, so if you have the choice, and you plan to spend a lot of time out on the trails, spring and fall are preferable. Thats less of an issue on the North Rim, which receives far fewer visitors, and stays significantly cooler. In winter, the scope for outdoor activities is greatly reduced, and the North Rim is closed altogether, but the South Rim is transformed into a haven of peace and tranquility. In terms of aesthetics, the canyon can look radiant, flecked with snow, on a crisp winters day; alive with color when the cactuses and wildflowers blossom in the spring; and suffused with a golden glow in fall, as the trees close to rim level start to turn.
WHAT TO BRING
Whatever time of year you visit, you can expect to need warm clothing, especially for the evenings, and something waterproof to keep off sudden rains. Temperatures vary so much, and so rapidly, that it makes sense to dress in layers. Detailed advice on what to bring if youre hiking appears on p.210, and if youre rafting on p.253. Otherwise, if youre touring by car, and just sightseeing without strenuous physical activity, no specialist equipment is necessary. Be sure, however, that you have adequate protection from the sun, including a broad-brimmed hat, sunblock and sunglasses.
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