Cape Town and the Western Cape coastal belt have a Mediterranean climate (contrary to expectations, it's not tropical) and the warm dryish summers are balanced by cool wet winters. Cape Town is a windy city and it can gust throughout the year; although seasons are reasonably well defined, it has a notoriously changeable climate. Come prepared for hot days in winter and cold snaps in summer: pack at least one short-sleeved garment during the cooler months and a jumper and jacket whatever time of year you come.
For sun and swimming, the best time to come is from October to mid-December and mid- January to Easter,when it's light till well into the evening and there's an average of ten hours of sunshine a day. During the Christmas month (mid-December to mid-January), Cape Town becomes congested as the nation takes its annual seaside holiday. On the other hand this is major party time: the annual minstrel carnival and the Mother City Queer Project, a gay extravanganza, are staged during the festive season, while the Summer Sunset Concert season in Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens also starts its four-month run in December.
Despite its shorter daylight hours, the autumn period, from April to mid-May, has a lot going for it: the south-easter (see box) has dropped but air temperatures remain pleasantly warm and the light is sharp and bright. For similar reasons the spring month of September can be very agreeable, with the added attraction that following the winter rains the peninsula tends to be at its greenest, with much of the fynbos (see p.98) in flower. Although spells of heavy rain occur in winter (June and July), it tends to be relatively mild, with temperatures rarely falling below 6°C. Glorious sunny days with crisp blue skies are common, and you won't see bare wintry trees either: indigenous vegetation is evergreen and gardens continue to flower. It's in July that the first migrating whales begin to appear along the Cape Peninsula they stay till the end of November.
The Cape Doctor
The southeaster, the cool summer wind that blows in across False Bay, forms a major obsession for Capetonians. Its fickle moods can singlehandedly determine what kind of day you're going to have, and when it gusts at over 60kph you won't want to be outdoors, let alone on the beach. Conversely, its gentler incarnation as the so-called Cape Doctor brings welcome relief on humid summer days, and lays the famous cloudy tablecloth on top of Table Mountain.
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